Try this

G91 ; relative mode G1 H2 Z10 F200 ; raise head to avoid dragging nozzle over the bed G1 H1 X-350 F3000 ; move up to 240mm in the -X direction, stopping if the homing switch is triggered G1 X4 F600 ; move slowly 4mm in the +X direction G1 H1 X-10 ; move slowly 10mm in the -X direction, stopping at the homing switch G1 H1 Y300 F3000 ; move up to 240mm in the Y direction, stopping if the homing switch is triggered G1 Y-4 F600 ; move slowly 4mm in the -Y direction G1 H1 Y10 ; move slowly 10mm in the Y direction, stopping at the homing switch ;G1 Z-300 F3000 S1 ; move up to 240mm in the -Z direction, stopping if the homing switch is triggered ;G1 Z4 F600 ; move slowly 4mm in the +Z direction ;G1 Z-10 S1 ; move slowly 10mm in the -Z direction, stopping at the homing switch G90 ; back to absolute mode G1 X20 Y180 F3600 ; Move to position on glass. G4 P1000 ; Wait one second to let probe clear. ; G30 ; Home Z with probe ; G1 Z10 F3600 G1 X150 Y100 ; center M280 P3 S90 I1 ; reset probe G30 G90 ; absolute positioning G1 Z20 F4000 M280 P3 S90 I1 ; reset probe

@Coded-Games said in G29 does not deploy BL Touch (Duet Wifi 1.02):

M584 X1 Y0

YOu'll need to finish defining all of the drivers in M584, and the M584 command needs to be moved higher up in the file. Like right above the M350 command.

@Coded-Games said in G29 does not deploy BL Touch (Duet Wifi 1.02):

M574 X1 Y2 Z1 S1 ; set homing switch configuration

This command is no longer valid in RRF3.

See here: https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m574-set-endstop-configuration

You may want to generate a new config file set using the online config tool to see what a modern config set looks like for comparison.

https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start

I found the error, i got the firmware from a friend and he used a Chamber heater that is allways on. I turned it off and everything is fine now

@JamesM Thank you, that's what it was. I had a 10amp AC plug sitting here. Switched it out and it worked. Got my pid tuning finally done.

@droftarts said in show and connect to available SSIDs through paneldue:

@dc42 could M557 show available Wi-Fi networks (plus signal strength) as well as remembered?

Ian

We would need to have a separate command (M552 S3?) to do a network scan and then return the results. It involves changes to the wifi server firmware as well as RRF (and PanelDue if you want to display it there). I'll add it to the work list.

Well, I took the plunge and updated to firmware 3.1.1

A few things were a royal pain, things that I'd tuned that needed finding and re-entering. Like extruder steps that were entirely wrong. There didn't seem to be a spot in the configurator for using 2 motor drives for the Z axis, Pressure advance needed tuning, and it scared the crap outta me when it said that the heat bed was faulting. (PID tuning needed to happen again.) All that stuff I figured out 2 years ago and have since forgotten.

So far, so good.

@e4d Sorry, It's been a while and I don't have that on my latest laptop. I'll give a search on my home server when I get a chance to see if I may have backed it up.
But, give a look at the caribou github - variants from duet 2 and 3mini exist.
https://github.com/Caribou3d/CaribouCartesian/tree/master/STL/01_full-kits/Frame/Duet

Hope that helps!

@bearer said in Duet3 setup requirements for 3D printer:

Slightly OT, but as the Pi image has a FAT /boot partition it could possibly contain the default standalone config and files so the same card could maybe cover both use cases.

That's really clever.

sorry i just realized how the setup is one.

are the switches NO or NC?

i would try to wire them in parallel and use M558 P5

they will need to be connected to the z probe port.

but a construct would allow the printhead to move. this would not be beneficial for the print quality.

There is also this that may be usefull https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M675_Find_center_of_cavity

@hamiltonprops From re- reading your OP, you say that the temperature drops 20 degrees within a second or two. That would indicate it's not a "real" drop in temperature but rather a drop in the indicated (measured) temperature - unless your hot end has an insanely low thermal mass. So, yes I go for some sort of cross talk or electrical "noise". Are you sure you haven't got a bad crimp on the thermistor wiring somewhere?

Can you post your M558 line? You should be using P8 with a threshold of 500, the signal range is between 0 and 1000.

Can you tune the Uni v2.75 so that the blue led is lit and then see what the reported value is?

Idris

If you use long wires, or you will have connectors in the cable, then 4 wires is best. If the cable is short with no connectors except where you connect it to the PT100 and the daughter board, then 2 wires is sufficient.