@Veti said in Ringing\Ghosting on printed parts:

@MartinNYHC

keep in, measure the the distance of the peaks and calculate the frequency based on the speed printed.
then print the same object and judge if it improved the result.
if you change to many variables at once, you dont know which effect each had.

Turned out that 35 ist the right number for me. Ringing is much better now 😊

Now to the last issue: my Z axes problem. Just ordered metal mounts for my three SFU1204.

@Veti Very interesting video. Thanks for pointing this out.

@Phaedrux I'll let this thread die as I think we came to resolution on this, but did want to comment that I did not mean to imply compliance testing costs would be identical..

lol, they could play tetris on a atomic level soon?

@dc42 said in Delta printer - print bed leveling screws:

then spacers which rest on penny washers sitting on top of the frame.

i used nylon spacers for thermal isolation from the frame

It also now has firmware retraction support that wasn't there before

@Phaedrux Sorry for the late reply, you wouldn't believe how busy I've been.

Yep, I posted on E3D Bigbox forum without success but my last look for responses was 5 or 6 days ago, there may be some answers now !

I was thinking about pulling out the Duet equipment, putting RAMPS into Bigbocks in its place and selling each as separate entities. Duet and PanelDue as one and the printer as the other. I wonder which will sell first and for the most ... no, no need to wonder, the Duet will win hands down 🙂

So that's my next project, at the moment I'm ultra busy listing, packing and visiting the courier drop off shop. Once I've got rid of most of my gear I'll spend some time one the Bigbox modifications.

I mounted it to the wall directly over the printer. Medium size tube will work 😉

@Veti yes. I understood that high impendance will not work and there must be 1M resistor in parallel. But I have already switched to regular 100K Epcos and do not want to play with thermistors again without any success that others achieved. Just curious.

Always sad to see the old threads ;( and the amazing work of danal

On the 3Dprinters Discord, someone has tuned stacked Y splitters well enough that he can do 6 colors (white, 5 colors) in XY and 11 colors in Z(white, 5 colors, and 5 pastel colors by printing a white layer under a thin layer of the five colors).

As much as I like tool changers, you can get a lot of mileage out of the Y splitter approach if you build it well enough.

sample print

@Phaedrux that line is leftover from previous config. copy paste and me not paying attention. you are correct on 0,0 position

this is the rest of the code after homing x and y

;--blah blah blah home x and y. rest of code below ;-----Home Z Axis------ G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F7200 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X141 Y65.5 F7200 ; go to first probe point G30 ; home Z by probing the bed ; Uncomment the following lines to lift Z after probing G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F120 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position G90 ; absolute positioning ;------Return to right Rear Corner------ ;G1 X5 Y65.5 F7200 ; move to left G1 X5 Y180 F7200 ; move to home corner M566 X1200 Y1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M201 X1500 Y1500 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

@Phaedrux said in ToolChain:

you're just losing the ease of use of having components reused in many files.

if you have more or less static components I don't think it'll be an issue, but if you're doing many iterations on more than 10 files daily it will be time consuming and annoying which is what they call "added friction"

this has been done a few times, using metal welding wire as a substrate:

https://hackaday.com/2020/03/31/3d-metal-printer-uses-welding-wire/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odGEzRRDfxo&ab_channel=AdrianGerlich

some even professionally
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKkcBoSeUOg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKxatmf11D4

This method claims to be able to use any wire that heats enough electrically to melt:
https://www.digitalalloys.com/technology/
(so presumably any wire given a high enough voltage, current and thin enough wire) (and a non oxidising atmosphere)

but as @theruttmeister points out there are lots of challenges. For many metals you will want a non oxidising atmosphere as well.

@Veti said in Help needed - print quality issue:

when you grab the hotend with your fingers while the motors are powered, can you displace the hotend slightly?

Nope, it's tight.

@MartinNYHC said in Belt tension:

Just finished my BLV mgn cube build and now need to fine tune all the stuff. I'm wondering what the right belt tension is. Are there any rules of thumb?

There are just two rules of thumb for corexy machine belt tension:

Belts should be tight but not too tight. When you're finished tensioning the belts, the X and Y axes should be square.

If the belts are too tight, you'll be putting a lot of force on the pulley and motor mounts, and if they are stacked belt type that stand up like a fence post, they are liable to flex inward. The mechanism may not move smoothly and may bind depending on the type of linear bearings and the design of the pulley mounts. If you see pulleys tilting inward, you're putting too much tension on the belts (or you need to redesign motor or pulley mounts).

If the belts are too loose they may slip on the drive pulleys - that's MUCH too loose. If they are so tight that the mechanism won't move smoothly, they are too tight. You want them to be somewhere between those extremes, and just about anywhere between those extremes will work fine.

Before you tension the belts, the X and Y axes should be square. When you tension the first belt, they X and Y axes will usually be pulled out of square an amount that will vary depending on the flexibility of the X axis assembly, the type of bearings and guide rails used, and the absolute tension applied.

When you tension the second belt, it will also increase tension on the first belt that you already tensioned, so when you tension the first belt, leave it a little looser than you feel is sufficient. Then, when you tension the second belt, the first one will tighten up. You are done adjusting tension when the X and Y axes are square and the belts are tight but not too tight. Usually, the belts will be close to equal tension when you're done, but getting the axes square is the final indicator, not equal belt tension.

If the belt tension varies as you move the extruder carriage around, the pulleys guiding the belts are not positioned correctly, and a major redesign is in order.

@arhi
Solidworks has too much marketshare for a major company to use much else... cross platform work becomes a major problem very quickly.

That said, paid Fusion360 is very good value for people doing less complicated stuff.

But they always told their partners that the free versions would only continue until they had hit a big enough user base.
If they haven't already, expect the free 12 months deals to start drying up.

Plus their senior execs are much less maker focused than in the past.

@deadwood83 said in 3D printing is killing our Privacy!!11!:

They want to have a formal way to sue the pants off amateur CAD designers for infringing copyright / patents whether intentionally or not.

exactly .. trying to sneak DMCA under veil of "privacy protection"

It shouldn't in theory be necessary to adjust the DAA settings for speed changes, because the vibration frequencies don't change with speed. However, DAA doesn't currently account for jerk completely, so changing the jerk may well affect DAA. In particular, high jerk settings make DAA ineffective.