Lowered some of my settings to the following:
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E2000
M203 X9000 Y9000 Z300 E6000
M566 X600 Y600 Z50 E600
Ended up with 0.6 Pressure Advance, the settings above, print speed 60mm/s with outlines and perimeters set to 60% and 70% of that. Retraction had 0.05mm of Extra Restart Distance in Simplify3D and with those settings, everything looked pretty good.
@morf said in Ringing/echo after migration to duet3d, rootcause lookup:
M350 X128 Y128 Z128 E32 I0 ; NO interpolation
M92 X640 Y640 Z640 E812 ; Set steps per mm
Using XYZ microstepping of 128 may lead to processor overload (although probably only in faster travel moves), so I suggest you reduce it to either 16 with interpolation, 32 or possibly 64. Your extruder microstepping and steps/mm look good.
I just swapped out a noisy X motor after all the fixes didn't work, still quiet compared to a MKS board but louder than even my dual Y axis.
It's now a 3mH vs the 5 that was in there.
Steppers make a huge difference!
I was using a backpack blower on the stock hotend which was too high on the block. Someone made a modified one for the Volcano hotend and that worked perfectly, I have since switched to a MK10 hotend and now use a Thorped turbine cooler that works well, however because I had to mirror the part, I couldn't use the stock fan mounting position, I Macgyvered it with some blue tack- hey, 100 hours later and it's still firmly attached.
One day I will design my own, but my cad skills are still pretty limited.
I may have figured it out. M584 was previously below all the other Drive info. I moved it to below the last M569, and fixed my steps/mm for Z, and all looks fine now. But I'll keep testing to confirm. Thanks for your help! Really appreciate your quick responses!
BTW FW: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
Best Regards, Bill
@wwmotorsports said in Help with strange diagonal banding on Ultibots D300VS+ ?!:
Thank you! I've bookmarked this post and hope to come back to it soon. Swapping the wheels for rails is something I'd like to eventually do to my D300VS+, but I was never really sure how to go about it. Your very helpful guide has given me ... A Clue.
Those symptoms suggest that the delta radius isn't set correctly, either because you didn't run auto calibration successfully, or you didn't save the results. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#Section_Saving_the_calibration_results.
@fcwilt As of now I still need the pressure advance to maintain a good print. However over the holidays I have been working on redesigning some components and implementing a 40mm noctua fan for my heat sink. once I have it all thrown together I'll try no pressure advance and see where that lands me.
Appears it has fixed it, done a few prints, currently have a deceivingly long print wrapping up- only 144gr but takes up the entire bed, 23hrs in 1.5 to go and no LaErrors.
Thanks @dc42 .
looking waaaaaay better than my 1.4 MKS, it had issues with this print as it is a retraction and geometry nightmare- steppers and drivers are barely warm, however I did install heat sinks just because I had them.
Now to build in a web-cam and filiment runout switch, possibly a optical bed level sensor, but I'm new to configuring such a setup, I have a Anycubic delta with a microswitch probe, it works, but that stupid machine will have a stroke and either slam into the bed or print into the air randomly after reboots and require the whole process again.
Using 1.8deg motors, at x16 microstepping the steps/mm will be 80 if you use 20-tooth pulleys or 100 if you use 16-tooth pulleys. Dividing by 16 this gives the full steps/mm as 5 using 20-tooth or 6.25 using 16-tooth. So if you are looking to use full step amounts, good layer heights are multiples of 0.2mm and 0.16 mm respectively. If your motors are 0.9deg then these values are halved.
I use 16-tooth pulleys and 0.9deg motors, so in theory multiples of 0.08mm should work best. But I normally use 0.2mm layer height and I haven't noticed a problem.
What extruder motor and microstepping settings are you using? Have you checked that the extruder extrudes the correct amount? 837 steps/mm is about right for a 0.9deg motor using x16 microstepping. If your motor is 1.8deg then you need to halve the steps/mm.
@phaedrux said in Some Z-offset error after bed replacement.:
@janjoh What issue are you still having? It sounded like you were able to get a proper z probe trigger height measurement.
Well, as i said. The guide says to enter the offset as a negative value, and that the hegith is usually 0 to 1mm . But i am getting a negative value on my readings. Does that mean i should put in a POSITIVE trigger value in my G31?
Because if i enter -0.176 in G31, and reset my machine, I end up back where the head will be at about 0.2mm over the bed when the machine reads Z0
Edit: Crap.. Starting to regret the "New" WebControl. Mesh compensation didnt disable propery. I think I've got it now.. lesseeeee
@phaedrux It turns out the ridges on straight segments as visible at the blue line were caused by improperly assembled axis. Some ball bearings were misaligned and I also used a bad carbon fibre rod. Needless to say, the bearings rubbed through the epoxy coatings of the rods and were running on the fibers, which caused the whole thing to vibrate. They were hollow rods, so with some pressure and higher speeds the problem "masked" itself.
Straight segments are now good. The slight ringing on the round segment as in the left print in the pic above is still there though and I'm still not sure why.
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