@mudcruzr It was from 2.0 that shipped from the early backers. This command fixed it! Thanks!

thanks. :}

Thanks again. Coming from Marlin I'm still getting used to all this run time flexibility. I should have moved from Marlin long ago.

@phaedrux said in Motors at 24V, everything else at 12V?:

@cvmichael said in Motors at 24V, everything else at 12V?:

I don't understand how you do that?

The Duet switches PWM on the ground side, so the live side could be supplied independently.

I guess if you have a lot of hotends to modify it will be a toss up between the complexity of wiring, or simply replacing the hotend.

@gavatron3000 do you use a seperate inline fuse for the hotend?

Yes I have a seperate fuse on each rail voltage. I have 24v 12v and 5v on my machine for various things mainly because before I had a duet I used to run a ramps 12v setup from an ATX supply then when I upgraded to the duet I installed a DC to DC converter upto 24v so the stepper driver's were ran at what was recommended

@grizewald Probing routine: That makes a lot of sense for my setup, I think I'll use that pattern, Thx!

Well, thanks to @mrehorstdmd for the solution. I changed my M307 command to: M307 H2 A11 C99000 D2000 B1 which seemed to work. It started heating and didn't give me the error!

The unfortunate thing is that is blew my 500w power supply (whoops). That was more my error more than anything else as I should not have tried to run that power supply more than 80% of its rated wattage. Good thing I have fuses on all of the electronics so all I did was blow the power supply and not kill all of the other electronics 🙂

I'm going to put the original 300w power supply back on the main unit and get a second 450w power supply for the heaters (which is probably a bit safer anyway). The new power supply will arrive in the next couple of days and I'll post the results...

Perfect, in that case the I-Type profile wins out for me, for the slight increase in rigidity (5% according to what I can interpret from the specs).

@phaedrux said in 2nd Z Endstop Missing in RRF Config Tool:

1a. The configurator isn't perfect. It's basically just a working starting point. Manual editing of the config.g file ... will be needed.

Thanks a lot!! Makes a whole lot more sense.

1b. The BLTouch is quite reliable. Once it's configured and working it's a very simple mechanism in and of itself. Not much to fail.

Good to know, but I've seen people have them fail in various forums, and I doubt it's as reliable as a mechanical switch, so I'll stick with "mildly paranoid" a good attitude towards any electronics, particularly DIY setups, LOL.

Yes you can have a microswitch wired up and used as a backup emergency stop if you want. ... As a general trigger though it can be active at any time, and you can wire multiple switches together to trigger all of the axis if you wish. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_an_Emergency_Stop

Recall seeing that now, but haven't had time to read my way through ALL the good data on the Wiki, thx for the reference, I'll check it.

However, ... A safer and simpler approach the protect against the failure of a probe or switch during a homing move (which is really the only time when you're actively trying to go towards an axis limit) is to adjust the motor current down during a homing move so that even if the probe or endstop fails, the motor won't have enough force to damage anything. You can use a M915 command in the homing files to scale the current to a percentage before the move, and then return to normal after the moves are complete.

EXACTLY what I was looking for, that you can limit current is perfect.

Defining the U axis and endstops and then recombining them will be done in the homing files or bed.g.

*OK, got it, I think I know how to do it, if not ... 😁 *

Thx again!

@kenny66 said in Stepper choices for Maestro.:

The extruder steppers (for various reasons) will stall because they don't have enough torque to push the filament. I was curious if running a stepper constantly at it's edge of torque before a stall could possibly harm the Maestro? No matter what speed you're extruding the motors get very warm. If you try and push the speed over 20mm/s (if it doesn't stall) the motors will get to hot to hold a finger on for more than a second or two and you start getting Phase Disconnected errors, which we know was (in that firmware version) a catchall error that in this case was indicating that the TMC driver was overheating and briefly shutting off to protect itself.

StealthChop does not work at high speeds. Symptoms of running too fast for stealthChop include skipped steps, reports of short-to-ground, reports of phase disconnected, and drivers getting hotter than they do at lower speeds. Use the V parameter of M569 to restrict the maximum speed at which stealthChop is used.

Motor noise with TMC2208/2224 drivers seems to be a problem when high inductance motors are used. The 1.33A motors in my Ormerod, which is powered from 12V, are quiet in spreadCycle mode.

@dc42 said in Next generation DUET hardware:

The upload speed on the Duet 3 will be faster than Duet 2. I also hope to provide a modest speed improvement to file uploading on Duet 2, assuming a good wifi or Ethernet connection.

What speed do you expect? Have you already some tests?

@cesther It always used to be the case that one could move any axis before it had been homed. This meant that there was nothing to stop a gantry being moved outside it's normal limits by accidentally entering a wrong value. This was deemed as being potentially dangerous by some users - especially OEM manufactures and CNC users. So the firmware was changed to prohibit any moves until an axis has been homed.

This is a safety feature but it can be overridden either by using an S2 parameter in a specific move command or by putting M564 H0 at the end of config.g as a more "global" setting.

Once an axis has been homed, then any movement command will stop at the minimum and maximum values that have been defined for that axis. So for example if your gantry was sitting at 10mm away from zero and sent a command to move it 100mm towards zero, it would only move 10mm and stop. But if you use M564 H0 then whenever you turn on the machine, there is nothing to stop it acting on a command that could send the print head trying to go beyond the axis limits and crashing into the frame or worse.

Personally, I do use M564 H0 but I am experienced enough to understand the risks which I accept.

@burtoogle said in Bondtech BMG owners what are your accel and jerk settings?:

I don't think it is very noisy. The Titan I had before was much noisier, it went clack, clack all the time but the BMG is quiet.

That's exactly what I found too.

@will-baxter said in HomeZ:

G1 S1 X395 Y405 F1800 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)

If your end stops and origin are located at the bottom left I would expect these values to be negative rather than positive, since you want it to move towards 0.

In your home X it moves in the negative direction, so I think that's your issue. You'd have to change the direction of the next move which pulls away from the endstop abit before going back more slowly.

Make sense?

E0 connected heater is P1 cos P0 is bed heater. So yes, heater on E1 will be P2.
Are you sure your current heater (P1) is correctly defined in tool? Like M563 P0 D0 H1.
Attension! In M301, M303, M307, M563 heaters are H, in M305 they are P

That makes total sense, I figured it would be something simple and stupid. Thank you both very much gentlemen, I will change my code as suggested!

Yes sure, all temperature is OK and absolutely stable
A thing...
M109 not is configured, i don't use M109.

maybe for this?

Thank you for your attention! 🙂

I have it on my list to check the noise margin of the endstop inputs with and without the pull up resistor enabled, to see which is better overall.

Start with the recommended values here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance

It will depend on whether you have direct drive or bowden for how much you'll need.

My preferred way to calibrate it is to print a rectangle with normal slicer settings and then watch the print while increasing pressure advance slightly every few layers and noting the changes.

You may want to update to firmware 2.02 now that it's out.

Wanna build a delta for me?

HA!

That's a rig I would be hesitant to change ANYTHING as to alter those results.

Are you using mag-ball setup?