Topics created by Shoki

@Shoki To add to what @dc42 said, a 1K ohm pullup should give a voltage of around 4V for the signals. This should be enough; the TB6600 datasheet has the input voltage on CW/CCW, CLK, and ENABLE (as well as other pins) as between -0.2V to 0.8V for low, and between 2V to 5.5V for high, which explains why 1.4V doesn't work, but 4V should. See top of page 5 here: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/408/TB6600HG-483084.pdf

I think you have an MKS TB6600 board. The files for this are available here: https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Big-Current-Driver/tree/master/MKS TB6600-Black
There are some resistors on each input that can be seen in the schematic, labelled R6, R8 and R9, but unfortunately they don't list the values of components.
https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-Big-Current-Driver/blob/master/MKS TB6600-Black/MKS TB6600(Black) V1.1_001/MKS TB6600(B)lack V1.1_001 SCH.png

Ian

@Shoki In that case it sounds like the 1XD is faulty, so let's exchange it. Please send an email to warranty@duet3d.com and CC your reseller. Include a link to this forum thread and the details of your original purchase. You'll receive a reply with a form to fill out.

@Shoki try adding 10K pull down resistors between each of the IO_Out pins (the ones you use to control the heaters) and ground.

@Shoki said in Probing gcode G38 VS G30:

But which endstop does it sense while moving ? All of them ? I did not find a parameter to tell him which probe it needs to monitor ?

usually you do this per axis, so G1 Xnnn H4 for X, G1 Ynnn H4 and so on

@edsped I have added an on/off switch on my PanelDue so I turn it off when I don't use it. Hardware solution to a software problem.

I haven't tried this myself, but it may be an option. FreeCAD can apparently convert scad to step.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVcTpP3qqX8

@T3P3Tony Thanks a lot ! I missed them when I read through the object model I don't know why.

@Shoki
Have you done a PID tuning for the hotend with the fan running full blast? In another thread, I read it was running at only 70% during PID tune...

@dc42 THANK YOU. It works perfectly now. You're the boss.

For anyone reading this, I spent 4 hours searching through RS and Farnell for references.

I removed all the cable with impedance not being 120 Ohms, and searched for 22-24 Awg cables.

The one I find that suit the best this application are the following :
(If some of the specialists here could confirm these choice that would be great.)

Alpha wire 6413, 2x(2x24AWG), Impedance 120 Ohms, Outer Diameter 7.1mm, Temp -20 to 80, unshielded :
https://fr.farnell.com/alpha-wire/6413-sl005/cable-24awg-2-pair-slate-30-5m/dp/1746265?st=6413

Lapp Kabel 2170204T, 2x(2x24AWG), Impedance 100-120 Ohms, Outer Diameter 7.1mm, Temp -5 to 70, shielded (i think)
https://fr.farnell.com/lapp-kabel/2170204t/cable-profibus-par-metre/dp/3034318

And if you want way overkill, you can run two of these cable

CFBUS.LB.021, 2x20AWG, Impedance 120 Ohms, Outer Diameter 8.0mm, Temp -50 to 70, shielded
https://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/cables-de-controle/1854913

The last one is the only one that is purposely made for dragchains and to move.

I will try my luck with the first one.

@fbunel said in Heater fault not detected:

I did do a PID Tune of each tool and for the bed (as you can see in my config.g, each tool has different PID parameters).

Sorry, I wasn't sure whether these entries originated from E3D.

Finally, your example demonstrates how valuable additional protection is against heaters running wild. A lonely thermistor can fail, and if not, crimps, connectors or cables will do. On my printer, I have a chamber heater which I could only "tune" by hand - I had to estimate the values for M307. As a safeguard, I installed a second thermistor to shut down the heater temporarily if it exceeds a certain level (with M143). As long as you have some spare ports on the Duet … 😎

according to @fbunel the issue was solved.

Depending on the current needed you can use both options and still draw the power from the external 12v supply.

Both the fan and heater output is switched on the low side, so you can wire the LED+ to your 12V supply and the LED- to the - of either the fan or heater output and have it work just the same.

A inline fuse is always a good idea when you're circumventing the Duets fuse, other than that LEDd don't require any safety precautions.

@fbunel said in Fan with multiple voltages:

So I guess this is the reason for my problem. Can anyone confirm ?

Yes, I can.

Do you think I did some damages to my board or my PSU running this wrongly ?

No.