It probably wouldn't work with anything other than that nylon foam. If you can find it...
Its cheaper than silicone, excellent insulation value, actually sticks to glue and its rigid!
If I couldn't get that foam I'd probably go with something involving shoulder bolts in slots to let the MIC6 expand, with the heater sitting in a cutout in the mounting frame, and a retaining plate below that (to support the insulation), attached to the frame not the plate. And just use PEEK washers or thin spacers to insulate between the frame and plate.
; Run when the print is paused, and then canceled.
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set hotend temp to 0
M140 S0 ; Set bed temp to 0
M106 S255 ; Fan at 100 to cool nozzle and bed
M220 S100 ; Set speed factor back to 100% in case it was changed
M221 S100 ; Set extrusion factor back to 100% in case it was changed
M290 R0 S0 ; clear babystepping
M204 P1000 T4000 ; Set printing and travel accelerations
M566 X900 Y900 Z30 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) (Jerk)
G28 XY ; home XY
M98 P"0:/sys/CurrentsNormal.g" ; return motor currents to normal
M98 P"0:/sys/ZSpeedsNormal.g" ; return Z axis speeds to normal
M84 ; turn off steppers
G4 S60 ; wait 1 minute for nozzle to cool
M107 ; turn off the fan
M98 P"0:/macros/Musical Tunes/TwoBits.g" ; play a tune
I suppose now with conditional gcode the homing at the start of a print could easily be made optional, so the logic of turning off the motors since I need to re-home anyway isn't as valid.
I can now get the current layer, but it is reporting the wrong total layers since I am using variable layer height.
Found [total_layer_count] in prusaslicer placeholder but don't know what keyword RRF use to read total layers.
update: Looked through the source code and it seems that it is currently calculated instead of directly reading from the file.
@jsinicro Cantherm makes a wide variety of them, most cost about $1 (in the US). They have all the safety certifications and actual quality control so they should behave according to specs. I wouldn't buy the no name cheap stuff that sells 5 or 10 for $1. I would also avoid self resetting units. You don't want an unsafe condition to keep cycling power to the heater on and off. Example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cantherm/SDF-DF144S/1014764
There are two critical temperatures- the safe operating temperature limit (holding temperature) and the temperature at which the TCO opens. The two are usually 20-30C apart because they self-heat. The self-heating is a function of the amount of current they carry. If you intend to operate the bed at 120C, you will probably need to get a TCO that is rated to open at about 150C or so. Read the spec sheet/ap notes. It isn't rocket science.
your tool fans are mapped incorrectly.
Thermostatically controlled fans shouldn't be mapped to a tool using M563.
M563 P0 S"Main (0.4)" D0 H1 F1
M563 P0 S"Main (0.4)" D0 H1 F0 assuming fan0 is your part cooling fan
Thank you for the support so far.
we were able to run impulse motors with 1XD boards & run upto 100mm/s travel speed. No issues with the print after upgrade to the firmware as suggested. As observed: the earlier nema 23 motors were working better with external drivers than with the on-board drivers. I believe its because of the smart drivers that compensate for the back emf.(hope so).
@chuckonelli take your original M584
M584 X5 Y6 Z7:8:9 C2 E4:3:0:1
That uses physical driver order so on a duet 2, they are as follows
0 = X
1 = Y
2 = Z
3 = E0
4 = E1 and so on
M563 uses the Extruder order as defined in M584
So in your original M584 you're using E0, Z, Y and X in that order. So rather than the driver mapping used in M584 in M563 you now use
E0 = 0 = D0
Z = 1 = D1
Y = 2 = D2
X = 3 = D3
If you'd ordered them differently in M584 then that ordering changes.
If you'd used M584 E6:7:2:1 the D0 would be driver 6, D2 would be driver 2 and so on
After running sudo apt upgrade you should use M122 to verify that the board firmware and DCS have been updated to what you expect. Also check the expansion boards with M122 B# (where # is the can address of the board) just to make sure the firmware has been applied. If it hasn't, try sudo apt etc again, and if it still hasn't you can use M997 to force an update which usually does it. If it STILL doesn't update, you may need to use BOSSA over usb to write the correct firmware. Usually sudo apt etc will get it done, but things get a bit messy if one board or another is running a pre-release beta or RC. But once in sync again it should stay in sync.
@dino1 It depends what type it is NPN or PNP.
Then you have to check the Voltage of the sensor. Usualy they are 6 to 24 volts.
So for NPN you wire GND and Signal to Duet's probe conector and VIN to 24 Volt on duet.
For PNP you add some resistors as per wiki