Ok, im an idiot..... after reading the Smart effector install guide for the 5th time. it occurred to me in a photo that i had the rods installed wrong. i had connected the rods to each point in the triangle. i.e. right next to each other instead of spaced equally each rod next to its neighbor rod. like in this picture....
right, it travels smooth now. all directions travel as expected. thanks for all your help and suggestions. as always this is an excellent forum and the duet is a great piece of hardware!
but dont you fret ill be back with some other insane problem that i overlooked in the guide.....
@3dware said in Laser Filament Sensor:
so can I take all the endstops on the duet for the 5 monitor and the 5 enstops on the duex for the 5 endstops of the axes?
Yes that's possible, but only with the 2.03beta firmware. In that firmware, the M574 command has been extended to allow axes to use different endstop from normal.
I had the same problem once, and it cleared up by itself. I think it was because I was accessing the web control from my iphone. I shut down the iphone app, and the wifi worked again after a Duet restart. May have been coincidence, but maybe not.
Can you confirm that you are using external drivers with optically-isolated inputs?
How close to the PT100 cable do the stepper motor cables run?
What sort of stepper motor cables are they?
How are you providing power to the external drivers?
Have you grounded VIN-, the hot end metalwork, and the frame of the printer? If not, the stepper motor bodies can pick up noise from the windings, and that noise may be transmitted through metal mechanical parts to the PT100 cartridge case.
If you wire it up that way then you would need to generate the steps manually using M42 commands, so you would only be able to move it slowly. Unless you put some logic or an Arduino between the ULN and the Duet, to turn the step and direction signals from the Duet into inputs for the ULN.
@puterpro said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:
Diamond HE, eh? Do you get a lot of clogs? That fan must sound like a 747!
I've done an awful lot of work on "taming" the 5 colour Diamond - see my blog https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/23/the-diamond-5-colour-part-3-finally-tamed/
No clogs now but that's after a lot of work re-designing fan ducts and increasing the fan size from 50mm to 60mm in order to get the requisite air flow. 27 cfm is sufficient and the current fan I use for that is rated at 39dBa so not too bad. During my experiments, I had one fan that was rated at 66dBa. That one sounded like Concord (much louder than 747)
Update: got the short extension today close but no cigar.
However I'm no stranger to cutting corners and using superglue, two snips with some side cutters and it fits.
If you for other reasons need to do a revision of the v3 board, maybe add some clearance if it is possible?
Like i mentioned in my case, I do have passive and active protection going on... There is a thermal fuse in line with the heater bed so if that fails its obviously cutting power... But having software controlled stuff that could save me a fuse and is free that would work 90% of the time. Why not?
So for people like me who have a mechanical relay as a first gate for the mains powered heat bed, having the option to shut off the power via any IO, (ps_on just happens to be the one used as thats what seems to be recommended at the time) would be hugely beneficial.
Simply put, you cant have enough safety.
Oh and I have that 700 w keenovo matt. So I think i read it tops out about 250c...
The only safety feature I haven't done yet is earth the frame of my printer.... Must do that...
Do not connect any of the output pins of the expansion board to ground. They are all differential outputs, so doing so may burn out the driver chips on the expansion board. Instead, connect GND on the G540 to GND on the Duet, or to GND on one of the servo output connectors on the expansion board.