Topics created by deckingman

I started with eSun but found that their PLA became brittle very quickly. I switched to Rigid Ink and was happy with them, including with their PETG, but then they stopped selling filament. Next I tried E3D Edge PETG until they stopped selling filament too. Then I bought Overture PETG from Ooznest until they stopped selling it. So most recently I have bought Overture PETG and Overture Easy Nylon via Amazon UK.

Update - no longer available - a good home for it has been found.

@deckingman Its currently only available on the wifi boards, part of that is because of the work required to initiate outgoing connections. With other tasks ongoing i cant give an estimation of when we will start to look at this.

@KenW I've sent you a PM as I don't suppose many people are interested in what we have to say to each other, even though this is in the general discussion section.

@deckingman That overlapping text content may be expected in standalone mode, because RRF concatenates messages that are not fetched frequently enough. You may get around that by increasing the poll interval in the DWC settings.

@o_lampe said in 4 months in 6 minutes:

@deckingman The whole project went way to fast. 😉

That's one benefit of being retired and not having to find time for a day job. ☺

What do you print with this machine now?

Currently I'm mostly printing Hydroponics/Aeroponics towers (another hobby I've recently picked up). This sort of thing

034small.jpg

Obviously not the black tank and not all in one print. The parts are modular, about 230mm tall and slot together.

I'm also playing around with flexible filaments and making bracelets for my grand daughter. The LGX Ace should be good for flexibles because it has a very short filament path from the extruder outlet to the (Mosquito) hot end inlet. But I'm still dialling that in.

Often, a new printer is used to print parts for it's clones if there is enough interest from others. But the all_metall approach makes it difficult to reprap your machine.

Yes, it most definitely isn't a Reprap. I'm still debating whether to sell my lathe and milling machine. Now that the printer is finished, I have no use for them and the money and space would come in handy. But who knows what the future holds so it might be a decision that I come to regret.

@jay_s_uk Ahh - cool.

@deckingman said in Add offset to reported Vin similar to M912:

@gloomyandy Dunno. I thought I read somewhere that it does but maybe not?

Just reads. By default only every 10 seconds. If you need more, use a loop within. You'd have to get pretty crazy to cause a performance issue.

@SJI no, its open loop control after all.

@The_Mechanic yes, you can make that change in bed.g at the beginning and then change it back at the end.

@dc42 said in Could use some help commissioning a tool board:

@deckingman try swapping the two conductors over. It doesn't damage anything if you get them the wrong way round. One way to swap them is to use fine tweezers to remove the crimps from the ZH connector and re-insert them the other way round.

Thanks David- that fixed it!

@droftarts For future reference, it might be worth mentioning this in the CAN troubleshooting section of the docs or in the tool board connection section. Also for reference, I discovered that if you gentry prize up the "tang" on the jst zh shell with a very fine screw driver ( a pin or fine needle would also work), the connectors easily slide out.

@deckingman I just wanted to mention that it is best practice to use the lowest possible PSU voltage for the EMF calculator, when all motors are running and heaters/fans are on. That's the real back-EMF scenario to figure out borderline values...

I see. Good idea, thanks.

@dc42 said in 6HC - which temperature input uses which ADC bank?:

@deckingman on the 6HC, temp 0/1/2 are on one bank and temp3 is on the other.

Thanks David.

@o_lampe Good thoughts. I'll look into the "parked tools" thing. I've just looked at my slicer and it seems that I can use a custom shape rather than a fixed rectangle, by defining it as an stl and uploading it. I'll add that to my seemingly ever growing "to-do" list. 👍

Thanks to the generosity of @elmoret, these items are no longer for sale.

@elmoret Tim. Thank you so much for the PayPal donation. Rest assured that one way or another, I will ensure that they are donated to a suitably deserving cause or person.

@mrehorstdmd, no problem, thank!

@Dizzwold The terminal blocks are just standard DIN rail blocks. I can't remember the make and model but they weren't anything special - just some cheap ones off Amazon I think. I figured they would be OK for this low voltage/low current application. Yes each set of blocks are connected together using bus bars. But I ran out of bus bars so the last block of 0V ones on the right are connected together using link wires on the rear terminals. I've edited the picture that you likely saw on my YT video with labels to show the bus bars and link wires. Here you go.......

DuetForum.jpg

EDIT. Not all DIN rail terminals have provision for bus bars. They aren't strictly necessary but if you don't have to use link wires, they effectively double the number of terminals available to connect other things.

@deckingman yep ground all the metal work as usual, by your description the hotend will then be grounded already so you do not need to use the latest tool board that also grounds the mounting holes, because the hotend is already grounded. Also brass screws are unnecessary, steel ones work fine in this application.