@airflair said in Connection interrupted, HTTP request timed out:

Is there a way to connect Ethernet cable to Duet2 Wi-fi board

No.

@airflair said in Connection interrupted, HTTP request timed out:

Can I use laptop and USB cable to update firmware?

Yes, there are a few ways.

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_firmware

First, though, can you connect to the wifi after a power cycle now?

If not, can you connect via USB and use YAT to send some commands to get the status of the board? Send M122 and copy and paste the results here. That will let us know if the firmware installed or not.

The next thing to try would be to test the wifi module in access point mode where it creates a network and you connect your computer to that network, bypassing your own wifi router. It the connection works well that way we know the issue is with the wifi router or the module itself.

https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m589-configure-access-point-parameters

@o_lampe said in 4 months in 6 minutes:

@deckingman The whole project went way to fast. 😉

That's one benefit of being retired and not having to find time for a day job. ☺

What do you print with this machine now?

Currently I'm mostly printing Hydroponics/Aeroponics towers (another hobby I've recently picked up). This sort of thing

034small.jpg

Obviously not the black tank and not all in one print. The parts are modular, about 230mm tall and slot together.

I'm also playing around with flexible filaments and making bracelets for my grand daughter. The LGX Ace should be good for flexibles because it has a very short filament path from the extruder outlet to the (Mosquito) hot end inlet. But I'm still dialling that in.

Often, a new printer is used to print parts for it's clones if there is enough interest from others. But the all_metall approach makes it difficult to reprap your machine.

Yes, it most definitely isn't a Reprap. I'm still debating whether to sell my lathe and milling machine. Now that the printer is finished, I have no use for them and the money and space would come in handy. But who knows what the future holds so it might be a decision that I come to regret.

Thank you o_lampe. I will give that a whirl and report back!

Do you happen to have the code for the v4 180x as well?

@e4d Sorry, It's been a while and I don't have that on my latest laptop. I'll give a search on my home server when I get a chance to see if I may have backed it up.
But, give a look at the caribou github - variants from duet 2 and 3mini exist.
https://github.com/Caribou3d/CaribouCartesian/tree/master/STL/01_full-kits/Frame/Duet

Hope that helps!

@JuKu A kitchen stove sounds like a good idea, too. But I can't sit there and I need a relaxed position for this job.

@o_lampe Thank you for your email.
To the consideration of the z axis,
the trident has very sturdy xycore mechanisms and whole hotend with extruder and z axis weight about 611g.
Also with 5 axis movement there will be no need for rapid movement of X and y axis.
When I tested printing with normal 3 axis slicer it may look wobbly but the prints came out nice.
I am using in this way the 6hc board with a full potential with stepper motors.
When I have been designing the hotend from mainly used parts what I had lying around so that is the result of it.
But in the future if the problem become with the stability, is already on my mind to design a new version of the z axis mechanism with two linear rails and lead screw for the z axis stepper motor and maybe liquid cooling for the hotend.
The main goal is to make the hotend available for maximum movement and reach around the rotary bed.

@alankilian Problem solved.
I had indeed calibrated the printer with factor 6. But I hadn't passed the values of M665 and M666 into config.g

Thanks for the tip.

@michaelr123 in my opinion you're simply using too long arms. Long arms multiply the errors. If you're using 10 cm arms, you'll get much better solution. You can use cantileved mode to place the hotend a bit away from the last hinge. Placing the XY actuator with bigger distance will also help (but this conflicts with the short arms). I have/had similar problems with 6 axis robot, so this is from my experience (better would be parallel arms vertically or parallelogram structure. Stability could be gained by overconstraining with tensegrity methods also).

But if your project requirement is a big print area and you have time pressure, using CoreXY (or Cartesian in Gantry style) will probably be a better option.

@T3P3Tony

Thank you for doing that. Not sure why my links were jenky...

Cheers,
Gumby

@DrDFlo Hey, could you possibly also share your config file and the speeds at which you print? It would help a ton
I'm having trouble with the extruder since the motor is heating up a lot even while extruding PLA at relatively low speeds so a reference config would help a lot.
Thanks

@CNCModeller Looks much better then mine, but my frame is RepRap'd from plywood 😜
I've also added magnets in each corner to make it removable.
The servo is modified with an external potmeter to make it run eternally.

2022-03-14 17.05.48.jpg
2022-04-08 16.34.26.jpg
2022-04-08 16.34.52.jpg

@UserXY great

@Blacksheep99 Thanks very much for you help, I will let you know how I get on.

@Generic-Default do you have a link to your fork of the duet firmware?

@lexia said in Duet 2 purchase:

DWC reported no signal on A circuit on drives 0,1,2.

If you'd like to troubleshoot further, provide the exact error message you're getting and what you have to do to provoke the error.

Sharing your config files, homing files, bed., etc would also help, as well as the results of sending M122 and M98 P"config.g"

@CNCModeller In my case it's definitely the housing. The bottom which holds the whole mechanic has a huge bulge which can jump inwards or outwards.
Some people use extrusion profiles to fix it but thick plywood would also work I guess. Don't close all the vent holes.

A few changes from the previous status

April 2022 - reworked the X-U axis motor mount / bearing block mounts, as well as tool plates using cut and bent parts from SendCutSend April 2022 - swapped out X / Y / U bearing blocks from no preload to preload October 2022 - Present - experimenting with alternative extruder designs (small Nema8 motors, DC motors) March 2023 - swapped out the Duet 2 + Duex5 with a Duet 3 6HC

Had been wanting to try out the SendCutSend service, and stiffening up my X-U rail assembly was a good excuse to try it out. The vertical members (total quantity 4) are actually the all same plate - installed mirrored depeind on if they are on the high side or low side of the shared axis. Flat plates are aluminum, bent were in stainless. Total order price was a touch under $100 (~$10 a part). Idler pulleys are now fixed properly (using shoulder bolts that actual bear onto the surface). Tapped all the holes once I received the parts.
b27506f5-86ff-40c2-8f7a-198cd2d46aae-image.png

Previously the X, Y, and U bearing blocks were all clearance blocks (no preload). Was able to change all four out for IKO blocks with preload - this stiffened up the system by a surprising margin, increasing my input shaping target by ~20Hz! (Measurements taken after installing the SendCutSend parts)

I picked up a really neat Nema8 with an attached 16:1 gearbox off eBay. While researching the motor, all of the extruder requirements seemed to check out - motor and output shaft could rotate at an appropriate speed with sufficient torque - all with a steps/mm value of 2292 (16x microstepping, typicality a standard value). The first crack at installing it into the printer (below left) worked pretty well - had the motor offset from the drive gear (experimentation has been with a single drive extruder, rather than dual extruder gears) using 2x printed spur gears, with the drive gear being a Bondtech BMG gear. Had some print artifacts resulting from surface seams on the printed gears, and eventually one of the printed gears slipped loose (didn't want to overtighten the set screw).
f0739d01-169a-4cb2-af97-ccc47decc185-image.png

For further testing, I put the motor inline with the drive gear (above right) using a shaft coupler I had on hand. A bit long in this setup, but has been working quite well! Verdict is out on if my hackish extruder designs are any better than a 'commercial' product, but I've been comparing to a BMG setup that doesn't seem to exhibit the extreme VFAs that others have experienced.

The Nema8 experimentation led me to try out the geared DC motor from a Stratasys Dimension machine, which I detailed here some:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/31642/duet-2-wifi-and-geckodrive-g320x-on-stepper-channels-10-and-11/11?_=1680448852416

While I was able to get it working, and print quality seemed solid, I think the Stratasys machine does some additional tricks to manage the load on the DC motor. I was finding with the Geckodrive (0-20A output) there was a fine line between the motor stalling/faulting on moderate extruder accelerations, and overheating the motor. I would typically see a 35°C thermal rise using the Geckodrive directly with the Duet 2, whereas in the Stratasys machine (all original controller boards) I would only see a 18°C thermal rise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvajxcZIf6M

Finally, this past week I upgraded to a 1.02 rev of the Duet 3 6HC. Currently still running with 24V. Overall the swap went over smoothly.

I like how simple the pin names are in comparison to the Duet 2. Not that it was confusing, but something like io0.in is easy to understand and type. Motors and motion sound a touch different - almost like they resonate at a slightly higher frequency, with a little more consistency, but not really any louder? Only hiccup I had was wiring and sending signal to my heat bed SSR. I am using Out 0 to drive the SSR, but did not provide an input to Out 0 power in. VH contacts crimp fairly easily.

@motomo I've been thinking over the 6HC vs the Duet 2, and I think it would be possible - although I have not checked all of the input and output requirements. Some things to think about

To control the extruder DC motor, you'll likely need to add a Duet 1XD board to control the Geckodrive G320x (or some other equivalent device of your choosing). The 1XD will send the Step and Direction outputs to the Geckodrive, which in turn will pass information off to the Stratasys PDB (and then in turn, based on the wiring, I believe to the PDB's STMicroelectronics L298 Full Bridge, maybe @AJ-Quick can correct me on that). You may want to investigate power supply requirements, the Duet 6HC can take 12-48v input (depending on the hardware revision), whereas the uPrint has 5v, 12v and 24v power supplies.