Having M83 in config.g only causes problems if you slice your models using absolute extruder coordinates (instead of the relative coordinates we recommend) AND you don't include a M82 command in the start gcode to tell the firmware that.

In macro files, extruder coordinates are always relative to the present position, because there is no way for the macro to know how much extrusion has already been done.

Absolute extruder coordinates are a hangover from the early days of 3D printing. Now that we have extrusion factor modification (M221), mixing extruders and macro files, they make no sense.

Yes, see M581 in the GCode wiki page.

Check that you don't have the motor or endstop connectors swapped, for example you may have the endstop at the top of the tower driven by the Y motor connected to the X or the Z endstop input instead of the X input. You can verify which motor is driving which carriage by commanding the motors to move individually as described in the wiki page on configuring firmware for delta printers.

I Already figured it out from another post on this forum, thx again for all the help guys.. the community is amazing!

If I may "hijack" this thread, bc it relevant for my topic. I do drive a big Delta with NEMA23 motors and set the drivers to 1500mA. I do blow along the board (above and beneath) with a big 80mm fan on one side, and a "pulling" 80mm fan on the other. This alone leads to thermal shutdown of one or more drivers after several hours of printing. I did put some small self-glueing heatsinks on the underside and now it doesn't overheat anymore.
Now I am wondering, if I do something wrong via config? Because everything I read about the cooling states, that I should be good with minimal airflow.

I'm using the Expansion Breakout board with some Automation Technologies Inc. Microstep Drives (KL-4042D) https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2014/05/KL-4042D.pdf and it's working well. I can send upload some pictures of the wiring if it helps.

I would look into using a STM32, they are arduino compatible and very cheap, last one I picked up for £1.65 from ebay. Alternatively an ESP8266, still cheap <£5 but also includes WIFI.

Only if you can work out the offset within the file at which the print starts the layer at 500.2mm.

There are lots of threads on fans.
Easiest options:

use all 24v fans if you have 24v PSU use all 5V fans if you can

Or search for buck converter/secondary PSU options.

Thanks David, it was an missing ";" before an comment.

Thanks, that's useful.

@Yonkiman:

I just updated to 1.21RC1, and the reporting issue is fixed as you said.

But I'd like to better understand how you are handling the active low case. If you are using a NC switch (the safe way to do endstops) and want active low behavior, the STOP input would need to have a pull-down enabled, with the switch between the STOP input and 3.3V. When the carriage is not homed, the switch connects STOP to 3.3V, so the input is high. When the carriage homes, the switch opens, and the uC's internal pulldown takes the input to ~0V, so the input would be low.

However when I enable "active low" mode, the input is still pulled up to 3.3V, so there is no way to pull the input low. (Unless you are using a NO switch and tie one end of the switch to ground.)

How is active low supposed to work?

Active low would be used for a NO switch or a Hall effect endstop sensor.

@dc42:

Your M305 P0 command is for a 10K thermistor (T10000) but you have a 100K thermistor.

well that was famously embarrassing … TY ...

Let that be a lesson to ye kidz ... stay in school ... reading comprehension, and working on tiny connectors and reading small print tutorials off the web till yer eyes twitch - may cause you to make silly mistakes ...

Changed the T values for that heater H0 ... and viola' - room temp is reading at 21*C on cold bed [ H0 ]

BTW, I think the problem was related with the poor wifi signal strength. As soon as I had the camera link, it failed to communicate. With the new ESP module, with antenna, all is working fine.

@akku3D:

To switch between "home wifi" and "on the go" i have to connect with USB to disable wifi (M552 S0) and start accesspoint (M552 S2).
Is there a way to switch it without a USB Connection?

You could do it using a PanelDue, or connect a push button to a spare endstop input and set up a trigger macro using M580.

I bought this but never used it. It seems to hold the glass very well to the bed. But again I just test fitted and didn’t print with it.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/500X500X0-2mm-High-Quality-Transparent-Smooth-Silicone-Rubber-Sheet-/152364320279?nav=SEARCH

You can have the endstop at either end for x and y but still have the origin (0,0) at the front left, but sometimes like with the z axis it makes sense for it to be at the bottom on an i3 style printer or you would have to wait 5 minutes for it to go all the way to the top and back down again.

If you want your endstop at the high end configure it as the high end endstop S2 (I think).

Edit you configure it as M574 X1 Y1 S1
For X at low end Y at low end active high switch
But if you want x endstop at the right then it would be
M574 X2 Y1 S1.

Does the print get narrower after 36 layers, and do you have a minimum layer time configured in the slicer?