I'll check those thanks.

There is a link to the PCB source files at the end of https://duet3d.com/wiki/Smart_effector_and_carriage_adapters_for_delta_printer.

awesome, thanks!

I guess there is another vote for dual extruder 🙂

https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=3003

If you want to get them from us in the UK then please send me an email info@duet3d.com
If you are located the other side of th atlantic then it makes more sense to get them from Haydn directly.

Thanks a lot, works like a charm

@myschetzky:

Ah of course. Lower temperature while probing.

I wonder what s3d will do if I set a low temp in the starting script before the bedleveling routine.

I’ll experiment a little and return. 🙂

That's exactly how to do it, set a low temp, I use 150deg c, then set the real temp afterwards.

[c]M140 S[bed0_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[bed0_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M104 S150 ; set extruder temp to 150C cold enough to avoid ooze but get some temp on it
M109 S150 ; wait for extruder temp
G29;
G1 X5 Y20 F1500 ; avoid binder clips
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp[/c]

Am now trying this one instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2740387
As having the nut trap for the large nut is really useful.

EDIT - seems to work okay. Sensitivity is normal.

The sensor part should work with the 6-pin harness not connected. If the green LED is on at full brightness continually, then it sounds like a bad board to me.

Are you saying that with your new effector, the green led doesn't flash if you give the nozzle a sharp tap upwards?

Could it be that there are metal parts in your assembly that are touching the components on the underside not the board?

Thanks - I was beginning to think it was a beta thing. My life is too busy to test & track betas these days, and so I only read release notes when I upgrade to a stable version. These days, I just want things to work.

I do, however, appreciate all the people who take the time to develop & test the alphas and betas. I spent a couple years as a designated beta tester for 2 different handheld GPS units several years ago. I well remember the time involved, testing hardware and firmware features over and over, trying all sorts of various ways to wring out any problems. Even before then, I worked for HP (commercial printer group) for a while as a firmware test technician, running HP-UX routines and slaughtering hordes of trees in the process.

David suggested (in another thread) changing the polarity to N and S in the arms at adjacent mag balls, this solved my problem with the print fan sensitivity. It might be worth a try

CAN, LIN, whatever. It's not my field of expertise so I wouldn't presume to suggest what type of data bus to use. I'd guess whichever bus technology is used, it'll need two conductors then another two for power. So for anything that uses 4 conductors or less, like a single stepper or filament monitor, then a (local) module would be pretty pointless. But for say a hot end carriage, that has a heater, fan, temperature sensor, a Z probe, probably part cooling fan(s), possible lights, possibly axis limit switches etc, then a local module fixed to the carriage say, makes a lot of sense. For sure it'll take a bit of space but on the gantry/carriage, not the hot end itself. Any extra weight would likely be compensate for by only needing short conductors between the module and components with just data and power going back to a central point. Of course with Delta printers, everything is a lot more compact and it's relatively easy to fit the electronics close to all the stepper motors, which themselves are all close together but for those of use with motors scattered around a large frame, running all the conductors back to a central point can be a bit of a nightmare.

Anyway, enough of my ramblings and apologies for going off topic.

Yes that should be OK.

Yes, you are welcome to do that.

@dc42:

Tim, do all E3D heater cartridges come with the Microfit connector now?

Nope, only the premium ones (available in 12v/30w or 24v/30w).

I found the problem. Will be fixed in firmware 1.20beta12. Meanwhile, with the smart effector you can use P1 in the M558 command and P50 in the G31 command.

Why do you want to change the sensitivity? Do you get errors during the print that stem from it?

and the wiki describes a blinking pattern of the LED that confirm if your are on the default or if it accepted your custom value.

Personally, i also though i needed to change the sensitivity but after 2-3 test I went back to default and havent had an issues since.

Cheers

If the green LED does not flash a few seconds after power up, most likely it's an issue with the wiring of +3.3V or GND from the Z probe connector to the 8-pin connector on the effector. It could be mis-wired, or there may be a bad crimp connection.

I think he'll be putting them up soon, but if you email him he can probably get you a set. Maker@713Maker.com

These would let you use your trick trucks, the magball arms, and the Smart effector.