@jay_s_uk

Perfect, thanks - will give it a try 🙂

I looked through all the documentation but must have missed that nugget of a link you posted

@dc42 said in DUET 2 WIFI + EXPANSION BREAKOUT BOARD + AC SERVO DRIVER:

ENA+/ENA- is the Enable signal. Many external drivers (especially servo drivers) don't need it.

ok thanks.

This issue was resolved for those who experience a similar issue... I had my hotend heater mapped to a toolboard using pt100 sensors on the mainboard. Some rewiring and swapping pins around was in play.

@Kediil said in Sudden perma hotend heater fault?:

The casing on the heater spot on the board wiggles,

Can you post a video of what you mean by this?

I am using a Duet3 board with a Raspberry Pi4 in SBC configuration and a PanelDue, so yeah -- that's working (-:

@dc42 Thank you so much for your correction on my misinterpretation downloaded from the GitHub site. Everything works fine with the display after the correct Firmware installation. I should have looked at the Duet Documentation on the installation of the new announced version. In "Installing and Updating PanelDue Firmware" by IanA-S, the table recommending the correct firmware for the integrated version is compact and concise. 😇 👍

Yes they are straight from the tool distribution board to the toolboards

@T3P3Tony Got it, thank you! I'll make sure it's a schottky diode.

bedlevel_nozzle_0.4_200x200-0.3-0.8.stl

I'd suggest printing a test pattern like this and adjusting the baby stepping to find out exactly how much to change it.

But yeah, 0.2 sounds like a reasonable amount to start with.

@Sculpt-Fabricator said in Fan output to control relay:

Will I be able to put
"M106 P3 S0" in the slicer end of print, to turn the relay off, or do I need to add something he else to the Config G?

Yes, that will work - and you can test it in advance.

That said do you need to use a fan output. If you use a heater output to control the relay (assuming your VIN voltages are compatible with the relay) then you get to have temperature control of the heated bed! If course if you upgrade to 3.1.1 and then map the fan pin to be a heater if you need to.

@Leav said in Transmit sensor information over digital communication:

Interesting, didn't know this existed! is CAN not supported on Duet2-wifi? I seem to see some references to CAN in the pinout table, but I'll admit it's not 100% clear to me....

CAN is not an option for Duet 2, you need to be running either a Duet 3 Mainboard 6HC or (when it is released) a Duet 3 Mini 5+.

@Phaedrux said in Wiring problem:

Just throwing this out there, but why not get an actual 24v PSU at the wattage you require? There are Meanwell units with PS_on functionality as well.

How dare you, that sounds far too much like common sense to me 😀

I'll have to toy around with it more later. I actually found out today I had a faulty PSU causing most of my headaches. On any load change it was causing my lighting to flicker a little. It was not enough to cause printing issues but it was noticable in the lighting and the main reason I was trying to get hardware PWM working (so I could do higher PWM frequencies and avoid the communication from klipper). But now that I got hardware PWM on the lights and the issue persisted, I realized it could be a bad PSU. I finally tried a different PSU and everything is perfect. Working on RMA now.

Either way, I appreciate all the info and quick responses as always.

@BoA said in Can RRF@Duet3 use DC_OK signal from PSU?:

I have a power supply that provides DC_OK signal and I would like to use it instead of low voltage detection to pause the print.

This is not yet supported, but is on the list for implementation soon.

I want to use this output for an Arduino pro mini.
I already connected the fan out to the Arduino, but the Arduino does not recognize the input, it does not matter if I use analog in or pulse in (PWM).
Also it wont recognize the input as a normal bool in.

That is the reason why I want to use a GPIO.

Thanks a lot again, should had this idea by my own 😉 but it is working now, so I can do the next steps.

What board are you using?
What is your fan configuration in config.g?
Does the fan work in the always on fan port?
Do you see any damage to the fan mosfets? Is the fan fuse intact?

Well I could only find two kits.

The first was the original UtilMaker with the wooden frame but it was around a $1000.

The second was a newer Chinese design using the kinds of parts I'm used to (aluminum extrusions, printed plastic pieces, etc). With shipping it was around $500.

I went with the more familiar and cheaper kit.

We shall see.

Thanks.

Frederick

@Phaedrux said in 2-wire Mechanical N/O endstop switches:

@kroybal said in 2-wire Mechanical N/O endstop switches:

M574 Z1 S0 P"io4.in" ;Z-Min switch active-low M574 Z1 S0 P"io5.in" ;Z-Min switch active-low

This should be formatted as M574 Z2 S1 P"io4.in+io5.in"

Plus inverting with ! if necessary.

This would get you the releveling with dual endstops.