Fair enough, that's off the list then!
Regards grounding most switch mode PSUs have a capacative link between the DC negative and protective earth. I've found my ethernet connected v0.6 and v0.8.5 units don't connect well to the ethernet when there is no link between protective earth and dc negative. In an ideal world I would pull my finger out and build the circuit recommended by another forum user that creates a bit of a seperation between protective earth and dc earth but lets voltages through that are over a threshold.
Edit: Getting decent low resistance earths throughout a machine can be tricky. Especially so on an alloy extrustion machine but think yours is assembled/pressed steel? Tho be honest if the motor bodies are grounded I doubt it is worth spending much more effort on it. That said some people have grounded the hotends but think that was to ease temerature reading noise. I'm also assuming that grounding your extruder drive stepper will ground you extruder. Similar to before though, I doubt it will be the magic bullet.
Use whatever colour you like. The multicore cables I use (RS Pro range) have red, blue and green cores (you don't get black until there are 6 cores), so I choose blue for negative and green for signal.
@thwe and @Stephen6309
My only concern is to have a 16mm button on the front of the printer, with this I want to turn on the printer.
If I can turn off the printer with this button, that would be nice, but it is not necessary. I can do that also via web interface
Thanks, I had actually ordered that SainSmart Buck Converter right before you posted. I got it wired up as Option 2 above. Instead of using the Ground from one of the Always On Fan Connectors, I used a ground from the Expansion Header which I currently don't plan to use. Works perfectly.
@ringo1508 said in Another power wiring question:
The bed is 24V. The SSR is only to turn the 24V PSU on/off so I can leave the board on all the time via the 5V PSU that powers it through the external 5V connector on the board.
Oh duh. You did say that in your first post. I just forgot.
@melfesto The hot end cooling fan really needs to be on when the hot is heated, both before and after a print, and not just during a print. If you map that fan to a tool, then the slicer will be turning it on and off during a print so you'll end up with big problems.
However, you can indeed drop the fan speed when it's warm and ramp it up to full speed as the temperature increases without resorting to manual control. Here is how I do it.
M106 P1 S255 I0 F259 L125 H1 T60:140.
The L parameter sets the minimum non-zero fan speed to 50%. This is to prevent the fan from running at very slow values which I found to be annoying but which you can omit. The H1 parameter sets it to run in thermostatic mode. The T parameter defines the temperature range. So below 60 deg C the fan is off. At 60 deg C the fan will come on at 50% (as defined by the "L" parameter) then it will ramp up to full full speed between 60 and 140 deg C and remain at 100% for any temperature above 140 deg C.
You can if course play around with those L and T values to suit.
@aimrabbit said in Extruding stops after a few minutes:
So don't try the SunLu PLA+, you'll waste your money.
That's too bad to hear. I've noticed some quality issues as well. I've had a few good rolls of SunLu PLA+ from last year, but it would seem that more recent batches have started to slip.