Best posts made by Surgikill

I figured it out. I was poking around and saw that somebody else had an issue with the electrolytic capacitor and how it had lifted off the board. I re-soldered the capacitor down onto the board and thought I fixed it. It seemed to work, but once the board heated up from the residual heat I was still having issues.

I decided to look at the IR LED's through my phone camera, and only one was lighting up. As I pressed on the unlit LED, it lit up. I re-soldered the unlit LED, and now they both light up, and the LED doesn't lift off the broken solder joint as the board heats up.

If anybody else out there has issues with their boards and wants to check that the LED is working, look through your phone camera in the dark. It should show up as a pink/purple light on the screen.

I figured it out. It's crashing the head on the X-axis due to the probe point for the leadscrew being slightly off. I just need to adjust that.

@Phaedrux Added M558 with just the H parameter to my G29 macro and now it works perfectly. Thank you.

@Exerqtor I'm still waiting on more tests. My money is on the stealthchop issue. Apparently around 300rpm is where the problem arises. I'll do some quick math to see if that is around the 8mm/s where he was experiencing drop off.

@wilriker Would help if we knew exactly what was going on.

Also, if all is he looking to do is change power at the heater block he can change the PWM duty cycle and get the same results. If he's looking to increase power draw on a FET or something then he would need some power resistors.

@mrehorstdmd @zapta @mendenmh @mwolter @arhi I just replaced the Igus bushings with the LM16UU I ordered. No more issues. Now I have no idea what to do with all these Igus bushings I have.

@DIY-O-Sphere Okay, this is what ended up working.

; Heaters
; Bed
M308 S0 P"e6temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 R4700 B3950 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H7 C"!exp.heater7" T0                           ; create bed heater output on exp.heater7 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H7 A223.1 C298.7 D1.2 V22.8 B0            ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H7
M143 H7 S80                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 80C

The naming conventions for pins and thermistor inputs, as well as having the number offset for them seems like an oversight.

Hi all,

I've been looking at purchasing some shielded cable for certain steppers and components on my machine, but it seems that a lot of the stuff I have come across is garbage. Either CCA wire, or super stiff jackets.

I was digging around on mcmaster and I came across these options:

https://www.mcmaster.com/wire/number-of-wires~4/wire-gauge~20/wire-gauge~22/wire-gauge~24/flexibility~continuous-flex/

I'm specifically looking at these two, in 24 and 20 gauge.
https://www.mcmaster.com/8097T26/
https://www.mcmaster.com/8097T28/

Has anybody tried these? They are the cheapest on there, but look like they are solid wire with actual copper conductors.

@tekkydave Yep, mine is fake as shit. Looks like I need to get some better ones.

Yeah, definitely my Z-axis. I ran some prints and changed my pause and resume to not lift Z and the indentation is gone. Looks like I need to get some pillow block bearings for the leadscrews and new couplers.

@TRATOON That fixed it, thanks.

I used out2 because that's what I used I guess. Documentation said they were both good for fans, and the fan that I have is a 2 wire fan, so I didn't want to take up the more versatile output with a shitty fan. I might change it over to a 4 wire noctua. Need to see.

@Phaedrux I have a wire loom and there might be a possibility of it pushing down on the print head, I can try to relieve it as much as possible.

I think it's the linear rail though. I pulled it off and took the carriage off the rail. Laying it on edge on a piece of ground granite, one side has a large bend in the center, I can fit a 4 thou piece of paper under it with room to spare. If I flip it over and put it on the same spot on the granite and try the paper again, it will only fit under the rail at the ends, and not in the middle.

@fcwilt underneath the bed heater in direct contact with it. Will help with power consumption and excess heat in my workshop room.

@T3P3Tony Yea I had a stack of orings in there temporarily until I could get a mount drawn up. There was plenty of clearance between the contacts on the board and the hemera.

Hello,

I would like to see M144 to behave similarly to M568, where 0 is off, 1 is standby, and 2 is active. Alternatively, just allow an active and off state, and ditch the standby state, as dc42 mentioned here: https://forum.duet3d.com/post/268960

It just seems like it should be good practice to control all heating elements in the same way and unify the way they are controlled, instead of having one type of heater be controlled by states (M568), and another type of heater be controlled by temperature values (M144 S-273.1).

Hi all.

I have been using the differential IR probe for a while now and it has been working flawlessly. However, it has started to act up and I am not sure why. I changed my nozzle out to a bondtech CHT nozzle, re-adjusted the z offset, and now I have issues where the IR probe will not trigger. I re-ran a Z calibration to be sure, and I had some odd readings. With the heated bed off I was getting consistent readings between 1.55 and 1.56mm. I then turned the heated bed on, and as the temperature of the bed climbed, the z offset started to decrease. At 120C the z offset was reading 0.95, and I was getting some instances where the bed was crashing into the nozzle after the probe failed to trigger. I now have issues with printing because the probe will not trigger before it hits the nozzle. I have some pictures showing that the probe is definitely not too far away from the nozzle. I removed the probe and looked for physical damage on it and have found none. This issue was happening on RRF 3.2.2 and 3.3 (I updated in case maybe it was a bug).

The heated bed is a high temp e3d heated bed with borosilicate glass. I have placed a piece of matte black paper between the glass and the heated bed.

Could it be noise on the electronics? I've had issues with that before. Maybe I can change the mode of the IR sensor.

Any ideas on what the issue would be? I would like to continue using this probe.

@Notepad I have a hemera and notice the same issues. I'm almost wondering if PA needs to be tuned at multiple hotend flowrates and then some linear interpolation applied to get the correct PA for the current flow rate

@fcwilt Thomas Sanladerer did a review of the v1 and I think there were some issues with the connector. V2 looks like it has fixed that with POGO pins, but not sure how well those pogo pins can carry the required amperage.

I've thought about getting the system but I could never really justify it or find a use for it. Maybe if you have multiple tools and want to tinker it would be good, but I always just wanted to stick it on a toolchanger instead to save myself time.

@fcwilt the gantry can contribute or offset the readings. Aluminum extrusion tolerance is terrible, straightness of 0.0125" per foot. Hence why measuring at 5 points and then assuming that those points will simultaneously be the highest and lowest measured points isn't really the right way to go about it. Even measuring the flatness of the build surface while on the machine isn't really correct, because you don't know if it's your gantry or your plate causing the inconsistencies.

If you are printing at 0.2mm layer height, there is a pretty large variation of z height you can get away with. As you try to increase resolution the problems will begin to show themselves. This is why mesh compensation is used.

@edsped Scanning probe would be good. I guess I could have one toolhead with a scanning probe and a euclid probe, and use either depending on the build surface, then do the rest with a fly-rrf-36.

@fcwilt Although, I do like that most of the connectors are along the bottom edge, and the stepper is along the top. Connectors along the sides have been a real pain for me designing slim toolheads so I can increase tool capacity.