@ablack As @jay_s_uk has said and you use the "A" parameter in M954 to denote the CAN address you want to use. Plus you need to put a special IAP in the /firmware folder of the main board that you are going to use as an expansion board to facilitate firmware updates by the usual method. Fora 6HC, that file is Duet3_CANiap32_MB6HC.bin

Bear in mind that main boards only have a single CAN connector, so if you have other expansion boards, the 6HC must be the last one in the chain.

Here is a link to everything you need to know. https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/CAN_connection

You might need to scroll down to find the section "Mainboard as expansion board".

@alankilian I might have found the problem.
I checked the resistances of the 5V signal wires
from the breakout board to the stepper drivers again and I found one cable that has infinite resistance.
It seems like it is one of the dir+- cables. So that would explain why the motor is running but cannot change its director.

At first I was expecting it to be the crimps or the connectors, but it appears that even with new crimps the cable is corrupted.

I'm checking in again in the evening and take a new cable, measure the resistances and hope that this solves to problem.

@bewaren the sharp dips suggest to me that you have an intermittent connection in the wiring between the thermistor and the Duet. This is most likely caused by a bad crimp connection at one end of the cable between the Duet and the Smart Effector. But I suggest you also check that the soldering of the 8-way connector on the Smart Effector looks OK, in particular that all the pins have been soldered. That connector is hand-soldered so mistakes are possible. Likewise, check the soldering of the 2-pin temperature sensor connector on the Smart Effector.

Ok,
Thanks you for all your reply
i will test to unscrew method

but ok if happen is not a problem i didn't know that

hmm is there a way to mark this thread solved ?

@fcwilt Thank you. That worked. But I almost got a heart attack. I Checked the connection, checked it again, then checked the connection. I flipped the switch and I heard a strange sound! It was just my arm had snagged the curtin and it popped on the rod.

Anyway, it worked. Thank you

@verminsup First, are you SURE those are BLDC motors?

I see a ribbon cable coming out of the encoder, and a two-wire connector coming out of the back of the motor, so I think they are DC motors with an incremental encoder.

Let's start there and see what you need for a motor-position controller after determining what kind of motor you have.

If you can post:

What Stratasys machine you are trying to convert Links to any documents for that printer Close-up photographs of the motor connections Names, numbers or other markings on the motors you are trying to control

It would help a LOT.

@gost101 That will be fine as long as you don't draw too much current for the 5 Volt supply or the connector you are using.

Thanks for sharing! It's common to need to take EMC precautions with stepper motor cables when the machine as a whole is not shielded.

On the Duet 3 MB6HC, EXP3HC and Duet 3 Mini we added additional components on the board to reduce EMI from stepper cables, so in some cases no additional precautions will be required.

I don't really understand what you mean, but if you've got it figured out, that's awesome.

@N131MG Thank you for your info on this. Its a great help 🙂
Love the test board by the way. Envious.

FYI, I have not yet gotten around to this, as I need to travel for work, but I hope to get it done when I return next weekend. I'm still scared of frying a rather expensive board, so if anyone else has experience doing this, I'm happy to hear any tips you have.

Veti,

Copy & paste into Amazon search field: B06XCZC89W

I did not buy from this particular vendor, as the vendor I did buy from was via eBay and that vendor has disappeared. However, this vendor seems to be selling exactly the same product that I purchased through eBay. I can not vouch for this vendor but his product appears to be the same exact product. The case is same, the ferrules the same count and color and has same crimper.

The 'bootlace ferrule' crimper tool is Nr: HSC8 6-4, which is the same as that marked on my crimper!

My crimper works perfectly. I haven't tracked down the wire issue yet on my delta printer, but its on today's do-list. I am satisfied with the ferrule crimper's functionality, it works finely. Things happen.

To afford easier crimper usability, I replaced the Phillips cross-point ferrule size 'adjustment 'setting' screw with a 3/4" (0,75inch/19mm) long pan head screw, so that its easy to remove without having to resort to using a screw driver to change ferrule size. Screw in/out by forefinger & thumb, etc, eg, loose.

Hope this helps

3mm

@bearer

Sorry I did not read your reply properly. Yes it did fix it by reverting back, however as I was buying a filament monitor, I could not use that firmware.

Regards,
Sam

It's a typo, it should say E2-E6 heaters, not E2-E7.

@flux said in Connect servo motor to Duet2Wifi with Duex5:

i can use a servo OR a heater, but don't booth a same time on a same channel?

Correct.