@phaedrux Thanks, I will try that later on after coffee!

I can see what is read as e2_stop on the Duet schematic is SG_TST on the pinout of the ribbon connector on the duex5 schematic. Interestingly although this is labelled this appears to be left floating with the label not appearing elsewhere on the duex5 schematic. The only thing that comes close is each motor driver chip has a pin labelled SG_TST but according to the schematic this is purposely unconnected. Something seems amiss here, why label an input/output on a schematic and then leave it floating? Better to explicitly label it as not connected and leave the label off?

Edit: changing to deux.... worked. Just had another issue that the A axis is no longer homing as expected. Maybe todo with changing to fff mode from CNC. Will hold off marking this complete for a while.

You could gather an M122 if you haven't power cycled more than once to see if there's something useful in there for use to see.

For monitoring there are a few options lists here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/Community_Projects

@cncmodeller said in Home to Z max but also probe z min?:

Unfortunately if you constrain the free end your going to get z wobble, especially on a long lead screw like this as they are never perfectly straight.

As I said what I have found for my printers is that constraint works better but I have kinetic bed mounts which allow for some lateral motion from the lead screws so perhaps that is why it works in my case.

That said my most recent printer was recently converted to 3 Z steppers using belt drive and based on my experience with that printer I believe I will be using that approach for all new printers if applicable.

@psyblue thanks for confirming!

Well the point would be to gather an M122 report when you are unable to connect so we could see the status of the wifi server.

@deckingman, Oh come on .... be nice .....
I did mention the link to the page where @dc42 specifically links to Kenable and provides the 'sort-of' specs so it wasn't a case of "hey, isn't that great, I can get my cables from here, thanks a million Ian, I couldn't have survived the day without that information". I was looking for more relatable 'specs' rather than the somewhat imprecise use of 'big printer' and 'small printer'.
I did go to Kenable, made an account and tried to order cables but didn't get past the shipping issue. I probably wasted just as much time that I won't get back .....
At least I did acknowledge your post rather than not replying to it.

Oh, I don't know if you remember or not but not too long ago I supported you in your discussion on the forum about weird Duet3 issues you had and that was probably more than 5 minutes of my life that I gave to you ..... so let's be nice and civilized.

If you like, I will gush all over the place about the help you have been in the past if that makes you feel more appreciated.

Lastly, neither one of us is here to count every minute of help received or given. It's supposed to be a forum for exchange of ideas and help.

@droftarts Ah yes thanks a lot man! It was i think the editor! A little bit of reading would have saved me so much time haha. Nevermind have a great day!

@o_lampe said in Standalone Config Snippets:

@deckingman said in Standalone Config Snippets:

Two lugs only give me 4 possibilities. One switch triggered is hot end A, the other switch triggered is hot end B, both switches triggered are hot end C and no switches triggered means no hot end fitted.

Is it possible to run a trigger macro with two inputs? Or do you have to read 'the other' trigger inside the macro and use 'if' conditions to finally start the right macro?

I haven't actually implemented this "hot end sensing" system on my printer yet. The hot end mounts have the lugs but I haven't yet fitted the switches to the carriage. However, I plan to use the same system that I use with the joystick jog control that I have fitted. This uses 4 micro switches and gives me movement in 8 directions depending on which combination of either one or two switches are closed. There is also a button that when pressed, gives my long moves (about 20mm) and when not pressed gives me short moves (about 0.5mm). So 8 move directions and two "speeds" (actually distances) giving 16 combinations from 5 switches. Essentially it's a single macro which uses conditional gcode to sense the status of the 5 switches. It runs a loop and repeats as long as one or more switches are closed. Here it is in it's entirety which should show how it works.

; ******Trigger 5 - Joystick lefgt,right, forward or backwards ******** ; IO Pin to switch connections J5=left, J6=Right, J7=Forward, J8=Backward if state.status != "processing" ; make sure that a print is NOT running G91; Set relative M400; wait for any moves to finish G1 F3000 ; set feedrate to 100mm/sec M118 S"Trigger 5 - Joystick" while sensors.gpIn[5].value=0 | sensors.gpIn[6].value=0 | sensors.gpIn[7].value=0 | sensors.gpIn[8].value=0 if sensors.gpIn[5].value=0; joystick left if sensors.gpIn[7].value=0 ; joystick left and forwards M400 echo "Left and forward" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X-20 U-20 A-20 Y-20 V-20 B-20 else G1 X-0.5 U-0.5 A-0.5 Y-0.5 V-0.5 B-0.5 elif sensors.gpIn[8].value=0; joystick left and backwards M400 echo "Left and backwards" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X-20 U-20 A-20 Y20 V20 B20 else G1 X-0.5 U-0.5 A-0.5 Y0.5 V0.5 B0.5 else ; joystick left only M400 echo "Left" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X-20 U-20 A-20 else G1 X-0.5 U-0.5 A0.5 elif sensors.gpIn[6].value=0; joystick right if sensors.gpIn[7].value=0 ; joystick right and forwards M400 echo "Right and forward" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X20 U20 A20 Y-20 V-20 B-20 else G1 X0.5 U0.5 A0.5 Y-0.5 V-0.5 B-0.5 elif sensors.gpIn[8].value=0; joystick right and backward M400 echo "Right and backwards" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X20 U20 A20 Y20 V20 B20 else G1 X0.5 U0.5 A0.5 Y0.5 V0.5 B0.5 else ; joystick right only M400 echo "Right" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 X20 U20 A20 else G1 X0.5 U0.5 A0.5 elif sensors.gpIn[7].value=0 ; joystick forwards only M400 echo "Forward" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 Y-20 V-20 B-20 else G1 Y-0.5 V-0.5 B-0.5 elif sensors.gpIn[8].value=0 ; joystick backward only M400 echo "Backwards" if sensors.gpIn[4].value=0 ; check for long move button press G1 Y20 V20 B20 else G1 Y0.5 V0.5 B0.5 else break else break

@markjf
I just read a test regarding LDO 0.9 stepper and overheating problems with TMC drivers (not 2209) in the Prusa forum.
They compared them with 'moon' steppers and these seem to match better, with better print results.
The thread was 50 pages long, so please forgive me, if I got the conclusion wrong 😕
Here's the article

Please give us more details on the relay.
Show a photo of how you have it wired.
What firmware version?
Share your config.g.
Is there any voltage at the bed terminals?

@tomasl

I had issues trying to set a static IP as well. I finally got it to work with some suggestions. The steps seems to be very picky. See this thread,

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/22703/duet-3d-wifi-set-ip-address/7?_=1621469740585

@phaedrux that worked. Thanks again.

Thank you that fixed it, I must have missed I needed to move my M350 and M92 commands after my M584.
I will look at my M593 and fix that, I am at least printing again and that is the important part.

@psyblue the main change between bootloader 2.2 and 2.3 is that in 2.2 if it didn't get a satisfactory frequency reading within a certain time, its reset the processor to start again. In 2.3 it just keeps on taking readings, in effect allowing the crystal oscillator as long as it needs to stabilise.

Now working!. I think the problem was this: mapping the y-steppers to drive 2 and z stepper to drive 1. In addition, the z motor is bigger and needs more amps to move.
The drive 0 was hotter than it´s neighbours allthough not in use. Maybe some damage?

@engikeneer Thank you so much. I will check the guide!!!

Guys , next beer i will spend.

@phaedrux will do, thank you for your help I appreciate it!

@lbi thoss cables are overkill. For power I suggest something like https://www.conrad.com/p/tru-components-1565746-speaker-cable-2-x-080-mm-red-black-100-m-1565746. For CAN you can use unshielded twisted pair, either single pair if you have just one tool board (so it can be at the end of the CAN bus), otherwise 2-pair such as Lapp 0035101.