Can I connect the positive to the 5V pin of the Jumper Select and negative to the GND pin of the FAN1 connector? If so, will this allow to use thermostatic control, so that this 5V fan start running at 45ºC?
Yes. The Duet switches PWM on the negative side, so as long as the negative wire of the fan is connected to Fan1 you will be able to control it regardless of where it gets it's voltage source from.
When using multiple fan voltages in the same system be very careful not to short out a higher voltage into the 5v side.
I found cheap connectors on ebay and ordered them. This topic is solved but will stay around as a testament to my stupidity (-:
@dc42 glad to hear the next revision of the toolboard will have different connectors which are a bit easier to get hold of (and crimp). Luckily, I don't immediately need the second thermistor input right now (although I plan to use it to test heatsink/hotend performance in the future).
Why not add the Pi now and use its wifi to Ethernet bridge and you will be ready for the SBC whenever you want?
To be honest @Dougal1957 I don't follow the technical side of the forum much, and I don't really know what the benefits of using an SBC are.
At the moment I'm just trying to get the polar printer to a point that I'm happy to start reliability banging out parts.
It works now and I'm into updates re the practicalities of running and maintaining it.
A 12864 display for stand alone ops so I don't need my pc.
A filament monitor to reduce failed prints as my prints are multiple days long.
A pendant, primarily for ease of maintenance.
WiFi as the ethernet cable is starting to piss me off but less necessary now I have the 12864 display. TBH I could just use a WiFi to ethernet bridge and might do that just to get on.
After a couple of months of running I'll look into building a second printer using the learning from the first.
When you test your duel z motors. If it runs the wrong way chainge direction in the G code ,, i assume you have two motors and yes its possable to have one running the opposite of the other z motor (incorect wiring) in that case you must rewire so both turn the same direction it does matter that both motors on your z run the same direction. So "when" they do and if they turn the the wrong direction chainge it in your your gcode. go to system tab on the dwc user interface open your config .g file.
Under drives youl see (M-569. P0 S0.) By changing
S0 to S1 will chaing the direction of all your stepper. As far as XYZ and X is concerned.. its the same for all. Also for double Z motors. Both z motors should turn same directoin if they dont cainge one motors wiring then correct rotation on your config .g file hopefully this helps 🙂
@cncmodeller I'm using a seperate Arduino to drive the backlight. Works fine.
I have some ATMega44 chips soldered on a small SOP16 PCB(*), would they be powerful enough to drive the Neopixel?
Can you compile your program with Atmega44 selected?
Does it switch the backlight on/off, when I push the button on the LCD?
*) It's the green PCB (Pololu stepper driver footprint)
I was testing out the remaining unmapped features/parts of my Klipper conversion for the Duet3 mini, and wanted to see if I could hook up a reprap display i had laying around vs the 12864 that's explicitly allowed in the docs.
@droftarts I fixed the channel assignments and disconnected heater 1. System still went into reset and looked like a short because all the PCB LEDs blank out the moment I select either T0 or H1 (GUI links), or send T0 by the console.
However, the heaters are working now and I've tuned them up already.
I tried a few more times with T0 or T1 though and haven't been able to force a reset. It would be great if it stayed this way!