Well I said I successfully edited the config, but I didn’t realize that the config.g file was zero bytes after the save. I’ve been having some issues with loosing the connectivity quit often and I guess that happened during the save.
I grabbed the config.g.bak but unfortunatly without my last setup for the probe. Oh well. Set it up once, I can do it again.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Rather than connecting directly to the Duet, consider getting something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/BlueFire-Waterproof-Voltmeter-Motorcycle-Black-Blue/dp/B07MKFYQHQ/
They can be wired directly to your PSU and should provide exactly what the phone needs to charge. Then you can use a plain USB cable. Plus it also has a handy voltage display.
@edchamberlain said in Duet wifi 24 V short - Ethernet Module VERY hot.:
@voodoobane Youre Right! I forgot to flash the firmware to the wifi board (Doh!). Have done that now and can confirm after forgetting my wifi password a few times it is now working! I can accsess the DWC and will now assume it is fully working.
Your welcome! I didn't think it was be that easy you know? hahaha I am really you glad you got it working!
@mike said in SSR failsafe:
The second one and the one I've settled on in the end for both of my printers is odering heaters with bimetallic themal switches built in them. If you get your heater from Keenovo, they do that for a small extra charge (like a $ or 2), or sometimes waive the charge altogether.
That's exactly what I did. Keenovo, ordered with self-resetting limiter built in. 24 inch (604 mm) round heater, about 1400 watts (110/120V, USA). It's been a while... if I recall, about $200 USD and 3 weeks. The extra charge for the protection was so small I don't remember the amount.
I sleep well.
@veti said in BLTouch (cheapo) don't trigger.:
when the bltouch triggers the signal goes to 1000. so any value above 0 would trigger it.
Yeah that's what i found out after the post to, the only way i can get anything other than 0 is if i put I1 in the M588 lol.
Any way to check the actuall in on the board? To simulate a trigger signal so to say.
Thank you I was using a BlTouch but new setup uses an inductive probe so I will wire servo to where the BLTouch pin control was wired. I have all the mechanics done and will finish the wiring and programming this week. I hope this finally gives me a dual extrusion option as tried almost everything else.
Thanks so much about taking us/me serious. I have a couple of ideas why everything is like it is:
metal-debris: In my case there was metal-debris in the open lower "bay" which also houses all the electronics, I learnend now the hard way why electronics should not be underneath the gantry with open top, when you are still working on your metal-gantry or even weeks later after working on it when it wasn´t cleand perfectly... vacuum-cleaning helped (and checking from time to time with the (mobile-phone-)torch/led if something glitters in the electronics-bay
loose connectors: I am sure in the huge build-up I made for the local artists here the long cables can pull with quite some torque on one or both of the ends, why strain-relief becomes a very important thing, so that not over time or while print-head is moving in a print connectors start to widen over time or the crimped side of the connector starts to loosen... I thought I was smart to take cables with an aditional flame-retardant layer, but so they quite thick, don´t know if I would do that anymore that way but rather buy one thick flame-retardant-flexible-tube where I put all cables for the printhead into...
With all that said: I am too young and studied stuff too far away from that to not have to have that learning-curve. So in a sense you - meaning you - become victim of your success with your very good pcb and support because more and more novice users - like me - try to use it in a maybe too professional intention while not having learned the necessary precautions...
So how to proceed with people like me:
Since I can understand if you do not like users to be able to totally disable all faults permanently for all heaters because it would be unresponsible to have some young kid burn down the printer and maybe even more because of it, how about a stepped safety/precaution:
For people that know how to make connectors/cabling and to avoid metal-debris, have the full security-features like they are now or even better (default setting)
for the rest, maybe offer more way to loosen even more than now the boundries of M570 by widening amount of short error-persistency: So if there is a short only a millisecond or so only every x minutes, it can be ignored - at least in my case with a metalgantry printing on a metalplate. If the short is more permanently like more than x seconds with a variable to set this would be perfect (I doubt M570 Px is doing exactly what I am describing here?) there might be a more severe problem... and it should throw a fault... so somehow differentiate between a temporary problem and a more severe permanent short to "high"/"low".
Oh and also maybe good info for the next iteration of the pt-100-board: I hooked up a second pt100 just like it came (out of the box) putting no crimp or connector or whatsoever on it to be sure that I do not change anything. Surprise, surprise. If with the old connectors (changed now) there was a heavy spike, even this second pt100 sitting near the pcb had a spike... that way I knew I did something wrong with the connectors on the cables or so because those "shocks" must have been so heavy the "spark" reached from one pt100 to the next one or it might even come via the pcb.
Since avoiding after each connector to make a test but rather redo all connectors and starting up the duet, I cannot say which connector was the worst, just that definetly it was my fault so thank you even more for your help
EDIT: Ah - a friend of my suggested the following: Since it is possible in config.g to hook-up additional virtual sensors -> Why not be able to config another virtual heater-sensor optionally which shows the raw-data of the temperature-sensor! That way when wiggling on a specific cable I might have a clue which cable/connectors to track down without borrowing an oscilloscope and learn how to use it...
EDIT2: Spontaneous idea e.g. Within M570 an additional variable like Fnnn with F0=cancel print even with non-persistent but beyond threshold heater fault F1=pause print with non-persistent but beyond threshold heater fault F2=only issue permanent M117 message but keep printing with non-persistent but beyond threshold heater fault -> what is persistent and non persistent could be defined within M570 Pnnn/Tnnn variable?
I gues in this scenario F2 is too risky? Or would this interfere with the M143 Annn-set? Better to put it there? How to correlate M570 to M143?
EDIT3: Will check PCB soon, hopefully saturday if any connector has gone loose
EDIT4: My poor qualification for those connectors with special crimps is why I asked some time ago for those simple (round-crimped) push-terminals on the pcb´s that wago, phoenix-contact and the taiwanese company that I forgot the name of have in their portfolio. But that said/written, I could understand that you cannot choose your connectors by the poorest performing customers
EDIT5: One thing for future that could be beneficial for next iteration boards: Of course electronics on pcb´s is miniaturizing more and more, but the connector´s on the user-side/interface-side could still be big & have a decent distance between each pin (2,54mm...) for not so talented users like me to make sure when I "assemble/make" that connector to my cable the possibility of only one fine "metal-hair" of the unisolated cableends of one pin to the next pin within one connector, has a low possiblity to touch each other because they are well separated. Also I start to hot-glue all connectors when they are assembled, that because of movement, they cannot become loose over time. Just one other fine detail... I can see the problem that too big connectors take up too much space on the pcb
Oh and EDIT6: One major problem was my own "home-made" cable to the paneldue. Since that cable is 3meters long I bought one with ca. 0,5mm^2 diameter and very good shielding ... and it works of course ( ) but I was not carefull enough with those connectors and have to redo them definetly (at least there is ca. 30cm still too much cable so I can chop off another bit and redo them...) When I unplug it 99.9% of all spikes are gone, only that 1 every half an hour or so. If I can find that last connector I am not sure - rather I gamble on your next firmware-update I guess
Fair enough, that's off the list then!
Regards grounding most switch mode PSUs have a capacative link between the DC negative and protective earth. I've found my ethernet connected v0.6 and v0.8.5 units don't connect well to the ethernet when there is no link between protective earth and dc negative. In an ideal world I would pull my finger out and build the circuit recommended by another forum user that creates a bit of a seperation between protective earth and dc earth but lets voltages through that are over a threshold.
Edit: Getting decent low resistance earths throughout a machine can be tricky. Especially so on an alloy extrustion machine but think yours is assembled/pressed steel? Tho be honest if the motor bodies are grounded I doubt it is worth spending much more effort on it. That said some people have grounded the hotends but think that was to ease temerature reading noise. I'm also assuming that grounding your extruder drive stepper will ground you extruder. Similar to before though, I doubt it will be the magic bullet.
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