My part cooling fan cable simply had a cable rupture.
The behaviour was strange anyway, the cable had contact and let the fan work on the idle and pause positions, but not in the middle of the bed (where the prints happen). A little bend of the cable strain and the part cooling fan worked again. Changed the cable with a spare one, works like a charm!
Thank you if you already spend time to my problem.
This demonstrates well why absolute extruder coordinates should not be used in 3D printing. This problem (and others that are often reported) would not have happened if relative extruder coordinates were standard.
@jadonm I am also retrofitting a 3D systems machine, Mine is a CubePro single extruder. I also am a hardware guy, the Gcode thing is a little hard to get your head around. I did a lot of modifications to my machine. first was i changed it from a single Z motor, to 2 motors and screws, putting them right next to the Z linear bearings, I was having some issues with the platform binding, and the screws are finer pitch so should provide better z resolution. i also removed the ball bearings and put PBC linear, FMT12 frelon lined bushings in the bearing housings, they are a direct swap out. then i removed the 2 y axis motors, and put one larger dual shaft motor on the right side, with a driveshaft that goes to the left side, where the 2nd motor was, i made a bearing block that bolts up where the 2nd motor was. this way both belts are coupled together and no chance of skipped steps or getting the carriage out of square. i also changed to the FTM12 bushings in all the bearing blocks, also put larger and higher resolution (.9 deg )motors on the X and Y ( now 2 motors, not 3) the extruder carriage i started from scratch, Just got a new model Bondtech Dual BMG and 2 mosquito hot ends, machined new bearing slides, brackets, fans and bracket for the cable chain. this is what it looks like: I also moved all the electronics from inside bottom to outside rear, put a carbon fiber panel where the clear rear panel was, and made a couple acrylic baffels and cooling fans on the back. and a lot of carbon fiber stiffening plates through out. and last was the heated bed, i made new parts, 1000 watt silicone heater, garolite, and a aluminum heat plate with imbedded magnets.
To verify that my prints actually use bed compensation I stick an adhesive tape 'flag' to the top of the Z screw and verify that it turns slightly during x/y movements of the print.
Your bed looks very flat and level but you can play with the screws to have larger error and make the Z flag movements more visible.
@dc42 said in current settings for maestro:
The increment on the Maestro is 50mA. 480mA will get rounded down to 450mA, it's only values that are very close to 500mA that will get rounded up to 500.
Thenk you very much for the information. We've been trying to nail down some more solid documentation for our new printers so its good to have it here nice and concise.
The first correction is always zero. "up" and "down" refer to the direction in which you need to move the bed by adjusting the screws. The figures given are the height errors, so -0.35mm is where the bed is compared to where it needs to be.
@dawgheart said in Bed and Hotend heating don't work:
Does anyone have an M307 H1 A### C### D### B0 parameter already configures for Dyze 500C hotend? I am really struggling to get mine to auto tune.
What happens when you try to auto tune it?
Best I can tell by printing various test objects, changing settings, trying S4, S6, S7, S8, and even S9 I do have geometrical error(s). Rotating the arms and effector does not change the results so I am relatively sure arm length and effector geometry is symmetric. At one early point I tried entering slightly different arm lengths (less than 0.5mm different) and got some really weird thing happening with auto calibrate where Z dropped during the first probe between the 2 probes (A5 S0.02) then scraping the bed moving to the second point and had to abort. I tried it a couple of times thinking my piezo system had a malfunction but as soon as I took the additional L values out it worked again. I am using 3.0beta5+4 so there might be something wonky when putting in different arm lengths.
I ve test the super vulcano modification on m8 and it work now fine! Maybe david take a lokk about! You have t9 bore up the heat block on a m8 diameter and screw the nozzle (short nozzle from the v6) in the m8 screw! So its stable and work fine!
Which colour is T0, and which is T1?
Is the X axis left-right or up-down in your photo?
Are you certain that position X255 is reachable on your printer?
Is the printer Cartesian, CoreXY, Delta, or something else?
Do you have a Bowden tube from each input of the splitter to an extruder drive fixed to the printer frame, or some arrangement involving moving extruders?
You could try reducing the maximum XY speeds in the M203 command in config.g or the XY accelerations in M201, in case you are getting missed steps when the nozzle goes to/from the cleaning area.
@npm1 said in Marlin to Reprap Speeds:
#define DEFAULT_XJERK 7.5
#define DEFAULT_YJERK 7.5
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.2
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 0.10
Marlin uses mm/sec for jerk, RRF uses mm/min for all speeds. So multiply the Marlin jerk values by 60 to get the M566 parameters for RRF. That gives:
M566 X450 Y450 Z12 E6
That E jerk value is very low and won't play nicely with pressure advance.
Dredging this up as I would also like to see at least an option to include M81 in the event of a heater fault at idle and judging my the other threads I ran across searching many would. I'm one that likes redundancy to my redundancy. I'm running what most would consider overkill with my printer that has a 120V bed. 2 SSR's and a relay activated by PS_ON for the bed, and the hot end heater also through a relay activated by PS_ON.
Edit: Forgot to mention I do also have a one time thermal fuse in the bed heater.
@deckingman said in No manual extrusion here (hot nor cold)??:
@jacksat Have you selected a tool before you attempt to extrude? If not, just enter T0 from the console, then try.
Yes ,i did but same result.
But i think it is solved now,need to do more testing but too F-ing hot in the shop where the printer lives.
I did a reinstall of the firmware and then i deselect and select the tool again and now both extruders work when i push extrude 10mm.
Don't know if the reinstall fixed it or deselect and then select the tool again did.
Thanks for thinking along .