Thank you so much! And thanks for updating the documentation!

I've never built a CoreXY printer. In theory 0.9deg motors would give you more precise positioning, but in practice I doubt you will be able to detect any difference.

Nema 17 motors should be adequate for your printer. The additional mass of the longer belts and longer/thicker CF tubes won't need that much extra power. I suggest 17HM19-2004S or similar with 24V power.

Not much distance, just enough to tuck it safely out of the way (like behind the screen) 3 inches max I guess. I think the cable i got is about 8 inches which might be the problem.

DC - is there anyway I can check its the correct type without it swapping pins visually before I buy?

@T3P3Tony:

cchaffee, ignore my previous comment, Tim is all over this.

Great, thanks guys. I will stand by and await further instructions.

That sounds feasible. However, I think it's simpler to route everything through the 10-way ribbon cable. If your Duet WiFi PCB is version 1.01 then it already has the transmit, receive and +5V lines connected to the CONN_SD socket. Then all you need to do is to jumper those pins on the back of the PanelDue board from the ribbon cable connector to the 4-pin connector.

BTW, you can buy a cheap buck converter off of amazon or something and run it at 5v or whatever voltage you need. The cheap ones can run a few fans. This would also allow you to slightly overvolt the noctua if necessary (be careful).

If the solenoid draws no more than about 1.5A, you could connect it to a fan output. But you must connect a flyback diode in parallel with the solenoid to protect the MOSFET.

I'm surprised that the IP address keeps changing. I've had 3 Duet WiFi boards on my network, and my router always assigns them the same addresses. I think most routers work this way, they remember the last several MAC addresses that connected to them so that they can give then the same IP address when they reappear.

RepRapFirmware doesn't currently provide a standby mode. You can turn off the motors, heaters and fans to mimise the direct load from the VIN supply, but there isn't yet the facility to put the microcontroller itself into a low-power state. However, your RPi may draw more power than the Duet's processor, unless you can put it into a low power standby mode.

You could switch the power to the Duet, either using a SSR to switch the VIN input (if you still want to supply power to your 5V converter), or by switching the AC input to the PSU.

Another way would be to control the enable pin to the 5v regulator on the Duet. You can get at this pin via the 5V_EN jumper block. But you would need to take steps to put the TMC2660 drivers into standby first because the are powered from VIN.

The driver have thermal thermal protection, that switches the current off until the cool down and then switches them back on. This effect is similar is some ways to skipping steps. It does not immediately damage the board, however your print will have layer shifts and other nasties so its not a useful way to run the drivers. Also constantly running electronics right at its thermal limits will reduce its life over time.

Have a look at your motor data sheet, you may find that the 2.0A is @85C which is hot to run the motors at. At that temperature if you have your motors on printed mounts you may start to see softening of the plastic and the mounts will creep over time.

That is why most people run their motors well under rated current.

I am currently using a DIN-Rail Mount Long-Life High-Amp Relay, SPST-NO, 4-32V DC, 20A @ 600V AC,
6323T42 from mcmaster carr
I have had my keenova 110 AC bed running for the last 4 months.

Great you have got to the bottom of that, and good skills on the soldering!

The cartridge type thermistors that e3d use on their hotends are much easier to mount.

First off, THANK YOU! Really great to have a problem / question posted in the morning and have a really good solution / answer later in the day! Amazing support, I already love the Duet board but you just gave me another really good reason to recommend it to others. Community around software/hardware is so important.

@dc42:

That won't work because it doesn't provide a strong enough pulldown. Use the Z probe connector instead and adjust the resistor values.

I had read the page you linked seemingly 100s of times but it never occurred to me that I was using the wrong port! This is a really exciting suggestion because it provides a VERY good reason that my sensor output is wonky in the web UI.

Just to be super… ultra clear on which port I should be using... I made a little diagram...

ahh that may well bit. For clarification the PT100 chip cancels out the signals it sees on both wires on each side, if they are following different paths they are going to have different noise on them which will mess with the results.

Hello all,

I'm receiving the same error message "temperature reading fault on heater 1: open circuit". I replaced the fuse with a .25 amp fast acting fuse and 5 x 20 fuse holder, but that didn't work either. I made sure to solder the fuse to the same spot user "cap" did in this thread: https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=247. This is on my new kossel XL with the duet wifi. Everything was working fine until i replaced one of my fans on my hotend. I accidentally had it wired wrong and it burnt out the fan. Though the hot end was still heating up fine. It wasn't until i got the new fan, replaced it, that i started to get the above error message. When i checked my hotend for a short i indeed saw that the back of my z sensor board was touching the hotend. Fixing that and the fuse i assumed would be the end of it but the message remains. Even after resetting the hotend in the duet web control with command M562 P1.

thoughts?

I'm wondering if buying a different heated bed with a higher resistance would be the better way to go:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Printer-Aluminium-Heated-Bed-Heatbed-MK3-12V-For-RepRap-Prusa-Delta-rostock-/231358142820?hash=item35de051964:g:5l4AAOSwPe1UDscs

With 4 ohm of resistance that equates to 144w and so a total of around 280w with a happy amount of wiggle room lending itself nicely to a MeanWell 300w PSU. Possibly I have just answered my own question….......

@someuniqname:

hahahahaha seems i earned this weekends looser price

for your entertainment: while upgrading i installed a fuse between psu and duet. that fuse is in a little box with an LED. actually the fuse should be in the box 🙂

essentially the duet got enough power to light the vin led but that was only what came via the addon led of the fuse. once i installed the fuse all is as expected 🙂

regards

Ok, sorry but that is too funny.

Jeff

Try connecting it with the series resistor direct to the 24V supply while you experiment with the resistor value. I suggest you start with about 500 ohms.

Ok, I'm still processing all this but it seems to be working. As usual operator error. Thanks to dc42 for providing me with enough information to figure out my mistake on the FSR and StephenRC for the homing issue.

1. Had endstop plugged into E1 not E0 my stupidity and maybe a bit of dyslexia as I get tired.
….....as viewed on board
E1-Therm E0-Therm E1-Stop [E0-Stop] X-Stop Y-Stop Z-Stop

2. But I had to change I1 (low) to I0 (high) to get it to work but I thought this had to be inverted (low) to work. Not going to question it at the moment will dig into it later to understand my error in thinking.

The following is the current LED action and seems correct:
Now it's green light JohnSL….red light duet when not triggered
red light JohnSL....off at duet when triggered

and the G30 and G32 cmds appear to be working.

Hopefully, I've now got this animal working correctly and I can revert back to reading posts and not making them.

Thanks to All, its been a big help and learning process.

Thanks,

Ed