Topics created by strips

Just wanted to mentin after I got a replacements for the heater core it prints as expected again. Now I measure within 5C at 100C.

Do you have a direct drive setup? If so, you should look at very low PA settings, we're talking between 0.015 and up, up to like 0.3 at most.

I'm running 0.03 for example for a 0.4mm nozzle

@strips Looks much better. Glad I could help.

Thanks for the answers,

i did use way too fast extrusion speed and too high temp.

Printing in 30m/s at 220C works alot better! Doing a new PA-tuning run as I got some things happening in the corners.

@bearer said in Many disconnects - Duet Ethernet:

if you present a worse alternative

Better still, don't present it, when she says no cable simply start to carry the printer upstairs. When she SEES the alternative she'll insist you run the cable.

@Phaedrux, thanks for your input. I'll do some testing later today 🙂

@PaulHew said in Help tuning my Ender 5 Plus with Titan:

@strips They do look good. What did you need to change?

What filament is it?

I do not use Creality's build platforms. I have instead 2 Borosilicate glass beds and 3D Lac as I had problems getting first layers to stick properly.

Well done otherwise.

P.

In cura I went with pretty much the default that came with the ender3 profile. But for the fun of it I made a Benchy with Simplify3D but trying to duplicate the settings in the Ender 3 profile for Cura. It came out a bit better than the Cura version. I think maybe the printer is lacking on print cooling and that might be why the temp-tower looks so bad.

I did a comparison on the temp tower gcode and the benchy sliced on S3D. There are some changes here but nothing that stands out.
00966812-93dc-4c56-9ffe-7ddfdfc155bd-image.png

I have printed the Ender 3 Tusk Part Fan Nozzle on Thingiverse and it came out pretty ok. I do have some 4 mm alu tubing to test. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3055926

Here I have the Benchies for comparison. The print settings are as similar as I could make them. I think S3D came out on top but Cura has much better finish on the boat deck. They both are printed with 100% extrusion so there is about 8% over extrusion here. Some of the door/window overhangs look bad but thats the worst.
Cura on the left and S3D on the right on all the pics.
ada3e02f-3545-4aaf-ae1a-9dc05425a31d-image.png
f18512df-d66e-4650-8b44-2fa129b491ae-image.png
66072ab6-63b6-4642-97fa-b5818dd421eb-image.png
7507a8fe-2974-4244-a64b-801fe9880b83-image.png
17620d04-f800-4090-a84f-e262c6c3074c-image.png

The best way to maximize the mesh grid is to take your M208 as the bed surface, then add/subtract your probe offsets. That will give you the area for M577 that the probe can reach. Adjust it slightly so that you can get a whole number of points within it. Tip, if you send an M577 with a unreasonably high number of probing points it will suggest the actual maximum to you.

Hi,
Thanks lot of the photo. I’m doing the same project, and your post helps a lot.
Why do you choose not to connect the dual z stepper driver in serial configuration as suggested by the wiki?
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Wiring_and_hardware_differences_from_RAMPS_etc#Section_Stepper_motors

Hi,

Just made a quick test.
There is a difference visible, but i expected more. Few circles. the outer with baby stepping at 0, towards the middle, i increased per DWC in 0.1mm steps

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