changing the name did the trick. Thanks! I will now update the firmware anyway. I find it curious that the G28 Z command dis actually work.

@bot said in Duet 2 Pro 4 U: What would be the differentiation between this and the Duet2 Eth/Wifi? there seems to be at least 0.5mm more clearance between the fan header and the fan mosfet - so much easier to repair >D

@oliof said in Smart Tool Board: rectangular i could get behind that - but it would probaly need to pretty much be a load cell and flex in just one direction methinks. i have a couple of weeks with just one hand, hopefully I'll have a hemera, and one of those generic SammyC21 boards to play with when the other hand is back in business, maybe I can sketch out something in the meanwhile

@nomad said in Higher input voltages for steppers: @dc42 I think the AOD4184A mosfet and the Schottky CDBA540-HF would not be able to work above 40 volts, so the solution of removing the D3 diode and externally powering the regulators can be dangerous. It is right? Correct, you would need to not use the AOD4184A outputs at all, or use a different supply to power the heaters.

Lowracer. I'm interested in converting my um2+ extended to DUET Wifi as well. Did you follow a tutorial or just figure it out yourself? I'm scared to mess things up. Thanks!

if you're in a hurry and wanna do a little DIY ref https://forum.duet3d.com/post/155634

To make it work I think you'd need a few things... Because there are so many combinations of I/O what you could do to minimize the number of SKUs would be to create maybe a 1, 2, 4, 6 position carrier board, then single function daughterboards, one stepper driver, one A/D I/O, one thermistor, one low power PWM, one high power PWM, etc. So for an XY stepper with endstop, you run power and CAN to a 2 position carrier and plop a stepper and A/D I/O daughterboard on. For a Z motor, you use a single position carrier. A hotend might use a 4 position carrier, etc. The other issue is software related... Need to make sure that throughput on the bus is fast enough that a device like an endstop can on one carrier can trigger a motor stop on another in a reasonable amount of time.

It seems to me like this is a lot of technology for something that only requires a simple current limiting circuit. I do not however have a better solution to offer.

The only times I have seen the mosfet driver chip fail, they failed short circuit. I have never seen a mosfet driver chip fail with an open circuit output.

@vfjr said in PWM to DC for fan control for cheap - How to do it.: @dc42 That has indeed fixed the simulation errors for the LC filter. However the voltage across the resistor (fan) is still less than about 1V, no matter the PWM ratio. In that case there is something wrong with your simulation. Maybe the mark/space ratio isn't what you think. Where are you measuring the output? What does "PULSE(24 0 0 0 0 0.00001 0.00001)" signify? And ".tran(0.05)"? Did you have to specify a value for the series resistance of the inductor?

Actually 6 conductors go to the head: 2 power wires and 2 twisted pairs for CAN. But I'm hoping we will be able to eliminate the second twisted pair in most situations.

@dc42 said in Have some pity.: e than one fan output isn't working, either the fuse ble Thanks man.

@T3P3Tony said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion: @gtj0 the 5V disable on expansion was to allow for turning elements of for EMI testing on the prototypes. don't feed 5V into that. Nah, I wasn't planning to feed 5v there. I don't see the wiring diagram for the expansion board so I was really wondering if that disabled the 5v regulator and might allow us to feed 5v via another pin. Its a good point about not having an external 5V supply. for low current only applications it might be possible to do as you suggest and send power down the 1&6 connectors on the RJ11 but we don't plan to currently. Just a thought for the future. @dc42 said in Main/Expansion board 5v power suggestion: What would be the purpose of keeping the expansion boards powered with 5V? And what is the purpose of turning off VIN power but keeping 5V? Same as for the mainboard. Keep the electronics hot but save power by turning off Vin. Also for letting the kinematics "freewheel" it's easier to do a M81/M80 or click a button on the DWC than issue an M18, then a zero move to start them again. And for keeping the sensors active of course. Without Vin on the expansion board, you'd lose its temps, endstops, etc.but you'd still have them on the mainboard. Oh yeah, you can't update firmware without Vin on the expansion board but you can on the mainboard.

One final comment on faster heatup - go 120V AC. I did and I love it! Of course you need to replace the heating pad and you need a relay (SSR recommendedl) and an over temp fuse is recommended. With a Creality CR10 the warm up time was excessive and maximum temp was limited to about 60C if I recall correctly. It took something like 30 minutes to get there ! I now enjoy heatup to 60C in maybe 2 minutes. Waiting drove me insane before the upgrade. You can run an SSR directly from the old heater output that used to power the 12V bed. Good luck!

This is very much on our radar, and is one of the reasons why we don't have an external stepper expansion board for Duet 3 yet. It's not as easy as it sounds, because at 3D printer speeds and resolutions the quadrature signals arrive at quite high frequencies, so it's not practical to use the main microcontroller to capture them using ordinary pin inputs.

@JoergS5 Yes but that does not need to happen in real time, just around about the same time.

@T3P3Tony said in Duet2 SPI and DSF: @gtj0 might work - would be cool to try but would need RRF hacking and we probably wont do anything about it internally anytime soon due to other firmware priorities. I may give it a shot over the next week or so.

@Kulitorum will be emailing those who expressed an interest in the prototype boards after TCT show next week (you are on the list!)

@evan38109 said in Duet 3 expansion board stepper driver thermal tests: I admit that the Duet3 is getting pretty exciting to me. I've been modding my Prusa MK3s and starting to hit the limits of what I can do with the EINSY. This guy, though... Do you have any particular reason to put Duet 3 on that though? I feel like Duet Maestro is a better fit for the most part. The regular Duet2 is more capable than most desktop users need. The biggest thing I want is direct support for 4 wire fans. Even though my bigger machine can use a little more motor current, it works pretty well at 2.4A.

Best IMO is to remove the pins from the connector shell at one end (easy with the Molex KK connectors); then hand-twist the 4 wires around each other without imparting a twist to the individual wires; then re-insert them in the shell. If you twist the cable with the shells in place, then the individual wires have to twist, and then they will tend to un-twist the cable. For stepper motor cables, I prefer to twist the two wire in each phase around each other; then loosely twist the two pairs around each other. This minimises magnetically induced EMI.

@zapta Yeah. The cost of a panel due was hard to justify. However, as an industrial maintenance technician, I can whip up a control panel out of recycled parts in no time.

jrdm@, this may interest you, 1200x1200mm printer. Description has a link to thingiverse. He uses 4 silicon pads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qjv9yPHOv8