@bug2k22 I didn't read your post carefully enough and I thought you meant the FFC for the inductive sensor. The FFC for the filament monitor is less critical. You can route it close to metal if necessary, preferably metal that is connected to Duet ground.

@MaxGyver I would use unshielded twisted pair in that situation because it has lower capacitance. If you use shielded, I suggest you connect the shield to Duet ground and leave it unconnected at the driver end of the cable.

Additional ESD protection should not be required.

Thank you both! I'll have an engineer do some testing on it. We've never seen one have this kind of issue before and would like to understand if we (really, myself since it's been on my desk) caused it damage or if it was just a faulty board. I'll go ahead and remove the "Unsolved" tag.

@JC42 i've used a similar servo and MG90s on a toolboard. I used a buck convertor off of the 24v input to get the 5v the servo required.

Various details about servo's buried in my SV08 thread - starting about here if they are of any use.

https://forum.duet3d.com/post/350131

I presume you have already seen the standard duet3d docs on hobby servo connection.
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_servos

@vaike_peeter thanks for your report. I have identified why re-initialising the probe when it was already taking readings caused a reset and I have implemented a fix for that.

just in case OP is still interested: I posted my working config here
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/37868/smart-orbiter-3-setup-filament-sensor-rgb-and-hotend-led

@dc42 perfect, thanks a lot! I think the topic can be closed then.

@crap you may want to check and/or re-crimp the connector at the Duet end of the cable, and make sure the pins are fully inserted. Also check that the soldering of the connector on the Duet looks good.

@gloomyandy

Yes, indeed there are.

I was speaking from my personal experience BUT as I have no intention of using the SZP for setting the Z=0 Datum, I have done no testing of that feature.

I'm "old school", I install BLTouch units for setting the Z=0 Datum.

Frederick

@Superbrain8 thanks for confirming!

Oh wait I read that wrong. "Otherwise use any PWM-capable IO[n].out pin for 3.3V signalling." I am blind lol.

@dc42 Thank you so much for clarification, this is exactly what I was looking for!

@dc42 Thank you.

@Triet your PSU may already have a suitable current limit, in which case you may not need the fuse if the wires are thick enough. If in doubt, use an in-line auto fuse holder.

DO NOT use a cheap DC-DC SSR sourced from eBay etc. Use either an Auber Instruments DC-DC SSR or a mosfet switch intended for controlling 3D printer bed heaters.

@dc42 Thanks for this info. I know this is an old thread but you info helped me as well. I was having similar temp issues with my Revo. The bed would read 26 at ambient and the nozzle was reading 33. I know my bed it pretty close because I know the ambient temp in the room and I measured it at ambient and at temp with a heat probe and IR temp gun. My problem was that prints looked and felt like I was under temp when printing. Dull surfaces and sometimes what looked like dry under-extrusion. I imagine it is not a linear progression when getting to final temp so that could have resulted in quite an under-temp condition. The high reading would have just gotten higher resulting in the heater turning off earlyI followed the semi-automatic calibration and now it reads within .5 degrees between the bed and the hotend.

Again, thanks for putting this info out there.

@smaaash Just to be clear with 3.5.4 you will need both probes (or at least some way to home Z and set Z=0 other than the SZP). 3.6 adds support for homing by touching the nozzle on the bed and detecting this using the SZP, but be aware this feature is still classed as experimental.

@genioluiz7 said in Duet not connect in anyways - Clue: nozzle fan always on:

I want to ask you an info about the v1.05, is there a way to add a resistor for the heated chamber?

Do you mean a Duet 2 WiFi v1.05? It should be a drop in replacement for your current board. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "add a resistor for the heated chamber". Do you mean a thermistor, ie temperature sensor? I think you still have one spare temperature input on your Duet. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_chamber

Ian

@Triet there is a 2-drive daughter board that provided two extra drivers on the Mini5+. https://www.duet3d.com/duet3expansionmini2plus

@simplesimson you can't connect steppers with external drivers to a 6HC when used in step/dir mode
You would need to use a 6XD or a 1XD. The 6XD is recommended over the 1XD.

You can't connect CAN controlled stepper drivers to duet boards as it's not supported and CAN isn't really fast enough for the high step rates required

I can't tell very much from your diagram because I can't see how far the SZP control board is from the hot end. If in doubt, put a layer of glass fibre tape or similar thermal insulation behind the control board to shield it from the heat.