Still waiting for a few parts - but basic Phase1 structure now complete - just needs to be belted up.

Next step if to belt up both gantries and try running the original front gantry using the existing Klipper board just to see if it still works with the new belt routing and the 2nd gantry in the back.

Still awaiting Mini 5 Duet Board delivery - but rest of boards arrived ok.

Have used smaller New

2nd extruder on back gantry just there for illustration purposes of size target - it is a Bowden extruder from the WeedoX40 donor machine.

750BF08B-082E-4DF8-A521-8C19F8447822.jpeg

FC42A41D-E40D-485F-8AB7-F13675776E3D_1_201_a.jpeg

D4298745-1942-4AA5-AE6A-869E4A7F5B04.jpeg

@o_lampe Nozzle right now seating at +7.8mm height from bottom of XY-top, which I will need to lower to +2mm height by adding 6mm length on extruder back-plate to move it slightly lower. Then bed only need to "extend" over Z-bottom by 2mm, which is already achieved.

I'm going to print testing parts of XY this week to test it out, and see if any adjustment needed to the design.

@martinv

Hey Martin, I haven't tried playing around with the carriages yet. I don't think I'll bother with that, as I'd probably just upgrade to linear rails instead. I was contemplating that on this recent set of upgrades, but haven't decided if I'll bother.

The best change I've made so far was upgrading to a 0.9° stepper motor on the drive axes. It really made the prints come out quite a bit nicer. The switch to a whambam PC sheet also helped a lot.

Getting rid of the flying extruder in this recent set of mods has also helped the quality quite a bit, as the fast prints would make the Bondtech knockoff I had before swing around a bunch, causing artifacts at speed. I even noticed this during my autolevelling, the extruder moving would sometime make the levelling irregular, so I had to have a pause before each probe. It was annoying.

For high quality prints before, I used to stick to 30mm/s. Now 50-60 mm/s seems to be fine. I haven't pushed it much faster. I'm pretty sure I can move up to 100 mm/s and get decent quality now, but honestly most of my mods were to make the printer quieter rather than faster.

I'll let you know when I figure out my Orbiter mount. It should be in the next month or so when I get some time.

@martinv

I've also got a Little Monster. I think they're fairly popular on here because a lot of people replaced the stock electronics on them.

They're very good at making large vases.

@magnets99 I’d think you could do the same thing with a BLTouch for 3D shapes, as the sensitivity and repeatability is usually around 0.01mm. However, if it’s a 2D shape that you’re trying to get the outline of, like a PCB, I’d think keeping it simple and using a scanner, or taking a photo of it, would be simpler and faster.

Ian

well i think i got my layout all done now , had to go with some smaller cable tray for the top since i was a bit space restricted but it should be enough . fun part to come is to wire everything which is gonna be interesting lol , main duet will be on the right and expansion board on the left . both will have a 120mm fan to cool off the mobo . on top of the 3x120 sucking air for the radiator .

IMG_20241228_161145754.jpg

@o_lampe this was just for the show, to make it transportable. Using the whiteboard was convenient for demonstration purposes. Now it’s back home, I’m going to mount it to the wall, and see how it draws then. In the past, the board it was mounted on was always laid back a few degrees, which may both help and hinder drawing, by increasing the pressure on the pen.

It’s still not very precise, least accurate at the limits of its range by 1-2mm perhaps. I need to tune the speeds and accelerations a bit more, but we did find at the show that some low frequency, broad band input shaping helped with belt wobble a bit.

I could mount two more motors at the bottom, if I went back to using a full sheet board, but then I’d have to deal with winding the belts/cables onto a spool, and redesign the gondola to have 4 arms. 3 points would limit the drawing area.

It may be that something like the original CoreXY ‘Bot of the Cloth’ would make a better, more accurate, portable plotter. https://corexy.com/botofthecloth/index.html

Ian

@spiceminer a search reveals other owners, and posts related to Caribou machines. See https://forum.duet3d.com/search?in=titlesposts&term=Caribou&matchWords=all&by=&categories=&searchChildren=false&hasTags=&replies=&repliesFilter=atleast&timeFilter=newer&timeRange=&sortBy=timestamp&sortDirection=desc&showAs=posts

Feel free to ask the questions anyway!

Ian

@o_lampe that is a good observation:). There is an eye icon in the bottom right corner which opens up the usual DWC top panel (this is a feature of the BtnCmd plugin).

Screenshot 2024-11-08 at 14.33.03.png

And if you press the little button with the message bobble icon, it echoes the current polar coordinates to the console.

Screenshot 2024-11-08 at 14.34.45.png

@ander , I made all my videos private, but I forgot I had those 2 videos shared here, I made them public again

@Manrhpg1 Do you mean Ivan Miranda ?
which printer model did you follow, and what files did you download from his website.

Duets need to have the end switches to be homed before any other movements are normally recognised, you can get around this by M commands used in the console area of DWC control panel.

You can if you wish contact me directly and we can have a video chat and you can show me what you have got, I would be happy to try and help you and advise accordingly.

Where are you based in the world and we can arrange a meet on WhatsApp.

Contact me on WhatsApp Shaun Richards

@dwak you may still want to peruse the documentation on metacommands so you get an idea how to enable your own codes with parameters

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcode_meta_commands

@lightface79 hi, have you found anything regarding colouring scheme of 120v psu?

@Zoltan3D some people may have work flows around Duet they use on other machines and prefer consistency. Some may prefer the standalone operations of RRF over Klipper's SBC dependency. Some people may prefer the reliability of Duet hardware. Some people may prefer DWC over the Moonraker front ends ....

many possible reasons, and as often in a hobby involving building stuff, the answer to 'why?' often is 'why not?'

and just for fun, here is a normal benchy printed on it 😛
IMG20240825183834.jpg
(for now I use 0.8mm nozzle, but sucessfully tested a custom made 1.6mm nozzle 😛

@Phaedrux Yes sorry, I don't do this message boards well. It was stabler. Got what I needed to install My SMuFF filament changer. So far only failure point is the Filament cutter. The SMuFF works perfectly. Scripts work without Crashing or giving me error codes not relating to my scripts. I am working on a Filament cutter using two blades from a Wire feed cutter. Had to poll my Direct drive from the Hotend to make room for the cutter. Bummer. But hot end is liter. Futcher add On's to the printer and 8-10 inch screen to the SBC in place of PanelDuo, posable bring back my direct drive extruder.

Note - This is not a Production Printer, just my retirement hobby

@fotomas thanks for sharing it!

@Pete_A Hi. Can you provide the information about Stratasys to duet interface board? Please provide the design file for it.

@MitchMitch you can generate a basic configuration using the reprap configurator as a baseline, to be tuned to your machine's peculiars