No worries 🙂

Yeah I might get a sheet just to try with the piezo sensor, but so far I'm sticking with printbite.

Which interestingly although its fairly tough a 250 deg C nozzle driven hard into it during a headcrash, which I had a few of during developing the piezo sensor, will leave a hole in it, I have about 3 or 4 holes, tried filling them with abs juice, which works but gets pulled out with a print.

Also I believe it is being removed from slic3r, it already has been in in the Prusa editions, as the hardware version works better.

A 0 byte file length sounds like the file was new!y created, perhaps to upload a new one or save some edits, but the rest of the upload failed.

I'll add a work item to make uploads create and write a temporary file, and only rename to the correct file name (after deleting the old one if it exists) when the upload is complete.

@saffi:

the Duet is definitely my go to board now for printer builds.

I'm with you there.

My long term goal is to install Diamond 5 color hotends - as part of that process I just added Duex5 boards to my printers.

I have another printer kit on order (larger non-delta) and I already have the Duet boards in house ready to go.

Great stuff.

Frederick

Just love a happy ending.

Frederick

Also you can adjust Z on the fly, it is called babystepping (a search on the forum will turn up results).

ok, partialy i have found the issue. in the article by deckingman there is a paragraph that refers to extruder numbering. i suggest to extend it by following

[[language]] slic3r on object -> settings it is offered to choose extruder from the "default" (that is prompted to be 0), "1", "2", "3" and "4". In fact, slic3r treats "default" as "1". Later in generated gcode this "default"="1" is treated as "T0". "2" is treated as "T1" etc.

another issue that i look into now - even for very simple things (circle) it generates 5 tool changes, that can be difficult with manual filament change.

And just as a footnote for the new guys (like me).

When I entered M143 H0 S140 via the DWC, all was good until I used the emergency stop or updated the firmware. Then I was back to the default 125 degC limit for the bed.

To make it permanent, you need to enter the line in the config file.

This may be obvious to some but not to others, so I thought I'd mention it.

I am running 1.18.1 but have not removed the card while it is on. I removed the card and scanned for errors on the PC and it was clean. I replaced the card and will test again and see if I have any issues. I am hoping it is just a flakey card.

thanks,
Brendin

Hi All,
Thanks for your replies. I took the carriages and packed them with lithium grease for bearings. I used sewing machine oil for the linear rails. The problem has been reduced. At least, I don't hear the weird sound. Now I am doing my autocalibration.

I will post the auto calibration results in a separate thread.

In short, lubricate both the rails and carriages even if they come from high-quality vendors. It helped a lot.

Regards,
Vasan

Got it in one. Thanks yet again dc42.

I've added the F parameter to the M42 command in 1.19beta7, which I intend to release tonight or tomorrow. Like the I parameter, it isn't remembered for M42 (unlike in M106).

DWC does indeed give you a window into the printer operation, however it lets you customise that window. There are some aspects that you would not want to store server side. For example, you might choose a fast polling rate when using a PC next to the printer, and a slower rate when using a mobile device.

I use m226

Just to finish this of by saying I ordered the pt100 daughter board (hopefully nothing is amiss with that system). I tried H7 but when I enabled it as my second tool numbered 99, in tool definitions the DWC was now displaying 7 tools of which 4 (h2-h5) showed 1970 deg C and 2 (h6 and H7) error with or without a thermistor attached, the two working ones are handily bed and h1. So thanks for the advice but yes it seems as though something is amiss with the adc system though thankfully not the heaters, motors or anything else.

@npm1:
If you can mount it, go with the piezo system from Precision Piezo (DJDemonD).
Till recently I had a FSR system under the bed and it was good to probe with the nozzle. But the piezo is better.

Might want to send him an email through the forum as his PM notifications seem to have problems.

https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=1569#p14784

Lol sounds nice. My printer is literally made from a recycled swingset into a prusa i3 style printer. usually it works perfectly fine and have had zero issues, until this week when it seems everything wanted to die all at once…

Here is a controller that works great but I think the Duet Wifi/Ethernet would be even better. G codes and description of what they do.

https://planet-cnc.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/CNCUSBController.pdf