Topics created by Phaedrux

Solved!

It turns out the config gen tool creates a homeall.g file with a series of G1 commands instead of a simple G30. When I converted it to use G30, I also left a "G92 Z0" command behind thinking it was correct. It is not when the G30 is used to home the axis. It caused a Z offset that resulted in following G29 and G32 commands to fail on probing.

I am not sure if this is a similar issue or not. Unfortunately I can no longer edit the references to it in my post.

My updated homeall.g now looks like this.
[0_1609398857654_homeall.g](Uploading 100%)

FYI, my M115...
FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.1.1 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.0 or 1.01 + DueX5 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-05-19b2

ABear

insane, i just followed his blog/tutorial last night and am reading this today!

RIP good man

@mh said in Turn your printer into a Juke Box.:

Hmm... The PanelDue 3.0 buzzer seems to be a DC version that has a built-in frequency generator and a little "+" on the housing indicating its polarity?
Was that different in earlier versions?

This post might better belong as a new thread in the paneldue forum for better visibility.

Depends on your budget, but if a Bugati Byron is above your limit, maybe a Voron V0 kit?

note: the the h parameter is for tmc5160 only not for tmc2224

@mrehorstdmd said in E3D Hermes:

This new thing looks great, but it looks like the heat break just screws into the heatsink, the same as the V6. Did they do anything to secure it in the heatsink?

I've had the heat break come loose from the V6 hot-end many times during prints, screwing up the print quality. There is no way to securely mount the heatbreak in the heatsink- there's nothing to grab with a wrench on either the heatsink or the heatbreak, and no set screws. You can't twist it in by grabbing the heater block because the throat of the heat break is so thin it will break.

This. I have raged so hard about this many times before. It would have been the easiest thing in the world for them to add a set screw in the heatsink that tightens agaínst the upper part of the heatbreak that has no threads on it.
This is what i have done in the new extruder that i built, and it works like a charm.
But in general the whole e3d design is flawed with the unsupported heatbreak.

@milangupta1 said in Unstable temps all of the sudden. PT100:

Any ideas on where I should start ?

Check the cartridge for any damage.
Check the wiring for any breaks.
Move the print head around and see if you can trigger it with movement.
Try the other PT100 port on the daughter board.

@phaedrux Fascinating stuff - thanks for sharing.👍

@bberger Awesome!!

I would prefer a real time thing, probably something that could slow down the step clock if the filament extrusion is getting a bit behind.

@doctrucker said in Finally some insight into pressure inside the hotend.:

With regards to retract not relieving all the pressure that would be logical.......................

Hi Wes,

Yes that's my belief too based on the test work that I've conducted - I think we are in agreement.

In the absence of any specification about what F0 is supposed to mean in a G1 command, I think RRF is behaving entirely reasonably, and Chroma should be fixed.

This will be easier to achieve when implementation of the object model is complete. We're planning on using it to support user-definable fields in DWC, although the details have yet to be designed.

@dc42 said in Secure your printers before it's too late.: (bolding mine):

@rcarlyle, your suggestion could certainly be implemented. The question is, would it provide enough additional security to be worthwhile. Let's see what others think.

Additional security, such as network segment control via VPN or reverse proxy or similar, will always be needed no matter what security features are added to Duet/RepRap. Several people seem to be saying things that fit with this broad idea... layered security, don't put it directly on the Internet, etc.

Therefore, I'd like the see the number of hours devoted to adding security features to Duet/RepRap be relatively small.

I fixed it!! It took a better part of the day to tear it down and build it back up but at least now I can print without being ashamed of the quality.

1_1536090804758_IMG_4390.JPG
0_1536090804758_IMG_0774.JPG
Left is before, right is after. Same gcode.

I did a complete realignment of the bearing blocks and bed mounts to make sure they were lined up. I also tightened up the V wheel tensioners on all 4 corners and ensured that the bed raised and lowered smoothly and evenly by hand. Plus I replaced the 40T lead screw and drive pulleys with new ones from OpenBuilds. This time using a 20T drive pulley giving me a 2:1 gear ratio. The belt was also replaced. The cheap toothless flanged idler pulleys on the belt tensioner were replaced with flanged 605 bearings which ran much smoother and didn't rub the belt like the old idler did.

I don't know if it was just one or all of those things, but the banding is completely gone. I suspect that the biggest issue was the pulleys. There was visible wobble and movement with the old ones. That's all gone now. It's hard to put a finger on it, but visually the quality of the belt movement just looks better than before.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.