@alankilian @deckingman
Looks like daemon.g with a G4 command should do the trick. Thanks for the tip on the timers!

@Froschkönig The simplest way is to use a true emergency stop switch and wire the PSU positive through it - that's what do. So when I hit the button, it kills all power to the printer until I reset the switch.

@dc42 indeed we are using a Duet 3 MB6HC.
Thank you very much for the prompt reply, testing and making effort to improve the code!!

@alankilian thanks for the suggestion and the quick reponse!

@dc42

Well, I messed up and I think I need to replace some MOSFETS for Fans1 and 2.

I was trying to connect a 3 wire part cooling fan and I accidently shorted the GND of the 3 wire fan to the PWM GND of Fan1 and I saw a little smoke come out of the new 3 wire fan.

To try to determine what exactly I broke. I tested the fan fuse and it is fine.
I took a known good fan and connected it one at a time to
Fan0, used the M106 P0 S1 command and it turned on
Fan1, used the M106 P1 S1 command and it wouldn't turn on
Fan2, used the M106 P2 S1 command and it wouldn't turn on

I saw this post where you indicated that the MOSFET most likely went out.

Am I correct to assume that means that I need to replace MOSFETs for both Fan1 and Fan2 with PMV20XNE?

I have a hot air station but I wouldn't say I am great at it. I could use some recommendations on temps for removing the existing part and putting the new one on.

Thanks in advance.

Still supported up to the latest https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/3.4.5

Start here and let us know what you find.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Duet_wont_respond

@Phaedrux It was a short circuit.I will repair the piece and inform if that was the solution

@dc42 thank you I will give it a go 👍.

Figured out the problem: placed a new heatpad and didn't consider the thermistor could have changed as well! It turned out the PT100 is a PT1000 now.

The solution is simple – if you're able to read your multimeter. Hmm…

IMG5.jpg

Sorry for the fuss – and thank you for your assistance!

@jay_s_uk no neither of those. I've had this board for almost years and did not treat it nice and it's still going strong. One of them is fixed by adding a jumper on the middle 2 pins underneath the fans. But one of them is still only fully turning on once I plug in the USB. Otherwise it's not getting the 5v and the fuses are good. Just strange they both had the same problem and one works with the jumper added and one doesn't.

First I would suggest updating your firmware to 3.4.5 by uploading this zip file to the system tab in DWC. https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.5/Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.5.zip

Then have a read through this corexy setup guide.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_coreXY

There are motor tests described that may help you figure it out.

@sebkritikel said in One Extruder Motor for two filaments:

Which Stratasys model? 1200, 768, uprint, etc? I have a 1200es BST I've been mulling over retrofiting using the info below.

It's a Fortus 250MC, about 9 years old. It's been a workhorse for us and produced prints almost every day for all that time, so it certainly doesn't owe anyone anything, but the motion system is so nice I want it to live again.

@sebkritikel said in One Extruder Motor for two filaments:

Check out these posts by @Archeantus , they were able to do a fully reversible retrofit on a uprint, using the original tool head parts, steppers, etc, bypassing the original Stratasys electornics boards.

I've been searching through here (before posting, as I'm sure I'm not the first person to try this), but I think it's our PDB that has blown. Hard to be sure as there is a lot going on in there. The 5V PSU wasn't working, so I replaced that, but not sure if it was a symptom or the problem, as now the SBC in there continually beeps.

@deckingman said in One Extruder Motor for two filaments:

Well changing the motor direction is certainly doable. It's the "S" parameter in M569. So you could use M569 Pn S0 in one tool change macro (say tpost0.g), and M569 Pn S1 in the other tool change macro (say tpost1.g).

Rebuilding the head at the moment to take Revo hot ends, but will try that - thank you.

@Phaedrux said in Duet 3 Mini 5+ Ethernet - No IP Address:

Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a

Will do, thank you.

Hi @alankilian
I don't see some 24V DC or switch connected to SRV-ON input (maybe I don't look at the proper place...)
But I have made the configuration of the Pn003 to 1 for set it as "always enabled".

@T3P3Tony,

thanks for the quick and detailed reply.

I will try to do it like suggested, it could happen I come back to you with some question during the implementation.

Regards
Sascha

Thank you! I've learned a lot.

What a friendly forum.

I admit these some of these are the basics, or basic conventions, of microcontroller use, but I just didn't have an opportunity to learn them earlier.

@djthuma said in Duet 6XD motor and endstop connection:

Do I need to split the y motors?

Only if you need to move them independently.

@tkln said in 48V in and 24V out? (Duet 3 Main Board 6HC):

But the procedure is the same for both the hc6 and the hc3 expansion board, right?

Yes

Ian

@tylersuard The fuse works on the peak current, not the average. It doesn't matter if you set the PWM to 50%, the peak current drawn by the heater remains at over 7A. Fuses are safety devices. The 5A fuse is intended to protect both the switch/socket and the connected circuit. It's not a good idea to simply replace the fuse with one rated for higher current. If you want to maintain the safety of the whole circuit, you should replace the power switch/connector/fuse device with one rated well above the current that your device is actually going to use.

I connected only 2 of the 3 wires and it seems to work fine. I'm not sure about the accuracy of the sensors, they seem to be a little bit off but thats fine for me.

Topic an be closed! Thx for the help

Thanks @dc42 FWIW I did end up wiring it as show in the diagram before waiting for input here it didn't fry the board, so I was happy for a while. Then configured the zprobe correctly, spent like 2 hours correcting the geometry and adding setting to the gcode so it works and it finally did, BUT THEN I broke the effector, so I'm back at square one. I'm logging here the links I used for posterity and for the off chance someone else is in my shoes in the future:

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_Overview
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/G32
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#Section_Auto_calibration
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes

Alas the new docs don't have any of the useful steps in the old ones, but good they're still there.

I guess the thread can be closed..

@techworld First of all, it's bad practice to use different firmware and DSF/DWC versions. Do not install firmware updates directly over the web interface in SBC mode, do it via apt update/upgrade instead.

Once connected over SSH/Linux terminal, check if apt update succeeds. Perhaps your machine doesn't have internet access but requires it to download the libgnutls30 package.

@axiom Thanks to both of you! That seems to have been the solution!!!
Best regards

@FrankV I have the same setup but my print doesn't stay ON after pushing the momentary button. Any clue? Thanks.