The firmware is open source, it's at https://github.com/dc42/PanelDueFirmware.

@Dougal1957:

@dintid:

@Dougal1957:

There is another thread in here somewhere were he does say that

Ok. I've tried to find any information before posting here.

have a look at https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=3866#p33851 It took a while to find as well its fairly low down on the first page i think

ohhh!:
Can I update the PanelDue firmware from the DWC yet?

No. It will eventually be possible, but only for PanelDue v3 control boards.

Any other advantages to the v3 board over the v1.1?

It's faster, which makes the redrawing a bit snappier It can be connected to a generation 2 Duet revision 1.01 or later using just a 10-way ribbon cable, which is easier to make than the 4-way cable - but then the cable length is more limited It has more flash memory and RAM, but we're not making use of that yet, except to allow OEMs to have a custom splash screen. IMO it's not worth upgrading an older PanelDue at present, but that may eventually change if we find that we can't fit new features into the memory of the older versions.

There are probably a bunch of modules out there that would work. One of the most "zero setup" with which I have hands on experience is:

http://vorpalrobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vorpal_Factory_Paired_Bluetooth_Modules

Pre-Paired at 38.400 baud (so change your Panel via the setup tab, and your printer via M575).

I believe that the BT module positioned at the printer would work from the PanelDue connector on the printer, with appropriate cable. The module on the PanelDue would also work, but SOMETHING has to provide 5V regulated power to both the BT module and the PanelDue.

I can see a million reasons NOT to do this… already mentioned above... however, if you do wish to pursue it, the above BT modules should be easy to try.

Status Update: fixed

So hit the R4 and R5 2k2 resistors, D3 sb diode, and output pins with soldering iron. Worked for awhile and then stopped transmitting again, like before. I then removed these resistors and diode and then bridged over where the 2k2 resistors were and voila, PanelDue is working.

So I tested the 2k2 resistors and they are ok, however SB diode seems to be the culprit in this case.

I'll keep you posted if this arises again.
Many thanks for your help
-Drew

I haven't noticed changing brightness makes it different. It's still the same buzzing no matter what level of brightness is set. It seams that it makes this sound when LCD shows dark pixels (most covers backlight). So most noticable it will be, when showing all black screen.

0.01? Are you saying you need 10 microns adjustment resolution on your first layer? Maybe if your first layer is 50 microns thick… I can see the change of 50 microns per babystep with the current setup at 0.3mm first layer height but much less and you won't know if its getting better or not unless you press it 3-4 times, in which case might as well leave it set to 50 microns.

Just my twopence worth. If its configurable I'm good with that.

If you mean this button in yellow, its runs the bed calibration.

There is also a thread about using 7" CPLD touch panels with PanelDue.

yes it is now on the GitHub for the panelDue GitHub https://github.com/dc42/PanelDueFirmware/tree/master/Release/Edge

They are the ones with 7.0C in the titles

Doug

I downloaded it correctly, as is the right size,
I tried again this morning with the same file and hopefully is all ok now.
Did the same thing as yesterday… maybe is just the bossa program being funny sometimes.
Thank you for the answer anyway.

@dc42:

I was thinking of displaying the first few macros only if there are 2 or fewer tools defined when using the 5" or 7" screen, and only if there is just 1 tool defined when using the 4.3" screen.

Ah OK. That works for me.

Superb. I'll get some pennies together and place an order.

@dc42:

PanelDue provides 3 estimated of how much longer the print will take, just like the web interface. One is based on the layer count, another is based on what proportion of the file has been processed, and one is based on what proportion of the total filament needed has been consumed. So in your image, the estimate based on the later count was 9 hours 31 minutes.

After searching, I finally found this thread. Please add this information to the wiki. The display is really confusing otherwise. (I was trying to figure out why a single layer would take almost as long as the entire print, and how filament was being measured in minutes/seconds.)

Thank you Filastruder for the quick turn around. I received my screen yesterday and it works fine.

Another question - kinda related but not. I unfortunately "took out" my mosfet on FAN0 and am trying to remap it to FAN1 for my print cooling. I found a thread on how to do this but the "FAN" button on the screen wont operate the fan. I can control it through the web interface on the "FAN2" slider, and I "think" I have it mapped to the toolhead - but im unsure.
; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F1; Define tool 0

If this is the correct code and it is in fact mapped correctly, what can I do to get rid of the "fan" button on my display and put the working "fan" button up there? I was hoping that once I remapped the fan that the button would also be remapped.

Okay, Thank you David.

It's not recommended, as with any other electronic equipment that isn't specifically designed to be connected or disconnected while powered.

Thanks for the info. The issue was with the panel. I was able to press the ribbon cable on the back of the TFT and the lines went away.

I guess I didn't realized I'd changed it from default? In my head, you always have a hotend cooler, so making it fan0 would make sense there. Not all printers have a filament cooler, or possibly more than one, so having them be 1+ seemed logical.

But good to know the standard, not hard to switch back around. Thanks