Which expansion board did you order? The first production run of the Duet 3 external driver expansion board is going through testing now. It provides differential outputs with 5V signal level, so suitable for boards needing either single-ended or differential inputs.

@whosrdaddy said in Duet 2 Wifi, DHCP / DNS questions:

it would be better if it would have DNS support built-in (ie register with an existing DNS server).

That is usually the job of the DHCP server, not the DHCP client; but it does seem the Duets does not send the M550 name as part of the DHCP request, so that could be an improvement - however it would still be up to the DHCP server to register with a DNS server.

oh okay.
Thanks for your time and diagnostics. I'll get that started ASAP.

@dc42 said in Duet 3 NEMA 23 Closed loop with Z axis also using Elec Brake:

@Mirage said in Duet 3 NEMA 23 Closed loop with Z axis also using Elec Brake:

I am definitely keeping a close eye on this new expansion board. My new XY gantry for NEMA23 is ready to take the beating! And clearpaths are in stock

This expansion board is not intended to drive devices such as ClearPath, because it does the closed-loop control on-board. It's intended for stepper motors with built-in encoders (but no control electronics), or stepper motors with our add-on encoder, or stepper motors driving axes equipped with linear encoders.

Oh shoot! that's news to me 😞
I was following this thread in the hope of an update soon:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/17780/clearpath-servos-with-1xd-expansion

So would taking the Step and Direction signal directly from the header pins of a Duet2 and level shift it to more than 5V be a better solution?

Edit:
Just realized that this thread refers to a completely different expansion board.

since the motors are 0.33 A, you could wire them in parallel.

0,33A * 4 * 0.75 = 1A

the duet driver can handle that.

Boy that machine is looking sweet! Well done!

@bearer said in FAN1 suddenly stop working:

Alternatively if you don't have hot air and don't mind being a bit of a savage ... you might be able to put a blob of solder on a sufficiently tip and just cover the whole part you want to remove with the blob of molten solder and when you lift the iron the part will stick to the surface tension of the solder blob.

Thank you for the advice. As I do not have a hot air gun, I may as well use this technique.

If the blob trick doesn't work, you can crank the savage factor up to 11 and try literally "decapitating" the poor little SOT23

I hope I don't have to get to that point. But let's see how it goes.

Embarrassed / Happy to say that I found a loose connection deep in the mines of moria electronics bay.

Below is the result of wiggling that cable... That cable is very much static during the print, but I guess the vibrations/heat expansion was enough to cause issues?

Lesson of the day: don't use bare wire in screw terminals! (not even "just temporarily to see if it works!")

Thanks all for bearing with me during my somewhat crazy tangents.

2020-10-19 21_14_36-Goliath.png

But you're saying it already does a purge for the first tool. What exactly is it doing and when is it doing it? Slicer start gcode? If it's already doing what you want at some point you just need to find where that gcode is so it can be reused/adapted to your other tool and probably moved into the tool change files since it would need to happen when going between t0 and t1 and t1 and t0 again and not just once at the start of a the print.

@dc42 That's something to remember. The new black flags work perfectly though.

I'm sorry, the documentation was out of date. I have corrected it. It now reads (changed part in italics):

The crosstalk factors define how much the motors interfere with each other. If they are all zero then it is assumed that the X motor affects only the angle between the proximal arm and the X axis, the Y motor affects only the angle between the distal arm and the proximal arm, and the Z motor affects only the nozzle height.

I write little programs in C that generate GCODE.

Thanks, I had wired it based on that... or so I had thought... turns out I assumed common wiring convention of red = Vcc and black = GND was silly of me. Dremel does it backwards.

IMG_4587.jpeg IMG_4590.jpeg IMG_4589.jpeg IMG_4591.jpeg

Actual bed is 330mm. Print area 300x300. It is the Wanhao bed.

I see your point, however I was getting excellent stable temperature until I got well into the long print. then the changes started. I have done the Hotend tuning and the stability is better but no as good as it was. perhaps there is some sort of break in.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Neopixel_and_DotStar_LEDs

you can build one yourself.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303618

its cheaper and more accurate.

I don't have any particular complain about the connectors, I'm pretty easy going on that regard. The very small beige ones are tedious to crimp but fortunately I've purchased the wire-kit.

I know it's already pretty small but what I would love is for it to be with one side 40mm max, even sacrificing a connector (or using a smaller one) or dropping the switches.

I'm doing a magnetic toolchange with very small heads and I'm having troubles positioning the toolboard (I'm actually thinking of using an expansion 3HC instead of the toolboard).

If you are using an AC mains heated bed controlled by a SSR, you could use the bed heater output to connect the extruder heater, and a different output to connect the bed SSR.

Hi.
I have tried 3.2beta2 and 3.2beta1 issue present in both of the versions.