Only if you also use an external mosfet for the bed, connecting the dc/dc converter to the bed output probably wouldn't work too well, maybe if you used a low enough switching frequency.
By far the easiest method would be to run the 12v bed with 24v at a reduced duty cycle. Look at the P parameter for the M303 command. Beware this does carry some additional risk if the firmware or hardware were to have a problem leaving the heater turned on full power, but it could be mitigated by using a thermal fuse.
@stevo said in Pay for config / json files for my corexy printer build.:
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2 on Wed Jun 26 2019 19:39:28 GMT+0100 (BST)
G1 R1 X0 Y0 Z5 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move
G1 R1 X0 Y0 ; go back to the last print move
M83 ; relative extruder moves
G1 E10 F3600 ; extrude 10mm of filament
More of a question than a suggestion....
Theway I read the above is that 10mm of filament will be deposited on top of the last print position. Shouldn't the extrude filament command be first...as a priming step....then move the extruder to the last position to start printing again?
This is a really helpful thread...thanks!
@dc42 Just to complete the loop, I actually have a few small macros that set the M913 current for different scenarios and are called as needed and I only have a single place to change the actual values.
They just contain a M913 command.
The Smart Effector handles the transition from a 2-wire PT100 to 4 wires running to the Duet. The advantage of the 4 wire connection is that the resistance of the wires between the effector and the Duet won't affect the reading. With a 2-wire connection, each ohm of resistance will increase the reading by 2.5C.
Look at the LEDs on the Ethernet connector. When the Duet is connected to a router, and you have enabled networking using M552 S1, they should flash regularly.
If they do flash but you still can't connect, you can use Wireshark to sniff the Ethernet bus.
@dc42 said in 12864 lcd on duet wifi?:
and re-jig the connections to avoid the need for custom cables.
My Wanhao D6 has screen/encoder and sd-card cables that plug right into the similarly named ports on the board. (I'm almost stupid enough to just plug them in and turn it on to see what happens.) I'd love for them to work and not just be lifeless. If there were enough folks interested in this feature, would you all make a way to bring it to life?