I don't see any M915 commands in any of the files you have posted. Have you tuned the M915 stall detection threshold? https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Stall_detection_and_sensorless_homing#Section_Configuring_sensorless_homing
@codiac2600 said in ELI5 How to correctly set up my probe.:
So what did I get for that?? Nozzle would immediately crash into the bed gouging everything.
When you did what?
Also WHY doesn't duet have a confirmation of first layer settings?
Please explain what you mean by "a confirmation of first layer settings".
I am using direct contact between the nozzle on an aluminum build plate as my z probe (electrically closed loop). As the nozzle comes down, some plastic is being expelled out of the nozzle and as it touches the bed underneath, it cools down instantly. The nozzle needs to push through and remelt the cooled plastic in order to create contact with the bed. By issuing a G30 that could move horizontally as well as vertically, I expect that the cold extrusion would clear out to the side as the nozzle approach, thus preventing the associated bed distortion.
Seems like most of you have a very high pressure advance. I run a Zesty Nimble on a Hypercube Evolution with a 0.6 mm E3D Volcano hotend. Sweet spot seems to be somewhere around 0.01-0.03 depending on how flexible the filament is.
I usually run 2 mm retraction at 40 mm/s, seems to work good for the Volcano.
I created this script to generate test files for pressure advance calibration if you would like to try:
@andy-cohen said in BLTouch Self-Triggering during multipoint probing:
Too bad the mesh compensation turned out to be such a total waste of time. It works better just to tweak the leveling knobs and just chuck the unnecessary complexity.
Have to agree, I am thinking of getting rid of the BL Touch and going back to Mesh Bed Levelling and tweaking on the skirt.
For what it's worth the E3D tool changer uses stall detection and it's CoreXY and they claim it's reliable enough in their testing. So it can be done, though I personally don't think it's the best way to go.
Can you post your full config file?
Are you dropping the motor currents for homing?
The speed needs to be fast enough to trigger the stall. If it's too slow it won't register.
Which thermistor placement are you using for the PID tune?
Personally, I think the heater loop control should be as close to the heating element as possible. Then adjust your set temperature and warmup time needed to get the bed surface where it needs to be.
That looks like Amazon Basics Black PLA. I print that at 210-220c. So that checks out.
Keep in mind that you're printing a tiny cube on a very hot bed with a very hot nozzle dumping molten filament. It's going to look melty. Your print speed isn't very fast either.
Print something larger like a benchy. Try 50mm/s for walls, infill, and top/bottom solid infill. Increasing the print speed in the slicer will probably increase quality in this case. You may want to try 0.2 layer height as well. I'm not sure what the Z axis full steps are for the Ender 5, but on the Ender 3 it has a 0.04 mm full step resolution, so only multiples of 0.04 are full step layer heights. 0.04, 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. You're using 0.15 layer height which is a tad off from that. You can see some layer banding in your photos that could be a result of that.
If you want to fine tune your jerk and acceleration settings you can disable the acceleration and jerk control in Cura and then use the firmware values so you can change them during a print to see their effect. You can modify them at any time during a print by sending the gcode command in the console. M566 X1200 Y1200 would boost the jerk to 20mm/s for example.
Your current firmware values are on the conservative side, so the print quality should be quite good, but a little slow. Once you figure out the best jerk/accel values for each move type you can then use those values in Cura to fine tune the print moves. Slower and smoother for external surfaces, and faster for infills.
The perfect values are going to depend on your printer mechanics and resonances. Slower isn't always smoother. For instance, on my printer, 40mm/s causes a resonance that sounds pretty bad. Upping to 50mm/s and the sound disappears and movement is very smooth.
For jerk, I can get up to about 30mm/s before it starts to thunk and sound rough on direction changes. At around 8mm/s movement becomes too halted and slow downs at corners are too great. 15-20mm/s ends up being the smoothest.
For acceleration 500mm/s^2 is good for eliminating ringing on the outer walls but is too slow for other moves. 1000-2000 for infill moves is much better.
Top layer seems over extruded, but the overall appearance looks good. The layers in the bias lighting shot look rough, but that's always going to be a tricky thing to fix. Good luck with the z axis update.
@siblues said in Horrible print results.Help needed?:
I can do the retraction test but the temp tower I can not figure out how to adjust the temps in Cura to work.I am new to all of this so I am still trying to learn even the basic stuff at the moment.
I just want to address this one - The temp towers in Cura are a bit tricky but REALLY worth the effort. What you have to do is this:
Go to Thingiverse and open the Customizer on the model @Veti linked. Create your model (suggestions below). Save the model (Publish) don't make it public unless you want to.
Load the model into Cura, setup the settings you want with the Default Temp set to the HOTTEST you'll go (say 220° for PLA). Be sure the two Initial temps MATCHES the default temp. Final temp should be the lowest the tower will be doing.
Slice the model and go to Preview. Slide the layers slider all the way down then go up until it reaches the first temp switch point, Write down the layer number. Keep going up, writing the layer numbers at each switch point.
Now go to the top menu choose Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code. Then Add a Script.
What you want is ChangeAtZ. It will have Trigger - Change that to LAYER No. and put the first layer change you wrote down (say 35). Go down and Check the box Change Extruder 1 Temp and put the first step DOWN that you need (like 215° if it's changing by 5° increments). Leave the rest of the settings alone.
Add a Script again and repeat step 4 for the next change point you noted (say layer 70) and change temp down to 210°. Repeat until the you have all the changes down to say 180°.
SLICE AGAIN then save your G-Code. ALSO go to the File -> Save and save it as a Cura project (see below)
NOTE WELL: CURA REMEMBERS THOSE SETTINGS EVEN IF YOU CLOSE THE PROGRAM!!!!
YOU NEED TO REMEMBER TO GO INTO IT AGAIN AND REMOVE THE CHANGEATZ SCRIPTS OR YOU'LL GO NUTS WONDERING WHY YOUR FUTURE PRINTS GO SCREWY ON YOU!!!!!
Ask me how I know ... It's gotten me more than once, just last week it got me again, I was going CRAZY at a model not printing right and found Cura was dropping the temp every 35 layers because i forgot I did a Temp Tower! I felt SO stupid.
One way to avoid all this work next time (and there WILL be a next time) is to SAVE the print, not just as a G-Code, but as a Cura PROJECT. Then you go in immediately and delete the ChangeAtZ commands while you remember it.
Temp towers will really help you in dialing in your temps, which appears to be what you're battling.
I run one every time I get a new type of filament. Write the settings on the reel. Some say they do it for every reel as it changes a bit, but that's nuts for most good filament. The change will be minor.
However, I find COLOR matters! Black eSun PLA will not print the same temps as Aqua eSun PLA. Do a tower for each type of filament, it's worth the work.
The tower I like is the same one @Veti linked. You use the Customizer to create the exact range you need.
Generally I start my tests at 10° over the top temp recommended by the filament maker and take it down to 5° under (don't go too low you'll start grinding in the extruder), go down 5° steps. Be sure to slice at the speed you expect to use for real prints.
Once you get the temp basic range that's best for your machine you can try another tower with 2 degree steps to really get the best spot (if you're OCD like me ... LOL!)
Just File -> Open the project file (.3mf) in Cura and change the starting temp & temps for each step, then re-slice. (The numbers will be wrong on the print, but just use your head, easier than redoing the Thingiverse tower). I assume you can subtract by twos ...
It's a bit of a pain, but once you have done a few you'll have a better handle on what temp you should actually use for that brand & type of filament. Just don't forget to remove those changeatZ commands!
Have fun! You may want to print this as a guide as you go. Like most things, 1st time is the hardest.
BTW, a general tip - stop trying to go fast. Seriously.
This is a hobby that requires patience. If you slice at 70mm/s then slice at 40mm/s you'll find it's not that different, but the quality sure will be. Speed kills in this hobby. Printing twice because you pushed the speed is dumb, be patient, you'll get much better results. As you get better and you dial in the machine you can sneak up but in general, slow and steady saves the print.