Topics created by gorf26

@dc42

Thanks What i ended up just trying was changing from the thermistor 2 port to the thermistor 3 port and setting the new pin number in the config no other changes to the config.

and it's working correct temp now, so looks like the input on 2 for the thermistor is bad.

it there a easy way to fix it, or just forget it and go with what i have running now, I don't picture ever needing a 3rd thermistor...

Gary

@t3p3tony
I have my config setup for the piezo would that setup work for a test of will need to modify it..

Thanks gary

@gorf26
...what engikeneer said,
use smaller layer height but print infill at every 2nd layer only, to safe some time.

@gorf26 said in Probing G30 Help:

So Should i do a G32 every time before a print,?
And should I do a G29 once and load the map or do that before each print also.?

See what you can get away with.

@gorf26 said in E0 Heater Fault problem:

my D is set to 7.6 how high can that go, or should i bother with only about 1% oscillation?

If you're stable within 1c I wouldn't bother trying to adjust any of the tuned parameters.

@gorf26 I was making an example calculation to show that a UPS will provide sufficient energy a 24V based UPS may fit better in your case. A good description for a UPS solution can be found in this thread:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/12540/fitting-a-dc-ups

Will give it a try thanks

PETG can be machined right, maybe i will just mill the flat support area's..

Gary

Yes have used G30 S-1, i have had it, or as it seemed working ok with G30 S-1,,
But when i try a G32 it will seem to probe ok then at one point or another it may probe good with the first hit then retract and on the second hit it messes up either hits and skids a few steps across the bed or i get the message no probe hit, it just seem to be very erratically and i can't get it working right, so for now i pulled it and went back to my old setup and i am doing a manual probing for now...
I tried different wire's all kinds of different settings in the firmware but with same results starts off looking good then at one point messes up and not always the same probe point.
Its a delta so i may just switch to the duet effector probe.. hopefully that will work better..

Thanks gary

@gorf26 said in M558 probe Help with feedrate:

Only strange thing i have seen in ver3 is when homing i don't see the endstops trigger in DWC they say on NO all the time

Have you also updated DWC to 3.1.1?

@gorf26 Im in the US, and my top two favorite PETG brands are Atomic and Prusament. I’ve also had good luck with SnoLabs.

@mrehorstdmd said in ABS print help first time at ABS:

@theruttmeister I've printed ABS almost exclusively for the last 7 years. 50C in the chamber will prevent delamination of even large prints. It doesn't smell so good, but as for cancer...smell or lack of smell is not an indicator of safety. There are plenty of things you can't smell that are bad for you and plenty of things you can smell that aren't. Pleasantness of an odor is also not an indication of safety.

ABS is a blend of three polymers, one suspected carcinogen, one 'probable' carcinogen and a known carcinogen. Given what we know about micro-particle emissions from 3D printers, the professional advice I have given for some time is to not print ABS without a HEPA filtered enclosed printer.

ABS absorbs less moisture than PLA or PETG or nylon. ABS adsorbs moisture- it sticks to the surface without penetrating the filament deeply- much less of a problem than absorption. Since you rarely print with ABS, your spool probably sits unused for months at a time. That doesn't work well for any filament. Store it in a dry box when not using it, and use it in a reasonable amount of time (maybe within a few months) and it will be fine.

I don't print with ABS. I used to, and I have used it for specific projects where the client needed ABS (like a tube with solid 30mm thick walls, 300mm tall, so I've dealt with difficult prints). And nothing absorbs more moisture than nylon! Its basically a sponge! If you really care about mechanical properties, you should be drying your filament no matter what. Melt processing with moisture in the polymer can have dramatic effects on molecular weight.

ABS is no more difficult to print than PLA (except you don't have to mess with print cooling fans) if your printer can be closed (a bag, a box, etc.) and gets up to 50C or so. Small ABS prints and even large single walled vases work OK on open machines.

That's a very large IF...
😀
ABS is an amorphous polymer, it will ALWAYS be more difficult to print with than semi-crystalline polymers. A printer that can produce useable parts 150mm long from ABS will be able to print far larger parts in PLA or PET, or even the right blend of Nylon.

People absolutely can use ABS, and do so with success. I'm not disputing that.
But unless you need the chemical solubility of ABS, or it meets a specific regulatory requirement, there are multiple polymers that are less technically demanding to work with.

But then I print anything I need to be structural from NylonX... cause it looks nice.

@oliof

Thanks for all you advice i did make a few changes off what has been said moved the rod closer to the effector, and a few others i am just trying not have to replace the rods with magnet ones.

Thanks gary

Just an update

Got the print working ok did a 20x20x20 cube and it did good 20 on the z, 19.87 on both the x and y changed the steps
slightly now so size should be good..

but i'm guessing there still is steps missing when run at normal speeds, i had to drop the jerk to 400 x and y
the speeds down to 1500 mm/min x y movement and first layer running at 30%

so i am thinking it may be the cheep Chinese 12mm linear bearings not running so smooth..
any suggestion's as a decent replacement bearing ?.. i'm in the usa.
or any other thoughts ?

Thanks gary

Thanks I got it work, was a typo..

So now I will calibrate it..

Thanks

I added the I1 works correct now 0 then 1000 when triggered..
also changed M305 to T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8
as suggested works but getting the same cold temp readings as I did with my old settings
maybe it will read better when I test the heater that's the next step..

Gary

@cata On the quad, there was no motor or any other mechanism that would indicate some means of actively mixing the filaments together. Also, the filament path to and through the nozzle was too short to indicate that there is any effective passive mixing. So as far as I have been able to observe, and from the very limited literature available, I would say that as far as mixing is concerned, the quad has the same limitations as a Diamond hot end. That is to say, the filament coming out of the nozzle is akin to stripey toothpaste. That will be the same, no matter what material goes into the input.

So the colour of any printed object will vary around it's perimeter. It would not be possible to make say "Fire Engine Red" which in CYMK colour space uses proportions of roughly 0% Cyan, 84% Magenta, 80% Yellow and 19% Black because unless the filaments are truly mixed, those proportions will vary throughout the cross section of the filament being extruded. For sure, one face would have a heavy Magenta bias, another would have a heavy Yellow bias. Other facets of the print would vary. Maybe if the printed object was cylindrical, at some point around the perimeter it might actually be "Fire Engine Red" (perhaps).

The demonstration unit that I saw at the TCT show, was printing with transparent filament. This is a trick that I use with the Diamond which disguises the fact that the filaments are not being fully mixed. It's OK and works reasonable well but of course, not every object lends itself to being printed with transparent filament.

The unit was very small and compact, I'll say that. It was running very slowly though. If I was considering making a purchase, I would want to know what the reason for that was. If it has something to do with limited melt rate or thermal management (there was no heat break that I could see), then that would be a potential reason for me not to make a purchase.

But, other than a brief view at the TCT show, I have no experience of this thing. What I have written above is just my own opinion based on limited observation.