Topics created by MortarArt

@MortarArt said in Emergency stop without input:

I'm curious how that works.

error correction

@MortarArt said in Emergency stop without input:

I'll update the firmware and see how I go.

If you update your firmwares, don't forget to update the panel due firmware as well.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_PanelDue

Ok, so I just recalled that my plan was not to do a 'sensorless home', but to travel backwards for the full length of the axis, and assume the axis is at zero because of stalling. Just a small FYI.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5467974 - initial design, with a copy-pasted preamble from this forum post. Bill of materials, basic instructions and STL of basic tool dimensions is included.

@mortarart Add or increase the "S" parameter in your M570. Use with caution but if a genuine fault is unlikely to be a fire hazard, then try something like 600 (10 minutes) or even higher

When using a C parameter, the B value you need for RRF in M305 or M308 is the reciprocal of the B value given by the SRS calculator, not the Beta value.

@dc42 Thanks for the clarification! I'd forgotten how to go between the two.

@MortarArt e.g.: 1 / 0.0002324878438 = 4301 which is the value the RRF configuration tool gives for the B parameter.

Use M308 if you are using RRF 3.x. M305 is for RRF 1.x and 2.x, and is deprecated in 3.x.

Ian

@o_lampe in most circumstances producing the mould is expensive, but I feel like we're getting to the point with "reprap" type CNCs that alu moulds can be made by people with relatively cheap tools. At least that's the avenue the cooperative (Rethink Recycling) that I'm working with in Melbourne is going down.

Agreed with the above regarding mould cycle times and things like that. Definitely not an ideal solution, but more of a hack for hobbyists, who might want a really high spec plastic part say for machine construction.

The only other thing to beware of is that the motor is kept below the speed it can start instantly from.

If it stalls or "slips" at above that speed, it may never restart, as the acceleration ramps that allow higher speed only occur when the control system starts & stops the motor.

@MortarArt, do you plan to connect three steppers in series to a single duet driver output?

In this case, you one to shut the current of one stepper of the three you just need to short it two coils, letting the current bypassing it.

There are issues with connecting/disconnecting coils under power but I think that shorting/unshorting one of the tree in series is safe and doesn't create voltage spikes(?). Others with more experience may comment.

Just make sure not to short all three steppers and the same time since it will short the Duet's output and may damager it.

You also want to run everything in 24V and limit the speed of your Z.

@MortarArt Maybe interference? It's a tough one to diagnose, and as far as I know, no one else has reported anything similar.

Ian

Primarily to make use of E-waste motors.

Here's my end of print tune.

;Play a little beep beep beep to show print ended. M400 ; Clear queue again before jingle G4 S1 M300 P250 S750 G4 P251 M300 P200 S1250 G4 P201 M300 P250 S750 G4 P251 M300 P200 S1250 G4 P201 M300 P250 S2500 G4 P251 M300 P150 S2000 G4 P151 M300 P150 S2500 G4 P151 M300 P350 S3700 G4 P351

So I thought I'd solved this issue, because I restarted a few jobs, after finding an M83 command in the resume.g file, which I've subsequently commented out.

But it's back. And I've tried a few things now to see if I can get around it. Pause job, M82, resume job. Cancel job, M82, resume job.

Mind you this is on my old Duet 0.6, using FW 1.18.1

I'll update further if I figure out what's happening.

It would be better to solder a piece of fairly thick copper wire on top of that loose PCB trace, wrapped round the VIN post at the end.

I suppose I could just use the programmable fan outputs to trigger SSRs.

I've been using the Meanwell SE-600-24 for a few days now, turned down to 22.5v, and it doesn't drop below 22.1v with everything going. Additionally, I'm assured it has a cut off built in at 125% of it's rated wattage, so I believe it will stop itself before it blows.

Yeah fair enough. Adjusting the B value has resulted in reducing the temperature that the heatbed is actually outputting. That's a good enough solution for this for me. Hoping I won't have to do it with future printers.