@sinole said in using 12v fan in 24v setup.:

everything other than noctua screams at you

D'accord. I think, your noctuas deserve a distinct 12V PSU - that's a clean solution, and they are worth it. Good luck! 👍

@kiendeleo BTW the reason we suggest a resistor instead of a direct connection is so that in the event of a short between the hot end metalwork and the hot end heater wires, you won't get a large fault current fed into the ground pin, which would likely damage the tool board.

@cossack

Start with the X axis.

You can view the state of the endstops with the Object Model viewer in the DWC. Or you can execute M119 from the DWC Console to see the current state of the endstops

With the endstop switch not pressed you want the endstop to show as not active.

Test the xstop option first.

If the endstop shows as active test the xstop (active low) option.

Given that your endstop device requires a VCC connection I don't think you will need either of the options with (pull-up) in the name.

Remember that after a change you will need to reboot or reset the printer to get the new settings to take effevct.

Frederick

Photo of what you see?

@tortuga said in Stepper motor wiring help:

@phaedrux I did follow that, but the result was a stepper motor that vibrated and didn't rotate at all, so I assume I must have the phases wired wrong.

I was right to think it was an obvious question, since I had it right. I just didn't have the current set high enough for the motor. Thank you Phaedrux for the help anyway.

Regardless of motor we recommend identifying the motor phase pairs. Then as long as the pairs are wired side by side you're good to go.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_connecting#identifying-the-stepper-motor-phases

@phaedrux That was the entire problem I just got back to the office changed it to him 669K0 and it completely solve the problem thanks for everyone’s help

@dc42 I'll definitely move to AC bed in the future for sure. For now I've put two layers of cork on the underside of the bed which has now increased my max bed temp up to 105C. Can heartily recommend this to anybody also struggling with this issue.

Ok,
Thanks you for all your reply
i will test to unscrew method

but ok if happen is not a problem i didn't know that

hmm is there a way to mark this thread solved ?

@martinnyhc what is the red Status LED on the tool board doing?

@georgiad AWESOME!!!

@marq01dee the Neopixel-style backlight on the Mini 12864 v2.1 display is included in the ribbon cable connections, but you need to activate it using M150.

@jay_s_uk NOW i got it 🙂 I think that's the way for me.

@phaedrux 20220426_124359.jpg
Thank You all! First testprints going on! So far so good. I removed the z endstop and replaced it with z-probe.

@rushmere3d Ah I see it was wired to v_in + gnd thats why it was always on with no control. Thank you so much! They are working fine now

@davyflint see the Duet 2 tab at https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_connecting_external#connection-options. You can pick up two sets of step and direction signals from the CONN_LCD connector.

@phaedrux said in Driver Errors Duet2 Railcore 3D Printer:

Please give more detail about what you did following that guide and what you saw.

What LEDs are lit up?
Does it show up as a bossa port? etc etc

Both the red and the green LEDs light up when connected to my laptop. The Diag LED flashes when plugged in but does not stay not on.

The port is named "Duet 2 WiFi or Duet 2 Ethernet 3D printer control electronics (COM7)"

I realized that the drivers were mapped wrong will redo and let’s you know

@alankilian Will do, if it still doesn't work, I'll probably replace the wires.

@alankilian The Y Motor works but it buzzes. The X Motor works fine. Both Z Motors are spinning in same direction but make sounds and act like the Y motors. I unplugged then re-plugged, and now Y works fine but X just buzzes