can I desolder the driver and solder a new one on?

That would be the ideal - Ethernet where there is a fixed installation and Wi-fi elsewhere.

That said, the latest firmware iterations have had a lot more stable connections so looking forwards to the best of both worlds!

That's kind of missing the point, isn't? Buying an expensive temperature sensor just to lower the accuracy with a wrong resistor?

I'm trying to rewrite the MAX38165 module in the firmware based on the example I linked above, but to be perfectly honest I have no idea what I'm doing. My C++ knowledge ends on simple console games and I have zero experience coding for ARM. What I'm having trouble with is getting the ohm reading. In the GetTemperature method you have an adcVal variable. How do I convert this value to ohms? What I tried is mostly copy-pasting from the example like so:

[[c++]] uint32_t dummy; uint16_t adcVal = (rawVal >> 1) & 0x7FFF; dummy = (uint32_t)(adcVal << 1) * 100 * (uint32_t)430; // 430 is the Rref value, hardcoded for now dummy >>= 16; uint16_t ohmx100 = (uint16_t)(dummy & 0xFFFF);

But I must be doing something wrong because I'm getting no reading (2000 celsius). I also don't know how to debug stuff so I'm going through this blindfolded, not knowing what values those variables have.

Hi DC42

Learn something new
The bed can only move 205 mm in Y direction after homing, but all the way when it is not
The bed is 300x300 mm plus distance from homing to bed

Best Regards
Bo

Indeed beneath timelapse everything else is working 😉

WebCam-Integration and also (in my case) direct Upload of GCodes from Simplify3D.

I've used Octoprint and Repetier-Server before too, but with my DuetWifi/DuetX5 and also my Radds (with an additional ESP286) i'm using nothing else as the WebInterface.

For the WebCam i'm using a Raspberry Pi 3 with MotionEyeOS, where i always save the Video-Stream and inside the WebIf i'm using the live-video Feed.

Cheers
MoS-tekknix

I've had the occasional problem with this also, but for me, I put them mostly on the duet misbehaving, or me,as it only seemed to happen when I turned on the machine, and a clean power cycle cleaned it up. I really haven't had an issue since I finished up my wiring, and I've never seen it fault through multiple prints.

You have both a G30 bed probing command and a G1 S1 command in your Z homing file. I suggest you delete all of these lines from the start:

; Lift Z relatively to current position
G91
G1 Z5 F19000

; Back to absolute positioning
G90

; Go to first bed probe point and home the Z axis
G1 X15 Y15 F9000
G30

so that it starts with G91 followed by the G1 S1 Z200 command.

When you have Z homing working by itself, put the same code in the Z homing section of homeall.h.

HTH David

See "Using external drivers" on the wiki.

Yeah, youre right, I dont know what I wanted the model cooling fan temp controlled.

Any ideas on the cause of how the FAN0 slot got blown up?

@dc42:

Yes you can just connect red and black as normal and leave the other 2 wires unconnected. No need for a flyback diode because these fans are always brushless - and all production Duet Ethernets have flyback diodes built-in anyway.

Brill !. That's what I like - nice and simple.

I think for clarification, can you explain what you did to make it work? thx

I know, I know…jajaja... its the default coming with duet, only a couple of month ago buyed, I must to upgrade all the combo.

Thanks David, Thanks MoS.

Problem solved. Great result.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9oEoHHZpMfITzZlV3VwMHd3dXc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9oEoHHZpMfIc1dkc3JlSE5CajA

Thanks, I've updated the wiki to mention that you need firmware 1.19.

I use 2 twisted pairs of a 8-pairs shielded cable in a 4-wire connection. No issues whatsoever. Cable is around 100cm long.

Hi everyone, thank you for your comments, I found the problem, I just replaced the GND cable of the Due2x.

If another motor worked then it is almost surely not a driver fault. As David said it could be intermittent crimp connections so check them twice before using a new motor. After all it could be just a bad quality motor.

They will be much better on 24V than on 12V, but you may still be unable to reach high speeds. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Choosing_stepper_motors#How_to_work_out_the_power_supply_voltage_you_need.

Thanks!

Thanks, I'll take a closer look when we are back from TCT.

Would the pull-up resistors on the fully populated RAMPS1.4 board be a problem here?