@phaedrux

i was looking at that too and wonder whats going on as well. it doesnt seem to be related but ill have to look into it. i have physical drive 5 on the duex5 assigned as the extruder for tool 0 right now.

as for the tool change motor direction, it was a bad connection on the DIR wire. i swapped it out for a new one and all is fine.

thank you phaedrux!

See here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_Duet_Num_3

@phaedrux Thank you! (that did not come up when I did a search before posting)

Where are you located? May find a local option here: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13875/community-repairs?_=1622215254328

@o_lampe said in using a Thyristor Module for heatbed?:

Right, I confused that. And I'm almost sure it's a Triac that has 'zero-crossing' detection.

All triacs turn off at zero crossing. Most DC-AC SSRs have additional circuitry so that they only turn on just after the zero crossing too.

@printernoodle said in Startup m291 not displayed:

@fcwilt

Oh sure it's because the gantry de-rack is typically a few mm....but can be as much as 10 or more mm depending on which moron has had their way with the machine....so a special de-rack with a suitably large dive value is called so as to avoid the creaming of the bed. Then every sliced print can call a simple g28 which will home everything much more accurately and quickly without the large dive to correct for error which is no longer there.

Thank you!

Thanks but I have no idea what you are talking about.

@droftarts Here is what each color wire is for:

LED: Green Wire - 2 pin KK connector - PIN 2
HotEnd FAN: Purple Wire - 2 pin KK connector - PIN 2
LAYER FAN: Orange Wire - 2 pin KK connector - PIN 2
The additional black and red pair are for the Duet fan

Here is how the manufacture instructs us to connect the fans. Not being familar with the Duet I would guess that the wires are connected to the negative side of each fan connector.

I will check the fuses when I am off work.

alt text

@ameigh710 If your thermistor is reading 100k ohms at room temperature (about 25C) that's about right. You can't really read it when connected to the Duet, as you'll read the extra circuitry in the Duet, so a different reading is normal. You will get an error if you disconnect the thermistor while the Duet is on. With the thermistor disconnected, you should get a reading of -273C, and with the thermistor pins shorted (use a jumper or attach a wire, rather than poking a screwdriver in there) it will read 2000C.

Do you know what the thermistor make and model actually is? Depending on the thermistor, you may not need a C parameter.

If you're still getting an error, please post your config.g, and response to M115 to show firmware version and Duet hardware. Most likely it's a configuration error.

Ian

@droftarts
Thank you, that was the problem, thank you very much you are amazing 😁

@oleksii_solntsev you will need to calculate the maximum linear carriage speed that you need for your printer to achieve the desired XY speed. Our EMF calculator does that for regular delta printers, but not for your inclined tower kinematics.

One thing that worries me about your kinematics is that the Z resolution will vary with Z height, being (I think) worse at low heights and better higher up. Are you certain that you have sufficient Z resolution? Don't rely on microstepping to increase resolution, because microsteps are not necessarily uniform.

@apak which is why @dc42 is investigating a power issue.

There's a whole section for setting up CoreXY motors

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/ConfiguringRepRapFirmwareCoreXYPrinter

Pop back in if you have any other questions.

@martin7404 this was written for v1.0, so something could have changed, but take a look at this post by @dc42:

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/21315/use-tool-board-lc1-in-a-printer-with-enclosure

Sorry for the delay!
I contacted the manufacturer of my old 3D printer and they told me that the optical end stop switch I have is designed for that purpose only and cannot be used for Duet.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to all of you for your co-operation.
I think I have not enough experience and knowledge to use this optical end stop switch for Duet, so I would like to use a normally open microswitch which I have prepared as a spare.
We'll meet again somewhere else.

@gallaghersart you may find this interesting https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/22385/emc-wiring-for-duet-2-ethernet.

Well assuming the wiring color is correct it looks like you've got it all connected correctly.

Can you provide the results of M122 after it's gone on the fritz?
Are you powered via VIN or USB?
If you disconnect the paneldue does it stay powered up?
Is the PD using 4 wire or ribbon cable?

@dc42 Well, I applied the M21 P1 in config.g, in addition to creating a macro to mount the card, if necessary, if I know anything else that I can solve, I am listening. Otherwise, thank you for the help provided!

Hello Ian,

These work thanks! It's maybe a good idea to update the documentation.

With regard,

Eric

Ok, disconnected cap and now it starts fine. Where should I place it to make everything work as expected? Directly to board power input terminals?