@veti @dc42 @deckingman
Thank you all for your input and help! Here is my conclusion for anyone else finding this thread and needing an answer:
The following settings using veti's method work:
M305 P0 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
M305 P1 T97700 B4619 C9.743561e-8 R2200
The following settings using dc42's numbers also work:
M305 P0 T98801 B4185 R2200
M305 P1 T98801 B4185 R2200
I'm guessing that anyone using run of the mill thermistors from China (purchased on ebay or aliexpress, etc) with a Duet Maestro board will find these settings to be functional. I notice little difference between the settings from dc42 and the ones from veti. They vary from each other by only about 2°C at the high end (ABS printing temperature), and they completely agreee/match at room temperature. I'm going to go with dc42's numbers as he explained he was correcting for a rounding error, so potentially more accuracy there. All of this is assuming that the original numbers from the Marlin table were accurate.
Disclaimer: I'm measuring the bed temperature using an IR thermometer which gives varying readings +/- 1.5°C. The accuracy of the Thermometer is also questionable (+/- 2.5°C?). I have no way of accurately measuring the temperature of the hotend. To gauge this I'm manually forcing ABS Filament through the nozzle. While I haven't gotten my fingers calibrated recently, I am comparing the feel of this to the same filament going through my other printer which is properly calibrated for temperatures, and has the same size nozzle. Given these constraints, my conclusions are more of an art than a science.
I don't think this is a Duet problem, it's the drive itself going to sleep.
What kind of drive is it? Some drive manufacturers have a utility program or procedure to flip off the sleep mode built into most drives these days, it's a power saving feature. Sadly, not all drive makers have made it possible to bypass the sleep mode.
Jump on the Tech support forum for the drive maker, someone there has surely asked this question.
Note that often third party companies like LaCie will make a drive using someone else's drive like Western Digital.
@Phaedrux - Thanks for the quick reply! The R value was put in originally by RRF Config Tool, it's a Maestro so it has a 2200Ω resistor onboard (unlike the other Duets which have 4700Ω), so I just left it in when I changed the line for the PT1000.
Extenders - used the original extensions.
Re-run at lower - well, I intend to do a lot of hotter stuff so I wanted it to be tuned a bit north of normal.
However - re-ran at 240° , To my amazement and delight the stupid damn thing straightened out, nearly flat now. Duh. Should have tried before posting (hindsight and all, LOL).
What threw me was the large temp difference I was observing / measuring. I understood the PID tune to adjust ramp up, overshoot and dwell, not change the total (or "top") temp. Am I misunderstanding this?
@dc42 - Thx, as always! Well, after re-tune it ended at M307 H1 A425.6 C235.0 D5.3 S1.00 V12.2 B0
Completely different C & D values, with D way up . Smooth as silk now. Who knows what evil was at work I think sometimes these machines screw with us just for fun (insert machiney chuckle).
Thanks guys! Running it now and all appears well (well, minor fan issue but separate post going up)
@nicolab28 said in First T0 in gcode, does not work:
The problem with the T-1 is that if there is a filament loaded at the beginning of the print, it will unload it.
You can use T-1 P0 to deselect the tool without running the tool change files, if you don't need any part of the free file run.
There is a method / trick for heating the hotend without selecting a tool?
Use T0 P0 to select tool 0 without running any tool change files, then you can heat it.
When you start the print the nozzle height should be at the height of the first layer which is typically about 0.2-0.3mm depending on your slicer settings.
The print should not start with the nozzle touching the bed.
Your probe offset should be set so that when z=0 the nozzle just touches the bed.
I will check the wiring and I am using a E3D cartridge style thermistor.I checked the wiring and even tried moving the wires closer to the cartridge body while the machine was printing but I could not reproduce the problem.
@dc42 said in end.g is possible?:
I'll review the M0/M1 code before the next beta and update the documentation. The intended behaviour is:
Wait for all moves to complete.
Close the SD print file and change the printer status to Idle.
If M0 was received while the printer was paused, execute cancel.g if it exists, else stop.g.
If M0 was received while the printer was not paused, execute stop.g.
If M1 was received, execute sleep.g.
If the appropriate macro file is not found, take default action, which is to turn all heaters off. Motors are left on (but as always, if they are all idle for the idle timeout period then the motor currents will be reduced to the idle percentage).
I would say this seems to be the case. I use M0 to call stop.g. I haven't tested the other behaviours in quite some time though.
Rn Action to take on detecting a stall from any of these drivers: 0 = no action (default), 1 = just log it, 2 = pause print, 3 = pause print, execute /sys/rehome.g, and resume print
So the default action is to do nothing when a stall is detected. But stall-detection endstops will still work. So if you only use stall detection for endstops, you do not need two different sets of stall settings.
If your main goal is to print miniatures, check out https://3dprintedtabletop.com -- they have a lot of recommendations specifically for that.
For the 0.2mm nozzle, I would not print faster than a quarter of the 0.4mm nozzle due to the much larger ratio of incoming filament to nozzle opening.
in my mgs I was referring to E jerk, I use E400 with pa enabled and it is skipping steps but not in an extreme way, if I disable it no skipping steps. I normally use E1000 a E1500 without pa and working well but with pa I get extreme step skipping
my Xy Jerk are tuned to have almost no ringing "X900 Y900" I can go to 1200 but then very small ringing start appearing .
Three vertical shells, three top and bottom. Base layer accepted as not too accurate. Bed temp 50. Extrusion accurate for 100mm at lowest rate DWC would dish out and volumetric extrusion set by vernier caliper 90 degree opposed for diameter. Extrusion multiplier about 0.93 and temp at 180.
@doctrucker said in 3P Bed leveling script?:
If you're talking about the physical bed levelling process: When you get it running remember that one cycle may not get it perfect. On the core xy I used to run I needed to run it three times in order for it to converge on the perfect solution.
Thanks, I have that covered thanks. I might sound like a noob but it is just RRF I can wrap my head around as I need to figure out how to get the features I am used to having as stock
@tom_lauerman I'm using my phone right now so it's difficult to cut and paste links. There is a sticky at the top of each category that gives guidance for creating new topics which includes how to mark a post as solved. Another way is simply to edit your first post and add the word "Solved" to the title.
It just makes life a little easier for those who help others if there are a few less topics to read through.
I think it would be good to cancel the print if G29 or G32 fails, since they're important for some setups. Maybe any code that involves homing shouldn't be allowed to continue printing if it fails, but I'm not sure if that would be good for everyone. If G29 and G32 cancelled an SD print upon failure, i think it would be a good stopgap before conditional gcode comes.
I like the idea of a parameter to change the behavior too, but conditional gcode is probably a better solution anyway and if it's a lot of work it probably won't be worth it.
It could be that something could also be done to retry G32 in a different way after a failure of a certain type. For instance if the probe was already triggered on one corner, then move that side up by a couple mm and retry, but that could be done with conditional gcode probably. Also it might be a bit dangerous to do that since the machine could possibly rip itself apart, but w/e.
@resam said in Wrong gcode to finish a print?:
G91 only affects the X/Y/Z axis.
You want M83: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M83_Set_extruder_to_relative_mode
(facepalm) that makes things much more clear. Thanks for the assist. Bookmarking that page full of goodness.