Topics created by Fickert

@Fickert Great, glad you managed to resolve the problem.

Ian

@phaedrux great, thank you. Now to fine one that is in stock. Seems to be bigger challenge than I'd expect.

@o_lampe said in Duet3 Incorporation with Roll2Roll Manufacturing:

@t3p3tony If they'd pretend that the encoder represents closed loop signals of the Y-axis, they only have to invert the counter measures => More pulses from the encoder increase Y speed instead of lowering

That"ll work when X-motion and Y-motion have fixed ratio.

Thats what sparked this idea, but hoping we could gain more freedom than having the ratios between the two axis similar, or fixed.

The negative lead of the fan needs to be directly connected to the negative terminal of the fan header because PWM is switched on the negative side.

See here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans#Section_Using_12V_fans_when_VIN_is_24V

@shadowphile said in AIR PUMP USERS please chime in 🙂:

@Dougal1957 The pumps I got off Amazon were way too weak but I trusted what you said and ordered that diaphragm pump because its so cheap! I have to run it through about 6 feet of narrow tubing (100cm high delta) so we will see if it can maintain enough airflow and pressure. My air-brush compressor, albeit WAY oversized, is super quiet and gobs of pressure/airflow.

I used 5mm bore 8mm o/d silicon tube reducing to 2 mm bore or so (RC model fuel tubing) used one of these fittings to couple the 2 together at the effector end also a 1mtr tall delta

Preferably, either choose Nema 23 motors with a lower rated current (e.g. 2.8A), or use Duet 3 to drive the 4A ones.

You can estimate the maximum speed using the EMF calculator at repeapfirmware.org.

@Danal said in What is the current of a Duet Wifi? 2.4A or 4A?:

They never use the words "active" or "passive" or similar. They do say that you must validate cooling in your design.

they as in trinamic, no, but they as in duet3d yes

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Mounting_and_cooling_the_board#Section_Cooling

Always use a cooling fan if you run a Duet 2 Wifi or Duet 2 Ethernet above 2.0A motor current.

I think It would be a good idea if a Duet3 CNC oriented board came out. RRF is great, and very easy to use, but as mentioned before all the boards are very 3D printer oriented.
I would like to have a Duet3 without drivers, thermistor inputs and heater outputs and instead have dir/step outputs and ethercat for the use of industrial servos. Another missing feature is an encoder input for a spindle, needed to do hard threading, and an addon board with isolated inputs and outputs needed for a CNC. Also an MPG input.
Software side, there are no fixed cycles (for now at least), which is not very necessary for a mill (or a router), except for drilling cycles, but it is really used on lathes, also tool radius compensation is needed for a lathe. Otherwise, everything needs to be done on CAM.

So it was odd, last night I used a new profile in Simplify3D I didn't have my trigger gcode setup with yet. Set it up and did nothing else, and it began working. But the gcode in the other profiles are the same? Will have to investigate further but for now I know what I have at least works now 🙂

I guess, it's not speed but acceleration one has to think about - then It is clearer, at least for me 🙂

Yesterday, I tried how a piezo speaker I had lying around might react by gluing one onto the frame holding my printbed, roughly where the Andromeda would be mounted if I followed my initial idea. It turned out my spings are too stiff: the bed spring would rather bend the frame if I pressed onto the bed instead of giving in - and the piezo would barely detect anything.

After some attempts on how to fit everything into the available space (my printer has just 32mm beneath the printing surface with the z-axis being at its lower limit and the printer housing, meaning 13mm for the Andromeda and the adjustment screw), as far away as possible from the heating element and still keeping the adjustment screws accessible, the whole design - with the piezos nicely covered with a housing - looks like this now:

Druckbett.png
(the thin aluminum plate is L-shaped to give it more stiffness; that is cut away in the view. So it not quite as flimsy as it might look)

While this means I will have to drill some more holes into the z-axis frame, I definitely will see a signal now whenever I tap onto the bed with something. Now It's up to finding the correct settings for sensitivity - as soon as the sensors have arrived and I have assembled all this. Some miniature coaxial cable is also ordered 🙂

When this is running, I want to find a way if I can use the Piezos as "second" z-endstop (i.e. z-endstop controlled by the piezo elements - but in case these fail for some reason, the exisiting less precise endstop detection should kick a bit above that and force the Duet to retry...) but I will open a new thread for that topic unless I find something here in the forum.

@Fickert said in Rewired Printer, Stall homing no longer works:

I shortened the wires and repinned them, now with the printer fully assembled everything is working just like it should, EXCEPT the stall homing on the X and Y. When I home it immediately stall detects its position.

Two things:

In your homing files, use G1 H2 commands to move the axes at least one full step away form the physical endstops before you execute the homing move. This resets the status to not-stalled if they were stalled to begin with.

If that doesn't help, try increasing the S parameter (stall detection threshold) a little in your M915 commands.

Quick update, I removed the M574 commands at the end of the script for homeall.g

Still didn't work. So I looked around in my config.g and I do have M574 X Y S3, but I also had my endstops programmed as "M574 X2 Y2 S3" which I think puts the endstops at max correct? So I changed that to "X1" and "Y1" and seems to be fixed. Small mistake from messing around with the stall homing apparently.

linear rails are not meant to be used without support. especially mgn12 ones.

Here's what I had from back when I experimented with Stall guard on the Z axis. It worked, but as I said the behaviour would change with motor temp. Z axis was a single 1.8 degree motor, 1:1 ratio with 1mm lead/pitch single start lead screw.

Might have worked better with active cooling on the Z motor to reduce the temp issue. and using a 0.9 degree motor might have helped as well.

; 2_ZStallProbe.g ; ; Uses the Z axis StallGuard detection as a Z-Probe ; M291 P"Are you sure you want to proceed?" R"StallGuard Z-Probe" S3 M280 P3 S160 I1 ; Alarm Release and Push-Pin UP, inverted signal G28 G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X150 Y150 Z3 F4000 ; Always probe on the same spot M558 P9 Z0 ; Disable BLTouch M558 P10 X0 Y0 Z1 H3 F200 T6000 A10 R0.1 S0.005 ; Enable Stall Z probe G31 X0 Y0 Z0 P200 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger offset (overshoot due to springs) M574 Z1 S3 ; set Z-min to use motor StallGuard M913 Z40 ; reduce motor current to 20% M201 Z20 ; Reduce acceleration mm/s2 M915 Z S4 F0 R0 ; Set StallGuard sensitivity for endstop homing M291 P"StallGuard Z-Probe Settings Loaded. Proceed with Probe?" R"Yes or No?" S3 M400 G30 S-1 ; Find the bed Z=0 reference G1 Z3 G30 S-1 ; do a couple of repeatability tests G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 ; Find the bed Z=0 reference G1 Z3 G30 S-1 ; do a couple of repeatability tests G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 G30 S-1 G1 Z3 M400 M280 P3 S160 I1 ; Alarm Release and Push-Pin UP, inverted signal M291 P"Probing complete. Restoring settings." S3 M913 Z100 ; restore current to 100% M201 Z300 ; Restore acceleration M915 Z S63 F1 R0 ; Set StallGuard sensitivity for normal movement M574 Z1 S2 ; Use zprobe and home to Z Min. M558 P9 X0 Y0 Z1 H3 F100 T6000 A10 R0.5 S0.005 ; P9 for BLTouch, dive height 3mm, probe at 100mm/s, travel 6000mm/s, up to 10 probes, pause 0.5s G31 X-41.8 Y32.2 Z2.3 P25 ; probe offset from nozzle, p is trigger value, set low for bltouch, set Z=0 for testing

@Fickert said in Power an 8.4v Fan from Variable speed fan header?:

Is it possible to control a 8.4v fan? Can I specify a current output to match 8.4v from my native 24v?

Yes and no? You can chop the 24 volt output and get 8.4v average, but it'll still be 24v pulses so odds are it'll fry any driver electronics in the fan.

Easiest is to get a DC-DC converter to create a positive 8.4v output and use the switched ground from the fan output. It's described in detail in the wiki

Yes it's 192.168.1.1 when it's in access point mode.

@Fickert Looks good.

@Fickert, unless you are and OEM customer and the questions you want to ask are confidential, please ask them on the forum. There is already a thread about Duet 3.

@fickert said in Stall homing: Is it less accurate with a 24v supply vs 12v?:

I am not super familiar with EMF but if it isn't using current as its measuring parameter then that is all I was concerned with.

As for the high inductance motors, is there something specific I would need to search for to determine a high inductance motor vs a standard/low inductance motor? I am looking to use a 0.9 degree stepper on my z axis, is there something else I should be shooting for?

Lower current motors have higher inductance. For the Duet WiFi/Ethernet, choose motors with a rated current of at least 1A, preferably a little higher. There are motors available with rated currents of 1.2A and 1.33A.

High inductance motors limit the maximum speed you can use before torque starts to drop off and stall detection stops working, but using 24V power instead of 12V mitigates this.