Yes have used G30 S-1, i have had it, or as it seemed working ok with G30 S-1,,
But when i try a G32 it will seem to probe ok then at one point or another it may probe good with the first hit then retract and on the second hit it messes up either hits and skids a few steps across the bed or i get the message no probe hit, it just seem to be very erratically and i can't get it working right, so for now i pulled it and went back to my old setup and i am doing a manual probing for now...
I tried different wire's all kinds of different settings in the firmware but with same results starts off looking good then at one point messes up and not always the same probe point.
Its a delta so i may just switch to the duet effector probe.. hopefully that will work better..
@theruttmeister I've printed ABS almost exclusively for the last 7 years. 50C in the chamber will prevent delamination of even large prints. It doesn't smell so good, but as for cancer...smell or lack of smell is not an indicator of safety. There are plenty of things you can't smell that are bad for you and plenty of things you can smell that aren't. Pleasantness of an odor is also not an indication of safety.
ABS is a blend of three polymers, one suspected carcinogen, one 'probable' carcinogen and a known carcinogen. Given what we know about micro-particle emissions from 3D printers, the professional advice I have given for some time is to not print ABS without a HEPA filtered enclosed printer.
ABS absorbs less moisture than PLA or PETG or nylon. ABS adsorbs moisture- it sticks to the surface without penetrating the filament deeply- much less of a problem than absorption. Since you rarely print with ABS, your spool probably sits unused for months at a time. That doesn't work well for any filament. Store it in a dry box when not using it, and use it in a reasonable amount of time (maybe within a few months) and it will be fine.
I don't print with ABS. I used to, and I have used it for specific projects where the client needed ABS (like a tube with solid 30mm thick walls, 300mm tall, so I've dealt with difficult prints). And nothing absorbs more moisture than nylon! Its basically a sponge! If you really care about mechanical properties, you should be drying your filament no matter what. Melt processing with moisture in the polymer can have dramatic effects on molecular weight.
ABS is no more difficult to print than PLA (except you don't have to mess with print cooling fans) if your printer can be closed (a bag, a box, etc.) and gets up to 50C or so. Small ABS prints and even large single walled vases work OK on open machines.
That's a very large IF...
ABS is an amorphous polymer, it will ALWAYS be more difficult to print with than semi-crystalline polymers. A printer that can produce useable parts 150mm long from ABS will be able to print far larger parts in PLA or PET, or even the right blend of Nylon.
People absolutely can use ABS, and do so with success. I'm not disputing that.
But unless you need the chemical solubility of ABS, or it meets a specific regulatory requirement, there are multiple polymers that are less technically demanding to work with.
But then I print anything I need to be structural from NylonX... cause it looks nice.
I added the I1 works correct now 0 then 1000 when triggered..
also changed M305 to T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8
as suggested works but getting the same cold temp readings as I did with my old settings
maybe it will read better when I test the heater that's the next step..
@cata On the quad, there was no motor or any other mechanism that would indicate some means of actively mixing the filaments together. Also, the filament path to and through the nozzle was too short to indicate that there is any effective passive mixing. So as far as I have been able to observe, and from the very limited literature available, I would say that as far as mixing is concerned, the quad has the same limitations as a Diamond hot end. That is to say, the filament coming out of the nozzle is akin to stripey toothpaste. That will be the same, no matter what material goes into the input.
So the colour of any printed object will vary around it's perimeter. It would not be possible to make say "Fire Engine Red" which in CYMK colour space uses proportions of roughly 0% Cyan, 84% Magenta, 80% Yellow and 19% Black because unless the filaments are truly mixed, those proportions will vary throughout the cross section of the filament being extruded. For sure, one face would have a heavy Magenta bias, another would have a heavy Yellow bias. Other facets of the print would vary. Maybe if the printed object was cylindrical, at some point around the perimeter it might actually be "Fire Engine Red" (perhaps).
The demonstration unit that I saw at the TCT show, was printing with transparent filament. This is a trick that I use with the Diamond which disguises the fact that the filaments are not being fully mixed. It's OK and works reasonable well but of course, not every object lends itself to being printed with transparent filament.
The unit was very small and compact, I'll say that. It was running very slowly though. If I was considering making a purchase, I would want to know what the reason for that was. If it has something to do with limited melt rate or thermal management (there was no heat break that I could see), then that would be a potential reason for me not to make a purchase.
But, other than a brief view at the TCT show, I have no experience of this thing. What I have written above is just my own opinion based on limited observation.
I think it should be possible to send GCode files from YAT for immediate execution, using the menu Send/File command. What you won't get is readouts of temperatures or the possibility to pause sending.
could the problem be because i am doing a test print with S3D and have set different profiles
to change the temp every 10 layers starting at high temp and dropping 5% till i hit 80 layers…
so it will have to cool between every 10 layers should i put a m116 for each profile?.