The last 3D Printing Today (episode #349) discussed some magic 'inexpensive silicon foam' that works great to wipe the nozzle.

It starts at the 17 minutes mark. (Clicon on the POD icon to start playing, or find them on your favorite podcast player).

https://threedprintingtoday.libsyn.com/3d-printing-today-349

I think they were referring to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-T-Shirt-Machine-Transfer-Cushion/dp/B07HNSWXDQ

Any chance you have the exact script your using or would be willing to walk me through the set up or even a prusasilcer config.ini file would be amazing.

I mostly use Inventor and Nastran in-CAD.

@CaLviNx I had more than 100 profiles in s3d for different materials, nozzles, extruders for my 4 printers when darn thing decided to corrupt them. From what I figured S3D keeps that all in windows registry. Was it the windows that corrupted the registry or S3D corrupted the data while writing no clue but I learned my lession and am now saving them externally. Not blaming S3D for that. Now, with S3D good thing is you can manually restore most of the settings (if not all) from the .gcode files if you saved those, IM on the other hand by default does not do that :(, you even have to manually add the comment for layer height so that RRF/DWC know what the layer height is.

Now as for IM, I understand you managed to tune it perfectly and that you liked it :), I'm sure you will get there again after few prints 🙂

If you did not open a thread on the reise3d forum, I suggest you do; not only so you figure out how to restore your profiles but also to warn others this crap can happen to them too, and maybe there's something IM could do in order for this to not happen again

Thanks guys. I'm curious about how it goes. Last parts arrive today so I think i have something to show at the weekend.

Hi Peter
Sorry I did not notice Your Reply earlier.
Yes, I wired them parallel , it works also serial. I have a Duet wifi. In my machine I changed the printhead to a bowden style CR-10. I also got some help from this blog:
https://passion-impression3d.jimdo.com/
I think Leapfrog has a rigid hardware but anything else needs rebuilding. I have no experience of HS printhead because Creator uses a massive straight drive solution.
Anyway the Duet Wifi is a good choise in my opinion. I have never done this kind of operation but thanks to the forum and instructions all went ok. Making changes to the configuration is easy with the web interface. I hope You get good results with Your machine.

Thanks for the answers,

i did use way too fast extrusion speed and too high temp.

Printing in 30m/s at 220C works alot better! Doing a new PA-tuning run as I got some things happening in the corners.

I think it's @mhackney that runs Sublime Publications.

Ah, thanks for explaining. Yes, I have seen that too. I use pressure advance to combat this issue. If the nozzle has drooled a bit, all bets are off 😞

Yeah I'm going to move the bearings to the middle and have some spaced. Looking at having a new design for that at either the end of this week or next depending on it I can fit it in or not.

@mrehorstdmd I've had it actually laying plastic fine with the head moving at those speeds, 0.2mm layers. It's using a volcano with a 0.8mm nozzle and a 48mm high torque stepper motor on the extruder. Moving XY is fine up to 350mm/s.

@tekstyle
Thanks for sharing. I like your little worm gear motor idea a lot, especially if it can be compact enough so the extruder is not more wobbly.

@Phaedrux This is true on S3D, unless they come out with the great update....
It still comes in 2nd on my list due to the fact that I've been using it for some years (very comfortable with it) and it has never really failed me.
But YES, if just starting - I would advise not to learn it as it seems DIW.

Since I need an extruder for each tool anyway I don't see a reason to go back to a bowden setup.

@arhi I must admit I was expecting the PP build plate to be poor at best for most materials but I think its brilliant, and cheap enough that I don't mind replacing it if I damage it.

Thanks for the tips, I'll do the usual tuning to dial in the PP but be sure to start on the side of not sticking enough.

I do a lot of prototyping both through my day job and on the side, I'm sure PP will come in handy at some point (living hinges for example). Im basically just trying to add as many materials options as I can, and to do this without the need for multiple different build plates or to have to use adhesives, tapes, hairspray etc.

@theruttmeister
Answered my own question:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFCo5P0iQAI

I'd check your drive lever. Looks like a fundamentally flawed design. No wonder there are lots of upgrades on the market.
If they had just made that hole 4mm and used a shoulder bolt...
Guess that's how you get to a $300 printer.

Rat Rig V-Core Pro
www.ratrig.com
Nice options available, like adding a 3. Z-axis for true leveling

I would think the plastic with the least water content would come out atop ignoring non plastic fillers?

Just a quick note that I am trying the support thing again and this time I have zero success with a zero thickness gap between interface layer and model. The issue is not one of separation but one of an unusable messy print.
The old thread is here :
[link text]https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/17225/multi-material-print(link url)