Topics created by Pyper

@Pyper yeah and you can see a pretty neon-ish/pink leaning light/muted color palette on the print sample (-:

@o_lampe I like the hash printer gantry you build a lot. But I know that people who are looking for speed like the doubled torque of dual motors per axis, so each design has its place and its space.

@rjenkinsgb
Lord have mercy I am embarrassed to say the problem was in my config.g file. I think I copy/pasted someone else's BLTouch settings and didn't update them for my own printer. It is working better now! Using this guide to set it up:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

That applies to the magnetic filament monitor, but I don't think it applies to the simple presence detection sensors which function as simple switches.

@phaedrux
Can you try the other drivers on the Duex? Change the M584 to match the drivers being used. Is it all Duex drivers or just 8 and 9?

How do I do that? I thought I was supposed to be using drive5 and drive6, no idea why it is on 8 and 9. Not sure if that will make a difference.

Wait- I see what you are saying. In config.g.. I changed it to 5 and 6, will run tests.. Thank you

How do you have the power and ground for the Duex connected?

The same as in the picture of the link you sent, 14G jumper wires from the power in block of the Duet to the power in block of the Duex (checked for polarity)

@pyper My NEMA 23 steppers have 10 inch wires coming out of the stepper instead of a connector which I just soldered to that wire. I believe the connector you are referring to though is a JST connector. This stuff is 20 awg and might work better for a NEMA 17 with JST connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/TUOFENG-Colors-Lights-Extension-Electrical/dp/B0793MSGYZ/

@droftarts
That makes sense, thank you!

@phaedrux, conductor count is actually quite common and the same for the vast majority of wires. When you get into a larger qty of individual strands you are getting into specialty wire such as silicone insulated or test leads or some such. Marine wire has a common higher strand count to make it more flexible. The 'standard' is 7 conductors and the gauge of those conductors changes to achieve the overall wire gauge.
The other thing that plays a roll in the over heating is the contact resistance between the two connectors. Since these connectors are not spec'd to fit together, there is a good chance that you have only a tiny contact surface which then generates heat. Add to that the use of chinesium and you never know what you got 🙂

@nurgelrot said in Duet Web control over the internet? Webcam guide?:

Don't rely on port obscurity to keep anything out.

True enough - but in the limited case of an external port being forwarded to port 80 on the Duet controller the risk may be judged (by the OPs IT folks) to be "reasonably contained" in the sense that what is available to be exploited is basically the Duet API's.

For sure not bullet proof and agree VPN is a better option. It just depends on what's at risk and how risk averse one is.

@droftarts
Ahh, I see you wired up directly to the switch.
I was probing through the 3-wire jack. I guess they didn't even run traces for NC.
Will check on that.TronXY_X5SA_X_endstop.jpg

@pyper That's good to hear. Thinking about it, RRF 2.0 probably doesn't support DWC 2.0.7. My bad!

Ian

My TronXY X5S managed it's first print the other day. Not perfect, but certainly not bad. Frame wobbles a bit, so not printing too fast (50mm/s printing, 100mm/s travel). Stiffening up the frame with some corner brackets would definitely help. Tuning retraction (currently 3.3mm) and pressure advance (none used atm, and it's got a 850mm long Bowden tube) would also help. I may investigate direct drive extruder replacements. The bed is a bit warped at 60C (and it's only mounted on 3 points), so may have to change the supplied fibreglass (I think) surface for something more substantial. I also had to change the heater block for an E3D V6 block, as the original thermistor died and I only had E3D thermistors to replace it. It fit perfectly, with the added advantage of a silicone heater sock. Time to tidy up the wiring!
Next on the list is to have a separate 24V PSU for the heated bed, as it takes 15 minutes to get to 60C on 12V.

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Ian