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    Topics created by DjDemonD

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Going travelling, selling some Duet powered printers...

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Just to say the corexy has now been dismantled and the parts are available separately:
      https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/therealdjdemond/m.html

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Who wants some dead hardware to play with/repair

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Hi Guys, both duet wifis now gone thanks for your interest.

      I have one paneldue controller card left.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Delta Travel limits

      Firmware wishlist
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Thanks Tony, so keep out areas are for the time being a wishlist item? Sounds good.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Crane Quad printer

      General Discussion
      • full colour 3d printer • • DjDemonD
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      deckingmanundefined

      @djdemond said in Crane Quad printer:

      Okay this one is for Ian (@deckingman) what do you make of this? https://all3dp.com/1/m3d-crane-quad-review-full-color-3d-printer/

      How do you think they are mixing the filaments?

      Plus the price point is very low, and this seems very ambitious by M3D who did not make a great printer in the Micro....

      Hi Simon,

      Let's just say that I've been having conversations with Michael Armani and that I might be in a position to offer an informed opinion at some future date.

      Beyond that, I wouldn't want to comment further.

      Cheers

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Might have finally killed a DuetWifi

      Duet Hardware and wiring
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      DjDemonDundefined

      So all back up and running. 🙂

      Just to mention that despite the widespread damage the PT100 daughterboard survived. 🙂

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Has anyone seen the post about using stall detect as a z probe?

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      No its okay Tony I must have been typing incorrect search terms.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Odd behaviour with 4.3inch screen

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      An update to this, if I run the genuine Paneldue/Chinese screen combo from external usb power via the Paneldue usb port it works fine no interference or erratic temperature readings. I tried running it from the INT 5v jumper but this did not work.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Odd error - Error: M32: GCode file "***************" not found

      General Discussion
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      dc42undefined

      @dragonn:

      You used 1.17 firmware with Web Control v1.21? Well I don't think this is a good idea.

      Yes, that's the reason.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      New Product Release - Precision Piezo Orion

      Third-party add-ons
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      garyd9undefined

      New Orion user - first impressions and feedback...
      (This is fairly long, so if you're only interested in the Orion itself, please skip 3 paragraphs.)

      I had been using a Titan Aero direct drive extruder on my delta printer, with FSRs for bed leveling. While others have had great success with FSRs, I haven't been so lucky. With the FSRs on my printer, things were inconsistent enough that even 2 days after manually setting the trigger heights on every location in bed.g, I'd end up with a not quite "flat" Z plane (which, as far as I can tell, is a result of duet auto-calibration and inconsistent Z probe triggering.) I actually had better luck using probe type "0" and manually finding Z0 on auto-calibrations (and then NOT doing an auto-calibration each build.)

      My first idea for "fixing" this was to somehow get a precision piezo system working with the titan aero. However, that's really not easy when the titan aero (and stepper) is hanging from a delta effector. I'm sure someone with better mechanical engineering skills than I possess would be able to figure it out, but I took an easier way out:

      I purchased the precision piezo orion, and "downgraded" my titan aero to a simple titan extruder with a genuine E3D V6 heatsink/hot end. I lost about 44mm of build height in doing this (which leaves me with a mere 411mm in the center of the delta and about 50mm less at the edges.) I see/hear no performance or noise difference whatsoever in regards to the extruder/heatsink setup. I will mention that I've seen two benefits of the "downgrade": First, I prefer the more controlled airflow of the heatsink fan and second, I like that I can actually see the tension adjustment in the little titan extruder window.

      As for the Orion itself, my very first impression was NOT positive. In order to properly attach the base part of the orion to the genuine E3D heat sink, I actually had to clamp it closed with a pair of vice-grips. Without doing that, the orion "sandwich" wouldn't go together as the 4 holes wouldn't line up. This was much more force than I expected to have to use and I'm relieved that the plastic didn't break as a result. (The inside of the base piece didn't seem to have any stray plastic in the channel for the heatsink. It just looks like the gap/channel might be very slightly too small.)

      However, once I got things physically assembled, I have to admit that this thing is absolutely incredible (at least compared to my experience with FSRs.) My first attempt had the sensitivity a bit too high, and the V6 heatsink fan vibration would trigger the piezo. After turning that down a bit, I have an extremely consistent trigger height of 0.065 +/- 0.002mm with a 195C nozzle pressing on a 65C PEI/glass/aluminum heated bed. (I've actually adjusted the trigger height to 0.068 in my G31 in order to produce a very near perfect first layer height.)

      Not only is the trigger height consistent, it's consistent all over my heated bed. The entire 300mm diameter plate has the same trigger height. I no longer need any "H" parameters in my bed.g file, and I can actually use mesh compensation if I want to. My method of checking consistency was to check the trigger height at each of the locations used in bed.g, and the ultimate test of printing several single layer, single line/wall "rings" around the build the plate, letting it cool, pulling it off, and spot checking with calipers.

      I have to admit - I'm impressed. Thank you, Idris.

      0_1542575849389_20181118_153602 - Copy.jpg

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Static IP [solved]

      Tuning and tweaking
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      gavatron3000undefined

      Another way is to set the Mac address in the router to have a specific address. I had to do this due to not being able to access the internet through my pi for updates. And it's easy as to do.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Why am I seeing this?

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Great spot David thanks.

      Just curious though until I upgraded to 1.21rcx it didn't throw a warning about this.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      UPS mods

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Sounds great but that's a bit above my digital skills. Although I do work with a much more capable engineer at Precision Piezo. That specific UPS doesn't automatically run a self test unless I specify one, but I'm hoping this system will be able to be set for 2 minutes, and any interruption in the mains, less than 2 minutes won't trigger the endstop input as the timer won't have reached the end of its countdown, and therefore won't put the printers (I have 2 or 3 that I want to connect to the UPS) into pause mode, so its essentially a non-event.

      I'm not sure it has a serial port.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Power relay

      Duet Hardware and wiring
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      Jacotheronundefined

      Sorry for hijacking this thread, but this might also help others. I am planning to use a very similar relay module (as pictured in the first post), for my printer (supplied from 24V power supply). The difference is that on mine, the trigger for the relay is the center pin. So recapping: it is non opto-isolated 5V coil side, though driven from the 5V via a transistor and not the signal pin and the relay coil have a diode as support.

      I just want to confirm that my planned schematic for a small board is going to work as I expect it to.
      0_1523304616058_DuetWifi_PSON Inverter_schem.png

      Basically in short, we have 24V coming in and then being regulated to 5V (7805 regulator). The 5V is then supplied to the 5V near the PS_ON pin. The 5V is also used to pull the PS_ON to 5V (using a 10k pull-up resistor) [I understand that the PS_ON is not actually pulled high inside the DuetWifi, since the ATX PSU usually does it]. The R1, R2 and Q1(547B transistor) works to invert the signal (since the DuetWifi PS_ON On signal is actually LOW, and my module needs a HIGH). Finally the 5V and inverted signal is fed to the Relay Module. Note that R5 is simply a link aka 0Ohm resistor (needed in the board design).

      The second part is an optional part in which I try to increase the time the printer can perform the save/resume when power is lost during a print. The SuperCap is a 1F capacitor for 5.5V, which is charged via a 220Ohm resistor (this means it takes 220s to fully charge upto 5V, but should not blow the regulator). If you want to do something similar, you will need to use the External 5V jumper, otherwise it will simply not work.

      Now my few questions:

      Should the relay circuit work? Are there any required changes for this? The super cap, will it be able to power the board via the 220Ohm resistor, or how can I ensure it charges via the resistor, but not discharge via it (I considered a diode, but then the voltage drop [though the 220r resistor might give an even greater voltage drop]).

      Some extra info that might be useful: in my setup I have the 5" PanelDue, I am using only a single extruder (PT100 sensor) with a heatbed (10k thermistor) and the IR Probe. I have a bypass switch, with which the PSU will get power, startup and enable the relay.

      As to the question of the SSR above, I considered using one, but decided against it. Ultimately it is your decision, however you should keep in mind that an SSR fail closed (i.e. it lets the full power through). SSRs are not recommended for important circuitry, especially as the only switch (thus you need at least a switch before it, so that you can safely shut down the printer in case of a failure). That said, failures of the SSRs are not very common (as long as you have a reputable brand) and chances of it failing with a mosfet for one of your heaters are extremely slim (that is mostly the worst case scenario*).

      *The firmware does not currently allow a shutdown if it detects such an issue, but it have been discussed as a possible feature for the future (will need a debugging log that can persist after shutdown).

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Fans and stuff improvements…

      Hardware wishlist
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      dc42undefined

      @noskillzengineer said in Fans and stuff improvements…:

      In my experience, 4 wire fans have physical switches, likely because of control on the fan itself, that is responsible for the speed control of the fan.

      I have never used a 4-wire fan with a physical switch. I have 2 of them in the PC that I am using, and some more on the bench that I have tested with various Duet-based controller electronics.

      PWM is PWM whether it is controlled by hardware alone (which would be very unusual these days) or by software.

      Why support 4? If your response means 4 pin headers like PC fan headers that will also run two and three fans/motors, then no issues here.

      There are two problems with controlling the a speed of 3-wire fans:

      Most of them were never designed to have PWM applied to the power feed to them. You won't find any PCs using PWM to control the power feed to a 3-wire fan. It's remarkable that so many 2- and 3-wire fans tolerate PWM at all.

      If you PWM the supply to a 3-wire fan then the output from the tacho wire is no longer reliable, because the tacho sensor depends on receiving continuous power. So the tacho reading would be wrong except at full speed.

      4-wire fans are designed to work with PWM, so they are a much better choice if you want variable speed and RPM sensing. OTOH we could provide a 3-wire always-on (or just on/off) fan connector if users want that.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Issue with Smarteffector

      Smart effector for delta printers
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      DjDemonDundefined

      I'll check those thanks.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Haydn magnet arms any going spare you want to sell?

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      I found some magnets to try, quite looking forward to making some arms up. Would still buy some though if anyone has any spare.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Caution when fitting a mount or adaptor to the 3 holes in the SE

      Smart effector for delta printers
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Am now trying this one instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2740387
      As having the nut trap for the large nut is really useful.

      EDIT - seems to work okay. Sensitivity is normal.

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Resume working well.

      General Discussion
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      No one has replied

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Leadscrew or ballscrew delta

      General Discussion
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      Danalundefined

      And... if you want to be REALLY different, have you considered this delta mechanical setup? Those are servos up top. Fast, beefy, servos.

      https://youtu.be/Ec3Vf8Ip4Ic?t=17

    • DjDemonDundefined

      Grid levelling question

      General Discussion
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      DjDemonDundefined

      Clever, thank you for the reply, I appreciate there are bigger fish to fry right now with the FW issues.