@droftarts
Thanks - reflashing the WiFi firmware fixed the problem.

@jps0284 said in Control the E3D Water Cooling System via a FAN Port:

My previous setup was comparable to what your describing but used a 360 radiator (3x120mm 12v fans) running thermostatically off Tool 0 linked to the PWM 12/24 pins of my duex5. The pump (24v) was also thermostatically controlled running off Fan2 of the duet linked to Tool0. That configuration caused a few issues, one being I kept forgetting to enable part cooling in the slicer settings and the other was with varying the frequency of the pump. Since I'm typically printing high temp filaments (nylon, pc, pei) I ended up just moving the pump to run off Fan0 (continuous 24v). I'd recommend adding a water flow hall sensor off an endstop to trigger a fault halting the printer. If I'm remembering correctly the e3d cooler is a 80mm radiator setup, which isn't bad if your only interested in cooling the hot end but for nearly the same price you can piecemeal a better setup off amazon. I picked up a 360 cooler for >40$, 24v pump 25-ish, 40mm waterblocks 2 for 10 bucks. IMO from experience, your better off sourcing out individual components rather than some integrated system for future expansion possibilities. I've since replaced my 360 cooler with a homemade chiller setup, went from a 90 100F return temp to a consistent 60F. My steppers are much happier now.

Thanks but I've already ordered the E3D kit. Could you please give me an example for the hall sensor you mentioned? I'm not an expert so I don't know those devices...I've searched in Google and I found plenty models but I don't know what are best to use for this purpose and that can be coupled with the Duet....thanks

65426137-fb23-4b48-94ea-1281c405b364-image.png

You can double up the ground wires, or some people connect them closer to the BLtouch and just run the one wire, or some people only use a single ground wire.

@siam Thanks, thought I had to reference the extruder/tool it accompanied in that line. The problem is gone, thanks a lot.

My motors are still whatever came on my wanhao duplicator i3+. Probably should have got new ones.

It sounds like my best bet is just to try it and see how it goes. Thanks folks!

@npm1, you already know it's overkill. I would try to go to at least 20 ga .
18 ga with 8 cores is FAT and it will reflect on the movements of the head, Looks like very nice cable though with very fine strands and good flexibility

Never mind I see it:
M141 P2 H2 should be M141 P0 H2

@droftarts thanks for your answear.
I happen to know that it also works without the motor splitting... the homing routine also works with the separate axes but the motors rotate at different speeds. P3 and P4 you need only for the U-axis in the interface is displayed or hidden

@dc42
It‘s a Fysetc clone from Ali, 5 month in use.
I will throw that crap away and get a real one.

Thanks a lot for your help.

@phaedrux, conductor count is actually quite common and the same for the vast majority of wires. When you get into a larger qty of individual strands you are getting into specialty wire such as silicone insulated or test leads or some such. Marine wire has a common higher strand count to make it more flexible. The 'standard' is 7 conductors and the gauge of those conductors changes to achieve the overall wire gauge.
The other thing that plays a roll in the over heating is the contact resistance between the two connectors. Since these connectors are not spec'd to fit together, there is a good chance that you have only a tiny contact surface which then generates heat. Add to that the use of chinesium and you never know what you got 🙂

@dc42 Hi,

Ok, I followed all the instruction until it suggest to update the firmware. The FW version I have is 3.1.1.

At STEP 7: To update it I have to connect to the DWC, right ?

In the Installing & updating procedure:

--"Usual procedure
Download firmware zip bundle (named Duet2and3Firmware-3.xxx.zip) , or individual binary files, from https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware...
Connect to DuetWebControl.
In DWC, go to the System page and click the "Upload System Files" button."--

So I have to go back and set the connection, which I did, I guess... I followed step 8, 10, and step 11, does not work for me.

I set a permanent IP address, then connected my board into my switch (not a rooter). I tried to connect via the IP address in a browser, as well as the http://duettest.local/ and... nothing !

Is there a special procedure to connect through a switch instead of directly on the rooter ? I have to find a way because the rooter is very, very far and I had to pass a cable through the entire house and connect all my PC on a switch(as well as the printer).

@typqxq said in Unhandled heater runaway due to a faulty heatblock:

and the heater cartridge is electrically connected to the heatsink.

What's the point in that? Better thermal conductivity? Seems to me, the new hotend isn't compatible with the major market...

If the top of that model is a small area tower then yes overheating is likely. Your slicer will have some sort of minimum layer time and fan speed settings so that on small areas like that it will slow down and increase the fan speed to try and keep the previous layer cool. It can also help to print a separate tower object the same height a little ways away from the main model. It will use more plastic on a useless tower but it will give the layers more time to cool. You could also print two of the main object.

@dc42 said in Duet3mini5+ problem with sd card:

@maciek I am sorry your Duet has developed a fault. We will replace it. Please email warranty@duet3d.com and cc Filafarm. You will receive a reply with a link to a form to fill in.

Its no problem. I like duet because of your support.

Im just worried that if I will have replacement from vendor, from the same batch, I will have same issue.

@th3dtim This is a great Wiki, thank you!

I found a typo though... On your Motion Settings section, you have a header for M556 Command, but that code should be M566, as it also says in the description below it.

@droftarts My hotend is 12V 70W, which is 5.833 amp. It's way too close to the max 6 amp for my taste. Is a SSR on the hotend could be necessary ?

@droftarts Great advice, thanks!

@jltx Glad you got it sorted. Electronics often behave when I start looking at them! They respect my authority...

Ian

@droftarts
Ahh, I see you wired up directly to the switch.
I was probing through the 3-wire jack. I guess they didn't even run traces for NC.
Will check on that.TronXY_X5SA_X_endstop.jpg