@dc42

Thanks so much - cannot wait to get my hands on it, meanwhile only using the duet2-ethernet to get somehow started with RRF3.x but as soon as it is out the company I work for, for sure like the "new" maestro/duet3-mini then because of price, because on the longrun there are quite a few anycubic here, with dying original mainboards (I think the board is called "gorilla" or something like this) over time...

@Veti

Yeah - half a year ago I couldn´t have imagined it, but recently my boss started playing around with Poly-Carbonat material and the printer sits in a chamber with heatplate reaching 120°C and extruder around 300°C... the chamber heats on long prints up (without any chamber-heater just because of heatplate and extruder) to around 60°C. You can build a printer with all motors outside, but as long as you have a direct-extruder this motor gets quite hot then -> One possiblity to extend its lifetime and avoid the the filament gets too soft too early in the extruder is an additional fan on the motor, that is driven via an additional thermistor attached to it that measures the quasi-chamber-temperature a few millimeters over the extruder motor...

On the other side when you print PLA at considerably lower temperatures for heatplate and extruder you do not need at all the fan for the directdrive-motor to run.

I hope this also explains why I do not want to wire it together with the heatbreak-fan. Also they are quite diffrent in size and power and first test have shown that they need completely different pwm-values if I want to use pwm. The only way to have them work realiable if driven via one single fan-port/-pin, is to make it 0/1...

a cheap chinese thermistor + fan is around 3-5 euro which is the same as a beer in the next "biergarten"(beer-garden), so it is mainly something to play around.

Hope that explains it well

From memory I think when using shielded wires a metal enclosure is intended, and to terminate the shield at he enclosure in a 5-pin connector, running unshielded wires inside the enclosure.

however why there is a ground lug for the ethernet is another matter all togheter.

@LB said in Encoder wheel/button @ Paneldue:

just wanted to "vote 1 up", that in my opinion especially for something like the entry-board like the maestro, an entry level priced minimal-interface like those little (non touch-) screens with an encoder wheel would be a nice companion!

The Maestro already supports 12864-style displays with encoder using the ST7920 controller chip.

@ericlmccormick said in Duet with Hotend breakout boards:

Any chance of a header that gives the Duet2wifi and Duet2Maestro CAN ability so that the toolboard can be used on those systems?

No unfortunately not.

@bot said in Duet 2 Pro 4 U:

What would be the differentiation between this and the Duet2 Eth/Wifi?

there seems to be at least 0.5mm more clearance between the fan header and the fan mosfet - so much easier to repair >D

@oliof said in Smart Tool Board:

rectangular

💡 i could get behind that - but it would probaly need to pretty much be a load cell and flex in just one direction methinks.

i have a couple of weeks with just one hand, hopefully I'll have a hemera, and one of those generic SammyC21 boards to play with when the other hand is back in business, maybe I can sketch out something in the meanwhile

Lowracer. I'm interested in converting my um2+ extended to DUET Wifi as well. Did you follow a tutorial or just figure it out yourself?

I'm scared to mess things up.

Thanks!

if you're in a hurry and wanna do a little DIY ref
https://forum.duet3d.com/post/155634

To make it work I think you'd need a few things...

Because there are so many combinations of I/O what you could do to minimize the number of SKUs would be to create maybe a 1, 2, 4, 6 position carrier board, then single function daughterboards, one stepper driver, one A/D I/O, one thermistor, one low power PWM, one high power PWM, etc. So for an XY stepper with endstop, you run power and CAN to a 2 position carrier and plop a stepper and A/D I/O daughterboard on. For a Z motor, you use a single position carrier. A hotend might use a 4 position carrier, etc.

The other issue is software related... Need to make sure that throughput on the bus is fast enough that a device like an endstop can on one carrier can trigger a motor stop on another in a reasonable amount of time.

It seems to me like this is a lot of technology for something that only requires a simple current limiting circuit. I do not however have a better solution to offer.

The only times I have seen the mosfet driver chip fail, they failed short circuit. I have never seen a mosfet driver chip fail with an open circuit output.

Actually 6 conductors go to the head: 2 power wires and 2 twisted pairs for CAN. But I'm hoping we will be able to eliminate the second twisted pair in most situations.

@dc42 said in Have some pity.:

e than one fan output isn't working, either the fuse ble

Thanks man.

@T3P3Tony said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion:

@gtj0 the 5V disable on expansion was to allow for turning elements of for EMI testing on the prototypes. don't feed 5V into that.

Nah, I wasn't planning to feed 5v there. I don't see the wiring diagram for the expansion board so I was really wondering if that disabled the 5v regulator and might allow us to feed 5v via another pin.

Its a good point about not having an external 5V supply. for low current only applications it might be possible to do as you suggest and send power down the 1&6 connectors on the RJ11 but we don't plan to currently.

Just a thought for the future.

@dc42 said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion:

What would be the purpose of keeping the expansion boards powered with 5V? And what is the purpose of turning off VIN power but keeping 5V?

Same as for the mainboard. Keep the electronics hot but save power by turning off Vin. Also for letting the kinematics "freewheel" it's easier to do a M81/M80 or click a button on the DWC than issue an M18, then a zero move to start them again. And for keeping the sensors active of course. Without Vin on the expansion board, you'd lose its temps, endstops, etc.but you'd still have them on the mainboard. Oh yeah, you can't update firmware without Vin on the expansion board but you can on the mainboard.

One final comment on faster heatup - go 120V AC. I did and I love it!
Of course you need to replace the heating pad and you need a relay (SSR recommendedl) and an over temp fuse is recommended.
With a Creality CR10 the warm up time was excessive and maximum temp was limited to about 60C if I recall correctly. It took something like 30 minutes to get there ! I now enjoy heatup to 60C in maybe 2 minutes. Waiting drove me insane before the upgrade.
You can run an SSR directly from the old heater output that used to power the 12V bed.
Good luck!

This is very much on our radar, and is one of the reasons why we don't have an external stepper expansion board for Duet 3 yet. It's not as easy as it sounds, because at 3D printer speeds and resolutions the quadrature signals arrive at quite high frequencies, so it's not practical to use the main microcontroller to capture them using ordinary pin inputs.

@JoergS5 Yes but that does not need to happen in real time, just around about the same time.