Topics created by Tryptamine

@Tryptamine thanks for sharing!

@Tryptamine in that case I suspect the SD card is faulty and is pulling the 3.3V rail down. Once you have used the Erase jumper, the presence of the SD card should not affect the availability of the Bossa port.

@Tryptamine said in Common lines for compact wiring - PCB design:

Things I am still unsure about:

the BLT has GND twice. Is it sufficient to wire only one ground to some ground of the Duet, or does the ground have to be connected twice?

One ground wire should suffice.

How to dimension the smoothing capacitor between 5v and GND?

I suggest 100uF.

Is the 50 mils connection for the heater PWM large enough?

Use e.g. https://www.4pcb.com/trace-width-calculator.html to check.

Should I fuse the 24V on the board?

Not necessary if the VIN fuse on the Duet provides sufficient protection and you take the 24V wire from the fused supply on the Duet, e.g. from the heater output connector (assuming that connector has a high enough rating for the total 24V current). If you take it directly from the 24V PSU then you should fuse it.

@droftarts I have the 24V heater since a long time already 🙂 The problem back then was i had all my wires through a cold water connection hose and could not change single parts.

And also, even though I planned to change the heater block anyway, I can not accept a problem to be just "unsolvable", especially with software. I thought there must be a way, just for my ego so to say.

Indeed it was your approach M307 H1 ... after the M950 H1 ... that solved the issue!
Big times thank you for this again. Made the printer last for some important prints before the heater core swap.

I understand the safety concerns, but for me, it makes no sense to destroy someone's reputation because he asked for advice.

Thanks for helping out on this one and for the upvotes!

I will update you when my new carriage and daughterboard are finished.

It is not opened to the internet, but it is in a network with internet access. I think having a password is better than having none, so how to save it in my browser?

@Tryptamine
I also had this problem with my Hypercube at the initial stage.
Try printing smaller circles. The effect should be more noticeable. The shift was diagonal in my case. Based on this, I have concluded that one axis runs with more friction. I then installed higher quality bearings and the problem was solved.

Please keep it to a single topic

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/30594/significant-z-offset-of-bed-mesh?_=1670008389610

@Tryptamine said in Significant z Offset of bed mesh:

I measure it by homing (G28) which probes the middle of the bed once, then I drive the z axis u til the nozzle almost touches the bed.

You should be using this procedure to set your G31 Z value.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Z_probe_testing

@tryptamine If you retract too fast, instead of pulling the molten filament back, it tends to stretch it and it might even break the bead. Every hot end / filament combination is different so the only way to find out is to print a retraction test part. Start slow(ish) until you find the right amount (distance), then increase the retraction speed and if necessary revise the distance. G10 firmware retraction is a good way to vary the parameters as the print progresses. You'll find there is an optimum and it won't be the fastest speed.

@tryptamine yes you will need to invert the X and Y motor directions, which you can do with the M569 commands - change S1 to S0 for those two motors.

@tryptamine said in Tuning a hugely overpowered heater:

I am trying to get to work a 12V heating cartridge on a 24V system.

With 24V do get x4 the power so may need some creating solution. Since splicing the wires for a 24V heater or having a small 12VDC power supply are out of question, have you considered using water cooling to take away x3 of the power?

@droftarts you are a hero.

Mesh compensation will allow going below the z0 point based on the heightmap, that's not a problem.

You should home Z with the probe at the center of the bed. It looks like you're currently homing at a corner?

Post your full config.g and the results of M122 please.

@tryptamine, as @Phaedrux says running a 12V heater from 24V is very dangerous. RRF has estimated that the hot end would reach a temperature of over 1550C if the heater was run at full power. You should replace the hot end heater by a 24V one if possible; otherwise, use a 12V PSU and connect the heater between +12V and the negative output of the heater port you are using.

You could probably fool RRF into accepting parameters close to those, although I don't recommend it. You would need to reduce the R value to about 10 to bring the predicted temperature increase below 1500, and temporarily use M143 to make 1500C an acceptable temperature before the M307 command.

@Peletor That's a possibility. Basically any stepper movement that doesn't directly translate into vertical movement. Mechanical mushiness.

@dc42 well try to move stuff without looking at the screen but looking at what you are doing ... imho check this circle divided in 4 parts, put the finger in the middle and move your head to the printer, move your finger around and you are moving head .. more finger is from the center, you move it more... works without looking .. the layout as is now on the panel I have to use the stylus just to not move wrong axis by looking at the screen, without looking at the screen I can't do anything...

imho for paneldue it would be better to have a separate "how much" slider to decide by how much you are moving and then something like this circle and stripe for where (so no matter where in the quarter of the screen you touch you move by same set value)

anyhow, those are my preferences, but I'm using attm only one paneldue and mostly only for monitoring and don't remember last time I "touched" it and I don't think I'll be getting more of them so I'm ok with whatever you guy's make... I'm thinking about using old phones as interface, they can all run both web and some special app ..