Nice! how does it fly?

I've been toying around with the idea of a CF/PETG hybrid drone frame.

I hate lead screws, if it was possible for my machine I would use belts.

I went through 4 lead screws to find two that were -almost- perfect, the instructions tell you that you attach the rods to the top and bottom using the supplied self-aligning bearings (this is an FT5 R-2 with dual lead screws with a single belt synchronized stepper) Having the lead screw attached in this way makes it almost impossible to remove binding, even then because you are restraining the Z screw from moving around to and fro- causes the bed to wobble- removing the top bearings helped with print quality.

lead screws are fine to be constrained in X-Y axis on say a CNC, this is because the axis only needs to be moderately accurate, but on 3D prints, especially decorative items, even the smallest amount of wobble is noticeable. Increasing the diameter of the lead is a double edged sword, on one hand, it will flex less under the weight of the bed, but on the other any variation of runout and out-of-round would force it's way onto the bed, rather than flex a little and allow the linear guides to resist the force from the leads.

I have almost no Z-wobble, but I have even considered going from dainty 8mm linear rods to 12mm rods to help mitigate this, in fact, I've toyed around with the idea to use 4 linear rails on 2020 extrusions as bed platform guides.

Ball screws are a possibility, but in order to get a quality part, you are paying an ungodly amount of money.

If I was to design a system it would have inverted lead screws, this way gravity pulls down on the bed instead of the lead screws fighting to keep the bed up, this would remove most all flex and would then only have to worry about the quality of the leads themselves.

@shadowphile said in question about steppers and power supply current rating:

Since I don't want to change everything over to 24V, I plan to wire 24 into the Duet but wire my old 12 into the middle pin of the V_fan select header. Both supplies would merge their negative terminals. Sound ok?

Yes that's OK.

@richardmckenna yeah there good guys once you order they send you a link to both there own closed Forum and to there Discord Chatroom they usually hang out around there and also the 3Dprinting Discord which can be found at

3Dprinting Discord Chat room

@agniusm said in Modded Ender 3 Conveyor concept:

is there a temperature tied to that drive? Like the extruder would not move until temp is high enough to extrude and if so could that be altered?

To drive an extruder:

You must select a tool that uses that extruder; If that tool has any associated heaters, you must heat them up to at least the minimum extrusion temperature OR enable cold extrusion.

We hope to release Duet 3 in Q2 2019.

@dc42 Thanks for confirmation that current thing on z axis.

Just totally missed that "speed factor" setting both web control and duetpanel. Very nice that be there 🙂

@Phaedrux There is about 10mm space between under pcs --> printed mount. I know this kind of IC:s (stepper ic:s) cooled otherside to board, but do this solution because i have very low currents (900mA~ per driver) and i have quite powerfull active cooling with fan, what is always full power when my atx power is on. Of course if want update something can printed that mount again with 20-30mm supports to give little more airspace under to pcb, but not know is that necessery.

Yeah that wifi placement is other thing what i thinked before, but wire management is so good with this solution i think to try how Wifi works. Now seems that gives me about 60db values when i couple times checked that on console command. Maybe some day i move my printer different room what is little bit longer distance my wifi point. Read somewhere @dc42 text where he talked something to external antenna on Duet2, but is that possible add diy, or is that different wifi module totally? Now printer works very good and no disconnects, but when but that longer distance that wifi point maybe some problems then.

Little bit more updates to machine and new X garriage almost ready, (looks quite heavy, but not be). Induction sensor place is now intecrated that near hotend than possible, "wind tunnel" is bigger to cool hotend cool sink, same time fan updated 40mm version Noctua, part cooling fan updated Sanyo Denki good quality radial fan and new better nozzle is designed too.
0_1544893834282_x_garriage.jpg

Have some problems to get macros show on Paneldue when started printer. Check forum and finded that is allready fixed bug and first time update firmware to panel. Thinked panel can be updates same way like Duet firmware, but need that extra software (Bossa) and usb cabel. Still no problem quite easy update and now have newest software inside Paneldue.

Printer mount paneldue to printer and design fast remove/attach system to get panel easily remove to printer and get more space if need update printer or service that. Same time i added hardwired Button to E0 endstop and configured that Emernency stop for now. Think to change that maybe "Pause" button or something, but now that is attached and wired to printer and easy to do what ever command to that button. I try one time that "pause" button on webcontrol. Works otherwise ok but when but resume and z axle drive 10mm down and continue printing. Extruder extrude filament that time when z axle going that 10mm down. But i think i find answer that inside resume.g or pause.g files.
0_1544894093959_display_button.jpg

@3d_druck said in 25v output from any pin ? Other GPIO pins on the board.:

Thank you for the reply.

Is the Fan pin capable of supplying 25v output ?
I tried to search in documentation but could not find any point regarding this.

Yes, when VIN is 25V.

Keep up the great work. I have so far switched my hypercube over to your idlers and motor mounts. It has been printing without a break for a little over a week now!

I tried and it did not work.

I got a new TFT panel display same one and the sd card works fine. So i think its the problem with sd card port in the previous panel.

Thanks for the swift response and support!

As I mentioned, the originl 4x joiner part had some trouble with some filaments, probably due to having too tight bends inside the part. To fix that, I desgined my own part, trying to have the paths bend as little as possible, while keeping the part relatively small. After few iterations I got a part that has been working without problems for few months now. I printed it with PETG, but ABS might be better as it has higher heat tolerances. Still, PETG seems to be holding up quite well.

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@dc42 Thanks for looking into it! I'm happy to help test.

Unplugging wires and reseating them seems to have fixed it. Thanks!

Yes the trigger height for the IR sensor against transparent PrintBite can be rather variable, probably because of the texture inside it. The new black PrintBite is better. However, on a delta printer it's better to use a nozzle contact probe if you can, because any sensor that is offset from the nozzle will be affected by effector tilt.

@kakadu31 have a look at the M106 documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M106_Fan_On
It shows how to set the frequency etc.

That said you should expect the defaults to work properly in most normal situations.

Hi @wesc

Thanks for your comments.

Mine is only constrained at the top. I have Puck Style couplers at the bottom. I have had to do that because I am using the z screws to remove any twist in the bed. As I could not be bothered dealing with adjustment screws, and the fact that the duet does it so well, if you have any deviation (mine is about 0.15mm from power up of the stepper motors), you will find that using a puck style coupler, the screws will pull the couplers apart instead of actually fixing the twist. I do not have any wobble in mine. I find if you actually make sure that there is no loading on the coupler other than the weight of the bed, and you tighten the grub screws in the bearings, they seem to run true.

Trying to find 550mm long integrated lead screws is near on impossible, and if you do, it is a massive risk (getting bent) and expense to get them to New Zealand.

I will have a look at his page. I have mesh compensation running with the mapping having had been done while it is warm and have a total deviation on a 400x400 bed of 0.11mm. I am using exhaust wrapping between the angles and the plate which should help with some expansion as well.

Kind Regards,
Sam

Came here to suggest d300vs.

Since you already have one (I do too and love it) How about a DICE printer? It’s bowden but it’s so tiny the bowden penalty is small.

Hope the Titan aero is working for you. I binned mine and went BMG due to endless problems.

@dc42 I will re-test, but I did reboot after changing the parameter each time. I also increased T, which did make a difference (max speed was even lower).

I reduced the parameter for X and Y only, since the Z-Axis seemed to be ok.

Update: With both axes set to T1, the the max speed was still limited. Compared to previous tests using just a square with only x or y movement at any given time, this was a figure 8. M122 now appears to show incomplete moves:

=== Platform ===
Last reset 00:03:56 ago, cause: software
Last software reset at 2018-10-19 14:48, reason: User, spinning module GCodes, available RAM 6816 bytes (slot 1)
Software reset code 0x0003 HFSR 0x00000000, CFSR 0x00000000, ICSR 0x0441f000, BFAR 0xe000ed38, SP 0xffffffff
Error status: 0
Free file entries: 9
SD card 0 detected, interface speed: 20.0MBytes/sec
SD card longest block write time: 0.0ms
MCU temperature: min 37.9, current 38.2, max 38.7
Supply voltage: min 11.8, current 11.9, max 12.1, under voltage events: 0, over voltage events: 0
Driver 0: open-load-A open-load-B, SG min/max 0/14
Driver 1: open-load-A open-load-B, SG min/max 0/12
Driver 2: standstill, SG min/max not available
Driver 3: ok, SG min/max 0/395
Driver 4: standstill, SG min/max not available
Date/time: 1970-01-01 00:00:00
Slowest loop: 646.41ms; fastest: 0.08ms
=== Move ===
Hiccups: 1243034, StepErrors: 0, LaErrors: 0, FreeDm: 174, MinFreeDm 150, MaxWait: 0ms, Underruns: 0, 0
Scheduled moves: 1237, completed moves: 1215
Bed compensation in use: none
Bed probe heights: 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000

Not sure where to go from here. Our servo drive manual states that the drives are updated at a rate of 1kHz, but there is no mention of a microsteps/sec limit . The Rep-Rap wiki shows an "extended" configuration for the parameter T, like: Taa:bb:cc:dd in which 'minimum step pulse' and 'minimum step interval' can be configured. Is this a way forward?

Thanks!

That looks like a solid machine. Nice work.