I just remembered, there was a bug in the GNU C library that caused older versions of PanelDue firmware to freeze sometimes when used with later versions of RRF. If it happened at all, it was duringRRF start-up. Pressing the Reset button on PanelDue resolved it. If you are using an old version of PanelDue firmware, then that might have been the problem.

@DjDemonD:

My 20mm nema 17 gets quite hot probably in that range, it's not an issue but you don't want printed brackets softening so how about a mk8 extruder aluminium heatsink bonded to the back. Runs fairly cool now barely any mass added.

Good idea DJ - quieter than a fan too.

Wanna say thanks again and show my work - http://imgur.com/a/jtS2V

@dc42:

See http://reprappro.com/documentation/ormerod-2/wiring/#Fitting_the_cover_and_wire_routing for how RepRapPro did it.

This is nice as you see what it could look like.

The interesting image from that page:
https://reprappro.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/ORM2-wiring-34.jpg

And its description:
"All the wiring looms use shielded cable, to reduce the effects of Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI). It is important that the shielding makes contact with ground, by earthing them through the metal case. Each wire has a slot in the case; bend each cable so it sits in the slot. Make sure that there is not sideways pressure on the housings, where they are plugged onto the pins of the Duet; they can loose their contact with the pin, and make a faulty connection."

So the light comes on without the cables attached as well. There's nothing close to the back of the board at all. And I can't detect any short in the bed wiring either, cables and connections look fine and resistance is 1.8 Ohms, which I guess is normal. Also , I didn't touch anything related to the bed when installing the second fan. Oh, and I run the fans on the internal 5V supply, if that might be a clue?

I have a multimeter but I don't know what to look for if I should check the mosfet and driver chip.

I'm glad you found the problem. Yes the SD card speed is normally 20Mbytes/sec on a Duet WiFi, or 21 on a Duet 0.8.5. Were you using the SD card that was supplied with your Duet?

Quite so, however if his 24V PSU is only rated at 6A of which the bed heater takes 4A, the remaining 2A isn't enough for the extruder heater, steppers and fans.

You will need to power the relay board from +5V (or 12V, or whatever voltage it needs) and ground too. I presume that's what J5 is for, although the schematic for that part doesn't make sense.

Thanks
I have seen else where on the forum that you've said that a 2.8A motor is reasonable for a wifi board. When you say that, is that at the upper end of the limit, or would the board just about cope with a 3A motor?

Hi yes finally i have resolved this issue.
I bought a multi-meter and realized that my wire was faulty … So i changed it and now it all work as intended!
thanks a lot for your help guys.

David,

to follow up even with your recommendations no leds lit up. I will try using the Atmel program and reflash the file onto the main chip first to see if that is an issue.

@iDevelo:

So it was just the trigger level? You could in theory just lower that?

Also I'm interested in the outcome of this. I've got issues with 3Dlac and the IR sensor.

Well I'm pretty confident that the switch will work - that's what it's designed to do. However, it is a contact switch so you can't use it directly on the bed unless you use some mechanism to deploy it. That is to say, you can't have it permanently lower than the nozzle because it will be scraping on the printed part, and you can't have it higher because the nozzle will touch the bed before the probe does. My plan is to use it above the hot end mount with the nozzle itself being the probe. Check my sliding mount thread to see what I mean.

So it's the sliding mount part that could screw up the repeatability. I've nearly got a working prototype but I have to change the entire XY carriages to test it.

Ian

When it first happened the E0 stopped working, but the bed continued to work. Stupidly I moved the E0 thermistor leads to the bed connector and that stopped wortking too. I assumed I blew the input because the bed was still working? Anyway I just tested the fuse and it was open, I jumped it and with just USB and a thermistor connected all the temps are woking? I'm still a little puzzled why I thought the bed temp was working when I first damaged it if the fuse was already blown. Thank You

Great! Thanks!

Thanks for the answers.
I took my time and managed to twist my pairs ! 🙂
I needed to replace my wire loom, decided to use silicone wires to potentially reduce their effect on the effector.

The Part numbers are:

Red: KP-1608SURCK
Green: KP-1608SGC
Blue: KPG-1608QBC-D

Ok, I just cut the tab.
It's kinda a pain.

the best way I found was to use the back side of a utility knofe blade corner, it's pretty much the exact width of the jumper, and it scrapes out the jumper, instead of cleanly slicing through it and not removing it, as that could potentially short later.

@deckingman:

I think it might be a bit unreasonable to expect the makers to state that it is OK to exceed the recommended maximum ratings. By all means do so if you feel you have to, but it must be at your own risk.

While I agree that it's unfair to expect a warranty for damage caused by exceeding specifications, different designs will use different tolerances and design in different amounts of headroom. Also current limits are generally related to cooling and this can vary, see David's response for a good demonstration of this.

@dc42:

The absolute maximum rating of the TMC2130 drivers is 30V when they are driving stepper motors. However, stepper motors generate power when you decelerate them, so the VIN voltage can go higher then the voltage from the PSU, especially if you are not powering a heated bed from the same power rail. That is why we recommend a nominal VIN of 25V maximum. If the power monitor detects 29V or more, it will shut down the stepper drivers in an attempt to protect them - which is likely to ruin your print.

The M122 command will show you the maximum and minimum supply voltages measured since you last ran M122, along with the number of these overvoltage events.

We are hoping to increase the rated bed heater current on the blue production Duet WiFi boards beyond 15A when the new thermal test results come in. The white pre-production boards will remain rated at 15A.

Thanks David, I appreciate that. I thought that might be the reason why the drivers had a higher limit in the datasheet but wanted to confirm - I wasn't sure if the deceleration issue was only valid for DC brushed servos although thinking about it, it also AC servos which are very similar to steppers. I was thinking that something like the Geckodrive returned energy dump circuit (http://www.geckodrive.com/returned-energy-dump) could help safely increase the limit slightly - At least enough to be able to push the heat bed voltage higher.

I look forward to the thermal test results - I did notice that the traces did heat slightly but I don't know how hot they would have gotten as I only heated to 30C. I'm hopeful that a fan behind the board could increase the rating by a fair amount.

Edit 1: I tried a fast move on the X and Y axes to measure the voltage change: (This is on a Prusa i2 with Nema 17 motors at 1A - I didn't include Z as for some reason G0 seems to do a coordinated move ?)

G0 X100 Y100 F36000 ... Supply voltage: min 11.9, current 12.0, max 12.1, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0

Edit 2: Using a voltage of 10V reduces my heatbed voltage to a much more manageable 13.5A. This obviously reduces the maximum speed of my steppers, but this shouldn't affect me as the Prusa i2 is about as rigid as a piece of wet pasta. As an aside, when trying to perform PID tuning on my heater bed, the motors were clicking at the same rate as the heater. (~5Hz ?)

correction the codes work fine if a print is in progress

Hi Andrew, I have emailed you.