@toon said in Bed levelling using 2 independent Z motors:

I'm not sure about the other config on how to address the second Z motor and set all the parameters.
Can I do Znnn:nnn ? Or do I need to use an other char?

You only need to define which motors belong to your Z axis in M584. For everything else there is only one (logical) Z axis, so no need to duplicate anything.

@phaedrux Got it! Thank you so much for your prompt response!

This is strange. I turn on my printer last night and now G30 S-1 does report back a trigger height number.

@jeremy-watkins I just caught my mistake. Clearly, I didn't have enough sleep to see it last night, but my 5th line of code has X-07 instead of X207. Changing it resolved all my issues.

@skimmy I would like to have it 🙂 I have friends with smd soldering station and stuff and could try to fix it.

Fantastic discussion gentleman. I enjoyed reading this post and the thoughtful responses. I spent 1 year of my college time spent on electronics and computer repair. The information I learned was only the sugar in the cake. Without the remaining ingredients it only left me with basic electronics skills which in many cases is much more than the average person and I was able to take those skills along with automotive computer programming and apply it in years of custom building fuel injected hot rods and diagnosing them. Those years along with self taught fabrication led me to own a machine shop today. It’s hands on and yet I feel so lost in many ways with all these different motor applications. I can look at 4 photos of motors that look identical and everyone of them operates completely differently. How frustrating is that? .,And to further expand with hundreds of hours online studying I feel I barely grasp essential concepts. I too would love to delve into the use of bldc motors and I think that they do have some applications where they would be useful including direct drive spindle motors for various CNC operations. It’s been done, it’s being accomplished and even in 3D printing there are many using it for their x/y axis and yet very few discussions that make me comfortable in delving into experimentation. Almost as though it’s a secret recipe. Perhaps as much it is. I would like to utilize a bldc motor for a quick change mini mill, engraving spindle for a 3D printer project here but I fear I would delay completion of the project delving into learning what circuits, programming, and processes are required to successfully implement it besides I lack all the time necessary to experiment so not having a tried and true plug and play option is very discouraging. I agree that if you have the motors, they are free, and you have the time than why not experiment and see what you accomplish? And if so.., please share with the rest of us. 🙂

@phil-maddox Open your config files in a text editor and search for "bed" Eventually you'll find it.

I believe there was a change at some point where before only uppercase Gcodes were accepted, but now lower case is also accepted. Perhaps the error was there all along but was just being ignored before.

And PT100 2-wire can't be used with connectors? And 4-wire can be?

Remapping fans to spare heater channels is supported in firmware 2.02RC2. See the new A parameter of the M106 command. This is a temporary solution pending a more flexible configuration mechanism.

@mangy_dog Keenovo (which imho are the better product anyway) will do you a heater to your specs ie with the mounting holes in and will even put a hole in the centre so you can mount a temp sensor there. They will also do any type of temp sensor you wish in there heaters. If you go for an integrated temp sensor Keenovo always place it in the centre unless they are told otherwise.

Leave the M201 Z value alone but try 1400 for X and Y.

Well, that will help. Thank you!

Waiting for parts now, this is what I will do:

MK8 cooling block wit M6 threads that I will drill/tap to M7 threads (E3D heat break) one Micro Swiss all metal E3D heat break + E3D clone full bore 4.1mm heat break E3D clone heater blocks Micro Swiss TwinCladXT plated 0.4 nozzles.

So at the end I will get E3D compatible extruders. One will be all metal and other will be with Capricorn PTFE tube to the nozzle(for PLA)

Second stage:

Change steppers to Nema 17 1.2kg/cm (22mm long) + 2.75 gears + Bondtech gears.

So should be very reliable printing head at the end )) But will see))

@dc42 , @Phaedrux Oh, i understand now and S0 on M574 solved all my problems. Thank you both for your interest.

I tried everything but PEI for PETG, because I had read that it can stick too much to PEI.

I finally tried PEI and never looked back. I clean with 99% alcohol in between prints and set the temperatures around 82c. I set the nozzle height with printer paper. I mostly print Esun PETG. No gluestick. No hairspray.

Never had an issue removing the prints. Have only had an occasional problems with warping on large thick parts with very dense infill.

In my experience PETG likes moderate temperatures. I think I had some adhesion issues a while back from temperatures set too high.

PETG adhesion can be tricky if you don't have slicer settings dialed in for it. In simplify 3D, I go for a 150% first layer height, 120% first layer width 35% first layer speed (might be able to go faster) and for PETG I set the outline direction to inside out (Don't do this with PLA). I had problems getting PETG dialed in in Cura.

I do have an ultra base (I took the adhesive off so I can switch it with other surfaces) I don't like gluing things down because then your left with a mess when you have to change it out.

I only really printed with it once. The PCB heater is nice though. They are a bit more powerful than the MKII boards (at least the 220x220 version is) and I have run mine set at 118C (measured with IR thermometer to get minimum 110c) for abs, no problem. If you have to run a PCB heater due to weight considerations, these are worth it just for the PCB.

Simple storage. The firmware gets flashed onto the board itself. The firmware bin file on the card isn't used after that.

@mrplay1234 said in Someone have tested WolfBite:

PLA PetG on glass..... open build printer 50c bed for pla and 60 for petg bed size is 300x200

Never had problem with PLA or PET-G on glass. PET-G can even stick to much to glass.
But I suggest to try out Hegron, yes this is a spray for hairs available in stores like rossmann. It works even with ABS

Thanks for the clue ^^