When I read the TMC2660 datasheet, it sounded like the RNDTF bit doesn't affect stealthChop mode, because it's only discussed in the section about constant off-time mode. So if you want to try setting it in stealthChop mode, you will have to calculate the value of the whole chopper control register that you want, and set it using the C parameter of M569.
The TMC2660 doesn't support chopSync or stealthChop. It does support coolStep, which reduces motor noise at low and medium speeds. It's disabled by default, because (like stealthChop) it increases the likelihood of skipped steps if the nozzle hits a blob or overhang.
Always-on fans are not controlled by mosfets. If your Duet is revision 1.03 or later then perhaps you shorted the fan out or connected it the wrong way round, and the 1A blade fuse for the fan has blown.
Have you tried connecting a microswitch or other endstop to the E1 endstop input? It's normal for it to read as triggered in Machine Properties when nothing is connected to it, because it is an active high input with a pull up resistor.
If the hot end heater, heatsink fan and print cooling fan all use the VIN voltage, then they can share a common +VIN wire between the Duet and the hot end. The filament sensor and X endstop may be able to share a common ground wire. However, i do not recommend sharing that ground wire with the heatsink fan. Also the two thermistor wires should not be shared with anything else.
@jacotheron said in Fan question:
By default Fan 0 is the Tool Fan. In some special cases, the Tool fan can change during a print. For example if you have an IDEX (independent dual extruder) printer, the active tool's fan is the Tool Fan - this allows simpler Gcode to target the right fan without having to first check which tool is active (when slicing).
For most of us, this provides no real benefit.
For S3D, the default Fan options should work as long as Fan 0 is what you need to control. If you need to control another fan, you will need to dig a bit into the Firmware Configuration (under the Tools menu).
I can't exactly remember how I made my specific profile, for the customization (since I run multiple printers), but inside the FFF tab, you can set the Gcode for a fan. Default is M106 S$ (a $ is replaced by 0-255; % is replaced with a percentage). If you need it to control Fan 1, use M106 P1 S$.
If you have multiple printers, you will need to create a separate configuration like above for the Duet (or for each Duet their own), and in the Processes (where you usually set your settings), in the G-Code tab, ensure that "Update Firmware Configuration" is checked and the right firmware configuration is selected. Each time you now select this profile in the processes, it will use your settings.
Using the above method I changed the way S3D sets my temperatures, using the newer G10 option (though my starting gcode have the more advanced option to add idle temperatures as well).
Something weird is going on. Here is the 12864 display entry fro fan:
text R27 C5 F0 T"Fan:
alter R27 C50 F0 D0 W19 N399
It says fan 0 is at 0% when it's at 60%. In DWC "Tool Fan" seems to track with fan 0 in 12864. If I change fan 0 in DWC the fan turns on and 12864 stays at 0. S3D also appears to want to control tool fan in DWC and fan 0 in 12864. Neither of these affect the actual fan.
edit: My bad, it was M563 I think. It must have been set wrong after the SD card died. It's all about what fan is assigned to the tool. Duhhh!!!
@nikker said in Testing Duex5... cant get fans to work:
Think I have i may have it figured out but cant test it as I dont have a jumper... but it looks like I have to set the fan voltage jumper to 12 volts as well as the 12v EN jumper. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks.
If your VIN is 24V, that is correct. If VIN is 12V, set the fan voltage selector jumper to VIN instead of to 12V.
I actually had this exact problem while using an E3D strong but compact motor (0.9 degree type). There are four pins, it turned out that I needed to switch pin 2 and 4 in order to make it work. You may need to switch pin 1 and 3 if it doesn’t work. I figured this out by using a multimeter to measure the Ohms between each pair of coils. If you have a pair, it will be around 3-8 ohms otherwise it will be infinity.
I also verified the Duet was OK by using a known good motor on that driver.
@dc42 I would imagine for the z motors, speed and torque is not much of an issue as its only raising and lowering the printing gantry at a slow speed. The only fast movements it would do is during probing. Perhaps I am missing something? Either way, continuing with the project in this capacity is perfectly fine for me.
I used to use a steel ball on the frame to level my old printer when it was set up at a new location- it was much more sensitive to tilt than a bubble level. If the X axis uses a piece of t-slot you can put a steel ball on it and it will be a very sensitive tilt sensor. Then all you have to do is detect the ball, either optically, magnetically, or using a piezo element.
In a dual motor set-up the X axis won't usually tilt while the machine is printing, so the Prusa technique of running the X axis to the top of the Z axis and a little beyond to force the Z motors/screws to sync works pretty well.