Topics created by Arminas

@Arminas said in PT1000 thermistor configuration:

Could you please explain a little more about this test

Turn off power, disconnect the PT1000 from the 1LC Measure the resistance on the wires to the PT1000. You have already done this, resistance was 1102 ohms. Measure the resistance across the temp0 pins of the 1LC, without the PT1000 connected. It should be around 2.7k ohms. Measure the temp1 pins as well.

Generally, in order of most likely to least likely, spiky temperature readings are caused by:

intermittent wiring - loose connections, poor crimping, frayed wires, dry solder joints. It may only happen when the wiring moves, or when temperature changes. failing temperature sensor - may only show when at temperature Electrical interference - usually from heater or motor wiring running very close to the temperature sensor wiring. Generally shows when machine is operating Power supply issues - faulty or failing power supply, external power spikes (eg large/noisy dc motor on the same electrical circuit starting/stopping) Hardware issues - faulty Duet board. Try connecting the PT1000 to the other temperature input on the 1LC, or move the temperature sensor and heater to the mainboard to test Firmware bug - least likely because this is heavily tested, and would be reported by other users.

Ian

@droftarts Thank you, it worked 🙂

@Arminas said in What could cause this kind of artefacts on surface?:

Is it safe to use 2.4A for drivers on Duet2?

I've used 6-wire NEMA23 with Duet2. I wired them to have the highest torque and it was no problem with Duet2.
A little cooling fan for the back of the board won't hurt.

@Arminas A lot of work I know, but try swapping the toolboards over between the two machines? See if the problem moves or not?

@droftarts I get 100K if I measure between nozzle and another 1lc copper plated hole (not the one where wire grounding is connected). If I measure between nozzle and negative slot on PSU, I am getting 2.2 k.

@Arminas you could use a Duet 3 Mini but it would be overkill. If you don't need an Ethernet connection then a 5V Arduino connected to a mosfet and flyback diode to drive the solenoid would be simpler and cost less.

@droftarts Is there a way I can check if the TB 1LC is actually permanently damaged or not?

@Arminas said in Belt/idler issue and motors temperature:

I guess it's some kind of mechanical misalignment - when printhead moves in one direction, belt goes up to the upper flange of bearing stack. When printhead moves in opposite direction, belt slips down and jumps on the bottom flange.

It's mechanical. Disassemble and reassemble with a builders square.

@oliof ahh, that's true... there must be an internal fracture in the wire, another sensor is working good...

@Phaedrux instead of toothed idlers I have placed a bearing stack like in the RatRig (I assume those bearings will last longer).

Motors are not very smooth while turning by hand, motech motors nema23 on X axis and nema17 on Y.

Sure, no harm in that.

@Arminas said in Toolboard 1LC v1.3 wiring:

I will try to reach 60C

That should be okay, but monitor the temperature on the 1LC.

Ian

Have you seen this?https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_chamber

@Arminas In other word, is there a jerk setting that is good for both slower and faster printing speed, and for both high and low resolution stl's?

@droftarts omg, yes, I found it.... What a dumb mistake. Thank you...

@oliof Hi. would you mind taking a look at my X axis graph? It looks bad, but on the other hand, the amplitude is very low.Y.JPG X.JPG I took this measurement without "capture data during the whole length of move". Y axis looks beautiful.

@Arminas Check the technical data sheet or ask the motor manufacturer if it's not included.

@Arminas best to bump it then as i'm pretty sure RC1 will be out in a week or so