@fma You are right, that's why I asked the initial question (we closed the loop, so to say :D)
A printer that tilts the bed to tram it is already a 5-axis machine (or more like a 7-axis machine, if you count all the axes of the printer). What's missing is a software, that allows for non-planar printing and is fire-and-forget like a regular slicer. Still a long way to go I guess...

@Karma said in Need your opinion on Stepper Motors:

....................... I am attempting to reduce as much weight as possible off each Axis. In doing so, I will be able to increase the acceleration setting of the X and Y axis, thus improve print quality and lower overall print time.

That's a common misconception which only applies to non-print moves. For the majority of moves which involve pushing molten filament through a small nozzle, the speed is governed by how fast you can accelerate the melt rate and extrude the filament. Even at modest accelerations, there is a lag between the carriage and the extruded filament which results in a pressure build up in the hot end before that translates into more filament being extruded from the nozzle. Pressure advance will help to compensate but only up to a point.
Ultimately print move accelerations are determined by the rate that the filament flowing through a tiny nozzle can be accelerated. So although lowering the mass might in theory allow you to use higher XY acceleration, you won't be able to make us of that acceleration unless the molten filament flow rate can keep up.
In a nutshell, carriage mass is not a limiting factor for print moves, so reducing it will only benefit the acceleration for non-print moves and thus have very little effect on reducing overall print time. Higher carriage acceleration will almost certainly not improve print quality due to the lag between the change in carriage velocity and the velocity of the filament coming out of the nozzle. The lower mass may also make "ringing" worse due to the reduced damping effect.

Very interesting. Moved to the 3D printing general chat area, btw.

@zapta well don't forget original reprap project that dr Adrian started was all about self replication, so the idea was to have a printer that can reproduce his parts and with few vitamines you can get in any hardware shop you reproduce it.

The repstraps were always there, I used my cnc with more accuracy than most of today's 3d printers and EMC (linuxCNC these days) and Wade's extruder back in the day but the focus was on the self replication, not necesary quality nor price... dr Adrian was looking at reprap printers as "organism" that mutates and expands. In the meantime offshoots from that project made repstraps available to the public for peanuts, great development and something I was always more interested than the "Self replication" part of the project itself.

I always remember the talk dr Adrian gave about organisms and "success". What's the most successful organism on the Earth? It's CORN!!!

I am thinking this may be the problem. I am using two z axis motors and the left side seems to drop a little. I orders some anti backlash nuts to see if that will help.

thanks,
Justin

@Veti said in Sourcing Linear Guides:

the robotdigg rail i have is defiantly of better quality than the other china rails i have.
i had a look under a microscope. the surface of the ball guides is smoother.
on the china clones i could see that the ball guide hole in the back was drilled from both sides as there was a noticeable joining in the middle. i did not see or at least it was not as obvious on the robotdigg rail.

Sorry to dig this old thread...

@Veti, which robotdigg rails are you refering to? They have many references, and I'm a bit lost...

Thanks,

@jens55 said in Layers do not stick together?:

I have the same problem with my pertinax (?) plate. I tried some guess none of them was strong enough to hold the plate.
The nice feature is the bendable layer, so you can pull it of the plate bend it slightly and the object pops off. Very convenient when you print large parts. But the price is a point.... And I have already some very very bad marks in it from tiny collisions with the nozzle. 😞
But the bed PEI surface for my new CoreXY is already on stock. 😉

Cheers, Chriss

@jens55

Indeed, that can not be the initial setup!
It works very nice for fine tuning and a very good method to waste 95% of the time to reach the last 5%. 😉

Cheers, Chriss

@theruttmeister Thanks for the tip! I'll add a sheet of that to my next McMaster order. Looks like it will cut well in the laser cutter too, which is a plus.

@arhi said in What happens to the temperature inside your nozzle?:

The E3D shown up in the 3D printing World during the time I was taking a break from 3D printing (finally got my first kid so 3d printing time disappeared 😄 ) so I didn't follow up their beginnings, but for sure they were not really the pioneers .....................

That's true - I once saw an interview with Sanjay and he was the first to admit that E3D stood on the shoulders of giants (Adrian Bowyer et al). Things have moved on and they now have some original ideas of their own but back in the day..... Like I said, my memory isn't what it was but I seem to remember a lot of hype about the "sticky filament" advantages of using a silicone sock.

UK is not that big and not that many ppl were involved in 3D printing back in the day, I kinda expect all you guy's are on first name basis 😄 😄 😄 but looks like UK is tad bigger than I remember 😄

Our land area is about the same as New Zealand, but whereas New Zealand has a population of about 6 million there are about 64 million of us in the UK. Most of the original RepRap pioneers have moved on.

@Phaedrux Thanks! 🤘

@DocTrucker said in PETG - Brittle?:

that the snow white behaves a little like a filled material

That's what I believe. Does not need to be called "snow white" but those white filaments that are "whiter" than the rest of them. But that's just a personal feeling I can't quantify it.

Alright, thanks, that makes sense. I can just tell you my anecdotal "evidence", namely that despite the supposedly too high layer height and the messed up infill, the spool holder is really strong (I tried to break it b/c I thought it might not be strong enough).

Regarding my original question: I think I understand now that you are probably both right! I just looked at my gcode at gcode.ws and I see that the full hexagons are indeed printed along two alternating diagonals (Which is what @Phaedrux wrote and rather I misunderstood them) + then it might make sense that with a high infill speed and too high layer height it just did not manage to squeeze out enough filament and thus the infill was sagging? (Still, perimeters are fine, but they are printed more slowly.)

Honeycomb and some of the other nice looking 3D patterns aren't especially strong and they print slowly because the direction keeps changing. If you want strong infill that prints fast, try grid or triangles

Thanks a lot! 👍

@deckingman said in .6mm e3dv6 stringing petg any ideas?:

@arhi There is another thread on these very forums about issues with PET-G. Some users have great success with certain brands. Other users report problems with exactly the same brand. I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that there is huge variability between batches of the same brand. Or it might be different colours......

Seen it. I'm starting to have fun now with this white "petg" from dasfilament .. if it was a standard 700-1000g roll I'd have more fun as 3kg roll was neither cheap nor easy to get to this godforsaken middle of nowhere but ... life

I'm giving up on the stringing fix for the white one, have enough parts to print where stringing is not an issue and .6 + speed = lot of stuff printed, aesthetics are not important here 🙂

@rajilpahuja said in Short to ground alarm on the duet board:

@bearer i think i should have but generally i never had issues with their stuff, so was relaxed on the checking part, but i guess need to check even if its from the most dependable companies

Unfortunately we do see a few infant mortality failures of the stepper driver chips, so it's probably a chip failure. But please check the wiring in case a couple of pins have been swapped over. There should be low resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the motor connector, low resistance between pins 3 and 4, but high resistance between 1 or 2 and 3 or 4.

Either way, assuming you bought both the Duet and the wiring loom from E3D, you are entitled to have your Duet replaced or repaired under warranty.

@Gduffy said in 3D Printer Extruder Stuttering:

I have rulled out wiring issues and stepper driver issues my moving my motors and driver's around accordingly.

How did you verify wiring?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Identifying_the_stepper_motor_phases

How did you test the motor and driver with swapping?

Does the motor work on another driver?

Does a different motor work on the same driver?

What board are you using and what firmware?

Have you set the motor currents correctly?

Have you tried controlling the motor from DWC instead of proterface?

How is your extruder configured? Please share your config.g

Nice!
How the nozzle lifting mechanism work ?

@Danal i understand now, i appreciated, thanks to both

@garyd9 said in silicone bed heater SSR... "Delixi"?:

I'll mount it directly to one of my delta's 2020 aluminum v-slot extrusions with t-nuts. There won't be full contact between the SSR and extrusion (because the extrusion is a v-slot, not a flat piece of metal. However, with < 5amps of power going into the SSR, I probably don't need any heat sink at all.)

I do the same. To improve contact with the extrusion I got the thermal pad they sell with it for a dollar. Seems to work really well.

The one thing I didn't like about this SSR is that the cover for the terminals leaves a fair amount of it actually semi exposed compared with the printed cover I was using before, so I used a bit of electrical tape just to cover it up more completely. I intended to CAD up and print a full cover but decided to just call it good.

One addition, today you can get "Nano Polymer Adhesive" from visionminer. That stuff is worth every penny. If that stuff existed back in the day I'd probably be still printing high temp materials, but without something like that using different glues to make first layer work became too expensive to continue. So if you are trying out any of the high temp stuff, don't wander around, get nano polymer adhesive!!!