@JRCL @droftarts Other thermistors had no problems with the correct Y variable, so I likely have a broken or spliced thermistor. Time for a little tear-up!

@Johnnie_W said in Duet 3 6HC - using temp sensor without mapping to a heater:

Is it possible to use a temp sensor without having to map it to a heater?

Yes. In RRF3 sensors are defined independently of heaters. You can display them in DWC if you click on Extras.

Our take, after finally receiving a few to test, is there is a lot of life left in the RPi4. Plus they are now readily available. I do like the potential of using a cheap M.2 SSD for storage over an SD Card, but we’ve never had a good quality SD card go bad on us, so even that is overkill.

@leeviet I don't know exactly why both headers are used for the extension board. All the required pins are on the CONN_LCD header.
I can only think of 5V which is only on the Panel_Due header.
I guess, you can route 5V from elsewhere and use both: screen and extension.
Alternatively you can connect the extension board to the 40-pin expansion port with jumper wires. Just like I did with the BTT M5 board...

@leeviet The BTT expansion will work on a Duet2 if you don't want to use a PanelDue.
But unfortunately it isn't sure if a 5-axis robot-kinematic will fit on a Duet2. (not enough flash or RAM)
Simpler kinematics like CoreXYUV should work

@bkdfkup
you may want to try using > M955 P0 C"spi.cs4+spi.cs3"
I've had two boards that for some reason didn't work when connecting my accelerometers to it, but did via the daughterboard pinout command.
Probably wont work, but its quick and free so its worth a try.

@Aquilux

Sounds possible.

Why not just test it?

Configure one as an axis endstop. Center that axis and home it very slowly. Press the FSR and determine if it stops the movment and how much force is needed.

As is done with "sensor-less homing" you will want to reduce the stepper current when you actually decide to test it reaching the end of travel and pressing on the FSR.

Frederick

@dc42 said in Duet Smart Effector LEDs:

blown due to running the effector on 24V with jumper JP3 in

Thanks for the response, it was absolutely on-point. I will do some testing to try narrow it down.

Sure, no harm in that.

@cosmowave you don't need a pullup resistor anyway when driving a SSR.

@benecito we recently found a bug in the handling of large amounts of USB input. This affects all Duets except the Mini5+. This may account for the issue you are seeing on your Duet 2. We've fixed it in release 3.5.0-rc.2 which we hope to publish today. So please try that release.

I fixed it, i changed the motor direction to S0 instead of S1 for x and y and now its all good, with the changes for the high end stops.

Thx! - Solved.

@dc42 Apologies about the delay.

I received the 1HCL warranty replacement and installed it as before, but the connection problem persists; the MB6HC still doesn't recognize the expansion board, the STATUS LED on the 1HCL doesn't flash (the V_FUSED LED does light up solidly and the voltage indicators flash rapidly)

I attempted to diagnose the issue by seeing if there were any obvious problems such as powering the Mainboard and 1HCL with separate power supplies, checking the continuity of the RJ11 cable and voltage (there is continuity and voltage), cutting open the the RJ11 cable to see if their wires were twisted (they weren't), reflashing the Mainboard's firmware.

Nothing has worked and now I'm stumped.

@izeman said in Is there a need to upgrade my stepper drivers?:

THIS is the bench of HORROR

Nah, I can still see bench space!

Ian

@Wobi Hello, may I ask you what mount you are using for the 1LC tool board? If you have a link that would be great. Thanks

@NeoDue as noted in https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/33781/duet-3-wifi-module-firmware-2-1b4-random-disconnects, wifi module firmware 2.1beta6 seems to have solved this issue as well. It seems no delay is needed for a correct connection.

Therefore marked as solved as well.

@dc42
Yes, it had a CHEAP marlin board, on a (would be) professional printer - 600x600x800 actively heated closed printer, wich I am refurbishing now: DOWELL DH8.

Translated in english language, it's name would be: ”it almost works” or ”by me if you love tinkering”, or ”please don't be mad because so many failed big prints”, albeit this last one was most because of the strange filament (like ABS clogging the throat at 39C ambient), or because of the shitty belts (36h at 60C did't help them). Oh, and I forgot one important name: "please look for support elsewhere". Now, this was disturbing at this price, but then, a man got to do what a man got to do, and being the last straw ... DUET.

For 5k, this is what you get, but it needs only to add maybe 1k and some work to make it a reasonable good printer, so I can't complain too much.

Bottomline, it is true that, right now, USB stick is not needed anymore, but it may be in the future, from time to time. Not a big issue, anyway.

Thank you for your answers.
All the best,
Paul

@alexus it’s a K-type thermocouple. To connect it to Duet, you need a thermocouple board. This is the one we sell: https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Accessories/Thermocouple_Daughterboard

For temperature sensors connected directly to the Duet, use a thermistor or PT1000. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_choosing

Ian

@droftarts
I just plugged the servo, and it works!

Thank you for the support!

@martinv thanks for the update. I'll mark this as solved.