@tekstyle
What is it the you need the arduino to do that RRF can't?
You can use conditional g code to do your IF statements and can control a servo.

@joeko

Yes, that is right.

Connect the power supply positive output to the LED strip positive. Connect the LED strip negative to the FAN- pin Connect the power-supply negative output to the Duet power supply negative output if they are two different supplies. Make sure your LED power supply voltage is not too high for the type of Duet board you are using.

@alankilian
So the switch is just connected to the pcb. Thought otherwise. Thanks for your link says all.. been trying to lookup all this. Thanks again.

Thanks for the update. Bent pin would be a good thing to check for.

@droftarts Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Worked great for both of my boards. I now have differences (among the sensors) of 0.5 ° C. With the fixed resistors it was only 0.1 ° C!
perfect thank you!

@droftarts @Phaedrux thanks for your suggestion I will try this !

I worked it out last night. The creality branded bl touch loom was wired differently to what the guide indicates https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe . I bought a new bl touch and compared the terminals. I guess not all is lost, now I can install the spare bl touch on my second machine!

The guide instructions
3.3V - nil
In - White
GND - black and brown or blue
Out - Orange or yellow
+5V - Red

The creality loom from left to right(with metal terminals facing you)
white
black
yellow
red
blue

The Official BL touch loom from left to right(with metal terminals facing you)
brown
red
yellow
black
white

So in the end I connected the duet end as follows:
3.3V - Nil
In - blue
GND - red + white
Out - Yellow
+5v - black

Hopefully this will help somebody else with a creality based BL-touch.

Cheers

P

@alankilian said in bed sensor always in minus:

@joeko said in bed sensor always in minus:

M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T10000 B3950

This should be T100000 not T10000.

yes 🙂
this solved it. thx 🙂

@zipzap AWESOME!

I'm glad you got it working.

perfect, that fixed this 🙂

Yes it would appear that your endstops are failing as triggered. If you can replace them with NC switches all the better.

@dieguito said in Sinking vs Sourcing Alarm Output Pin Connection to Duet WiFi:

@dc42 can ALM connect to ENC_A in the CONN_LCD header? What does COM0 connect to?

The CONN_LCD pins have no input protection at all, so I don't recommend a direct connection. A simple and safe alternative would be to use an opto isolator and a couple of resistors.

@phaedrux Thank you. Yes, I have looked at the documentation beforehand. I was unsure if I have to use the external 5V input on the duex if I am using the external 5V input on the duet itself.

To avoid confusion/errors I am now just using the external 5V on both the duex and the duet. Everything is working great.

@dc42 Thanks!

@akayoshi Wow, ok, I didn't fathom how large that headted bed was. I'd never heard of the CR-10 Max before. Looking at it I see the bed is a 24v 750W DC heater. That's a lot larger than I had expected. Sorry about that.

That's a 32Amp load, (750w/24v). The onboard bed heater mosfet is rated at 18A.

Sorry for leading you astray, I should have asked for the bed heater wattage/amps/volts.

@yveske Makes sense, thank you for clearing that up!

@cncmodeller I think @Phaedrux answer here https://forum.duet3d.com/post/122714 is perfect!

Ian

@cosmowave
You need something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QLOUNI-Converter-3-0-40V-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B077VW4BTY

@droftarts

OK so this is weird (and annoying I've lost hours to this fault), all I've done is checked the BLTouch and the signals from the duet with a servo tester and a servo respectively (as above), and now I've re-connected the BLtouch and everything works...

I guess I might have had a "sticky" BLTouch???!

Also, for checking probing I decided to use a sponge to help prevent crashes, works a treat would recommend!!

All the best,
Barry M

ProbeSponge.jpg

@phaedrux said in New to Duet but heading to a major project. Advise needed.:

Perhaps you need to enable to pullup resistor on the pin you're trying to use.

Add ^ to the pin name in the M574.

Tried already:

M574 X1 S1 P "121.io0.in" makes HOME in the position where it is because the pin is active. It does not give homing failed. It needs to be inverted, so next try to follow. M574 X1 S1 P "!121.io0.in" searches for HOME correctly, but keeps waiting for it. It ends up giving homing failed. Inverting but still not Ok. M574 X1 S1 P "^121.io0.in" makes HOME in the position where it is, as the first option. It does not give homing failed. Also needs to invert it. M574 X1 S1 P "! ^121.io0.in" searches HOME correctly, but waits for it. It ends up giving homing failed.

At this moment, we're waiting for receive a new driver, because the USB interface to configure it was burned after a bunch intensive pin testing (at least we think that must have happened this, because it does not detect the USB anymore but moves).
So we need patiently wait for it. Meanwhile we have a lot of others task/problems to resolve.

Since you can send the PWM frequency command while the fan is running I would just start low and increase it a hundred or so at a time to see how it behaves.

How do you think the cooling relates to poor layer quality? How will changing the fan PWM frequency help?

Is the fan running at all? Is it running but too slowly?

@bananapuppy, the L CD driver files are in this part of the source file tree:

6a139745-96df-4bee-af96-ab7f41c509ea-image.png

You would need to add a new folder containing the driver files for the SSD1309, similar to the folders and files for ST7920 and ST7567.

I'm glad you got it working!