@jay_s_uk I suppose they may be sending M552 s0 or M552 s-1 and causing the WiFi to disconnect?

@thetazzbot I'd try connecting to the Duet via USB and running M122 and M552 to see what is happening with the WiFi. I suppose another possibility is that the BTT display is generating interference that is causing the WiFi to disconnect, but who knows. The USB connection should give you a better idea of what is going on.

@Karim post you config and homing files

Ok
Thanks . I'll fight with these "Chinese" I don't need such an extended expansion board and the more so at my place you can't get Duex2 anymore.
Greetings.

@Lexan said in Replace HS557 with 1HCL:

Is it possible to replace the closed loop HS557 driver with the 1HCL extension board?

Yes, if the main board is a Duet 3 series board (including Duet 3 Mini) and the motor is a 1.8deg (or higher) motor with an encoder pulses per revolution of at least 1000 (transitions per revolution at least 4000).

Which axis or extruder does the driver control?

Does the HS557 driver provide an error output that the Duet could monitor?

Hey there! I'm not sure about Duet being used specifically as a 3D scanner, but have you considered using photogrammetry software?

@moth4017 The 0 is implied if it's left off, so 0.out8 would be correct, but optional.

@alexanderhendrickson Can you please send M122 and M98 P"config.g" in the gcode console and copy paste the results here?

1463dd9d-93b0-4efd-bebd-2cb67d8f3c5b-image.png

How do you have the Low Current Output Voltage selection jumper set for Out7-9?

Are you able to control the fan if you send M106 P1 H-1 S1? That should make it turn on at 100%.

So far not been able to test the last suggested change, found that the black 6 wire connector on the smart effector has a lose connection and it broke off, so i have ordered replacment ones and have to wait to put new one on as it seems like one or two others are just holding on. hope that maybe (dont know how) is part of the problem.

@Ethelred it should be possible to use the E1 heater output to drive a small DC motor, however you will need to connect a flyback diode in parallel with the motor because Duet 2 does not have flyback diodes on the heater outputs. Without the flyback diode, the back emf from the motor will burn the mosfet out. Connecting the flyback diode the wrong way round will also burn the mosfet out.

The heater pins on the expansion header provide 3.3V at low current, so not suitable for driving a motor directly.

@jay_s_uk my bad, I'm lacking knowledge in electronics 😳 The easiest way was just to test with a real fan, which I have done now. Everything works as expected.

@QIDI-Xmax_upgrade just add T0 to the end of your config and you'll be sorted

@Adamfilip When I installed optical X and Y endstops on my printer I ran a test of the precision of those stops. I added some custom gcode to the slicer so that the machine would rehome X and Y at every layer change. This function can be used in some MarkForged printers to detect layer shifting (a lot of their filament is very expensive, so you'd want to stop a shifted print early). In the MarkForged printers, they count steps to the home position and if the number is off, stop the print because it has shifted.

The result of my test was that my optical endstops were very precise, but homing at every layer change adds a lot of extra time to a print- typically 10-20 sec per layer which adds up over hundreds of layers. Homing at every 10th layer would be more practical.

"Autorecovery from step loss" isn't really recovery because it doesn't fix the problem causing the step loss. It just starts the next layer at the proper position, but that layer may also shift.

You've created a heightmap based on the photos, but you don't have it loaded when you've sent M122. It's only loaded after creating a fresh one with G29, or loading a saved one with G29 S1.

Okay, I've got it sorted...

What was confusing me is that I was trying to use it the G30 P0 ... set the exact same way as I do on my printer that has the DC42 IR probe, which doesn't deploy. It does work the way that I was using it, though I can see from the "proper" use of it that I am doing it a bit weird, by manually accounting for the probe offset.

@droftarts said in BLTouch driving me bonkers...:

usually used in a macro to level a bed with multiple independent motors.

Which is exactly what I wanted to use it for, as I have 3 independent Z motors (On drives 2, 3, and 4)

Took me a while to get back to this, but it's all good now.

Well i received the new nema 17 today and installed then , very close of achieving the speed i want , i did double my acceleration from 9-10k to 19k . only things stopping me right now i think is the duet 3 version i have that only support 32V , if i had the newer version that support 48V i would have achieve my goal here . i j ust need to tweak my printer a bit more and this build will be done. than after i guess the next build for high speed lol

Thank you, @T3P3Tony

I was glad to help where I could, after all the help I had had!

What firmware version were you using before updating?

Did you also update your DWC files?

At this point I think you should probably use Bossa to flash the latest firmware directly, and then manually update the DWC files on the SD card.

Use this procedure to flash the firmware: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_firmware#fallback-procedure-2

Use this firmware file: https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.5/Duet2CombinedFirmware.bin

Then update the DWC files by putting the SD card into your PC and extract the contents of this zip file into the WWW folder on the SD card: https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.5/DuetWebControl-SD.zip

When you are all done and connected to DWC, upload this zip file to the system tab in DWC. https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.4.5/Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.5.zip

So suppose I run firmware 3.4.5, I have my heater tuned (several times) and in 90% of cases all is fine. In the last 10% of the cases, the heater faults out during the initial stages of heating from cold to operating temperature (usually closer to the final temperature). The error is always something to the effect of 'the heating rate is lower than what is expected'.
Once operating temperature is achieved, the heater seems totally reliable.
M307 gives me R,D,E and K parameters to play with.
What parameter(s) should I tweak slightly (and in which direction) to signal the firmware that a slightly lower heating rate is ok while at the same time not messing with the perfectly working situation once the heater is at operating temperature?
As it happens, this is for the hotend and not the chamber heater but the question really applies to any heater.
Can I just reduce my R value a bit (which seems to primarily be relevant when the heater is cold but that is not where things fail) or will that screw with things at operating temperature.
My apologies if this post is seen as a thread highjacking - it is not meant to be and I think the question is relevant in the spirit of the original question.

@Ivan-Miranda glad it's sorted!