Thank you both for the prompt reply and info. Much appreciatted

C1 is intentionally not fitted.

I am glad you found the problem. Soldering the side-looking IR receiver can indeed be a problem because of the unusual location of the pads, and that is the first thing we check when a sensor doesn't respond to a nearby surface.

@engikeneer - thank you that's very helpful. I did read the manual about taper - but didn't quite get it - but do now thanks!

Yes - I'd prefer to only have the bed compensation applied on the first few layers and then let whatever slop is left get melted into subsequent layers. I'm certainly not printing anything for aerospace - so aside from being dimensionally in the ballpark and staying stuck down - I'm not worried.

@Phaedrux - thanks - I read it but didn't understand the parts I mentioned in my first post.

I'm going to go back and re-read now...

I have beed inspecting and inspecting and not seen anything indicating cracks or movement.

That seems to have got it up an running again. I have probably closed a crack somwhere.

If it stops workkng again I may let a friend of mine re-solder all componets with one of those soldering heat guns.

That may invalidate the warranty, I dont know but may be worth a try.

Inthink we can close this thread.

Thank you for all help!

Do any of the bits and bobs on the IR board look like they've been moved out of place at all? 14mm trigger height seems odd.

If you have a plane piece of paper on the bed does it behave differently?

@Veti Ok, thank you.

@neckbreaker
it would still be interesting how you would get the mini ir to change to the digital mode on a duet2.
just out of curiosity.

On first impression, switching to a glass surface made everything better, almost perfect. It created some adhesion problems, but those are easier to fix.

Thanks for your advice, guys!

you could do it via filement settings

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Filaments

create one for like
pla on buildtrack
and
pla on painters tape

add the settings in the filament config
and add
M703
to your start g code

Thanks for your reply.
I tried connecting to 5v, still same problem, no flashing on start.

Since it's a clone, now I believe it's faulty.
alt text

@Phaedrux It says that in the Gcode dictionary, I had to look it up!

@alexic said in IR sensor Z probe on RRF3 config issues:

@droftarts I am not using that comand, it was there from a configuration file example.

I was explaining the error message. But be careful when using someone else’s config, it won’t always suit your machine, and may cause problems. Make sure you understand every command, and use the Gcode dictionary to help you.

Ian

@dc42 said in Can I use an IR sensor as the X and Y endstop?:

There are much simpler Hall effect endstops available, all you need is a 3-pin IC and a capacitor.

Oh wow, I was not aware of using hall effect sensors for endstops I just googled it. lol That looks like a great way to go. I see a lot of them on amazon with led and resistor on board already. I dont wanna have to solder pc boards so i will try some of these pre made ones

It's right where you linked to.

@Phaedrux Thanks for your very detailed explanation and help. With the mentioned adjustments the problem does not occur anymore.

Many thanks for your support 👍

@droftarts Not done the Z probe trigger yet, I'll make that next on the list. Calibrating the extruder was on my list though but thanks for the reminder. I'll use the forum for any further questions, though I think I'm very near done so if there is anything else I'll probably find the topic with a search. Thanks for everything Ian, I am very grateful and you learnt a little yourself too 🙂

@Saurabh Please start a new thread.

Hello how did you calibrate your mini Ir sensor

Its ok, got it sorted, had it wired wrong.

For reference, the wiring from left to right with the LEDs at the bottom is Voltage, Ground, Signal

How's this?

https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/