@mikep91 For the SD card structure, see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/SD_card

You need to run the version of DWC that ships with the firmware. It would be better if you downloaded the zip file of the whole RRF 3.4.6 firmware release In the case of RRF 3.4.6, ie " Duet2and3Firmware-3.4.6.zip" from https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/3.4.6 which has all the files you need.

This includes the correct firmware for your Duet board, the correct version of DWC, the updated WiFi firmware, and the IAP binary file (In-application programmer), which is used to update the firmware when using DWC. See https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Updating_firmware#required-files

For a list of things you need to change from 2.x to 3.x, see https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/RepRapFirmware/Migration_RRF2_to_RRF3

Ian

@mikep91

I tried doing this but I am getting the error that no heaters is assigned

M308 S0 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865"
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S1.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865"
M950 H1 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H1 B1 S1.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S500 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 500C
M143 H2 S500 ; set temperature limit for heater 2 to 500C
;M143 H3 S500 ; set temperature limit for heater 3 to 500C

@dc42 awesome, thank you!

@Drak said in Part Cooling Fan Setup:

M950 F0 C"fan3" Q200 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H0 F0 S"Main"

Try this better

@apak Thanks. I updated the M558 command. I also modified G31 to X0 y0 Z-0.25. This works but the only way I came to the -0.25 offset was I started a print and used babystepping to get to that offset that produced the best result. What I am trying to find out is how to create a calibration macro that will determine the correct offset and then update RRF G31 to use that offset without me having to manually change it. If you have any suggestions or resources I should look at that would be great. Thanks again.

@Herve_Smith by a "homing move" I mean any G0 or G1 command that stops when the corresponding endstop is triggered.

@MihaiDesigns no, you won't be able to manage 2m for the 10p cable.
For the 4p I would suggest using screened cable

@mfs12 Thanks for the heads up, I'll try the new version as soon as it's available. Thanks again.

@dc42 It was just a single axis I was trying to home. Sometimes it would home, do its bounce off, and then would appear to loose connection before doing the final slower homing move. When this happened it would appear to run the entire homing routine again for that axis.

I see your point about stepper motor wires, however I think this is different because it seems to be signal integrity problem rather than a broken connection, which isn't something I've ever had issues with on stepper motors. Also, since you can daisy-chain CAN boards, an issue with a single wire could also knock out lots of motors and sensors rather than a single component.

Thank you for raising the event types. I had not spotted that CAN disconnections were included. Looking at it now it says (RRF 3.5.0-beta.4 and later only) though, not RRF 3.4.0. Which one is it? I'm not against upgrading to the beta firmware if that's what it takes, however we are finding that the disconnections often last a lot less than 5s though, so I don't know if it's applicable to this scenario.

@MihaiDesigns See https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Temperature_connecting_PT100#wiring-the-pt100-temperature-sensor

PT100 temperature sensors can be wired in either a 2-wire or 4-wire configuration. 3-wire PT100 sensors are also available, but these will need to be wired as a 2-wire, or an extra wire added to be wired in 4-wire.

I think to wire it as a 2-wire, take both the wires from the side that has two wires, and wire them to the same terminal, ie side with one wire, wire goes to terminal 2, side with two wires, both got to terminal 3. Or I guess you can cut one of the wires from the side with two wires, and wire it as a 2-wire. If you can test this, I'll add a 3-wire tab to the documentation.

Ian

the io1 and io0 order needs to match the physical wiring connection, not just the motor order in m584.

@NeoDue

duhhhhh .... sorry about that, I thought I had discovered something .... alas, all I discovered that I can't read 😞

https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Troubleshooting/Duet_wont_respond

Best to start here and let us know how far you get.

@Maestro

Thank you for taking the time to check this over. I'm most grateful.

Here's where I'm at currently with the bed, where the Earth cables for the bed frame and 3mm safety plate are loose. The cable running around the inner perimeter of the heat mat is the lead coming from the heater, to the TCO. I had thought about cutting this down, but then thought to just stick it in-place.
Hn6aHqHlQWCicklyCbeZSw.jpg

iHHt9jfWTuC2A84s6I5yhg.jpg

I've also got some of that aluminium foil/closed cell foam of various thicknesses that I can also add, to sandwich between the heater and safety sheet if want.

Thank you again for you time and input.

Dizzwold.

@droftarts New to 3.5 I think....

@Arminas Check the technical data sheet or ask the motor manufacturer if it's not included.

I don't have experience with closeLoop steppers, but from what I gathered, it requires a powerful MCU to reach same speed levels as openLoop.
Which IMHO is funny, because the main reason why I'd use CL steppers is to increase speed.

I'd like to build a Delta based on my differential belt drive. It allows us to double up the effector speed, but without running the steppers at twice the revs.
At the same time, I can choose any reduction ratio when I need higher precision.
All that would run on a Duet2 with driver-expansion

@ageis said in Duet bed not receiving power:

M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0

Which pin do you want to use instead?

Find the pin you want to use and look up it's name here: https://docs.duet3d.com/en/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_2_family/Duet_2_WiFi_Ethernet_Hardware_Overview#pin-names

Then replace "bedheat" with that pin name.

@SanderLPFRG Make sure you have specified the correct sensor orientation. This is critical so the Duet knows which accelerometer axes match your printer axes.

Check the documentation here:
How to set the orientation

and here:
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m955-configure-accelerometer