I'm always amazed by the number of alternative packages to do "the same thing" along with instructions that sometimes work and sometimes don't. That tutorial takes a slightly different approach but better still WORKED FIRST TIME !!
I think most issues with deltas are also well covered, so there's not much to ask that hasn't been answered somewhere. My biggest issue with my delta is trying to make it do everything which is completely my fault and kind of on me to solve. My current issue is fixing flow rate discrepencies between 30 and 60mm/s , which is just super fine tuning the E3D titan bits. Which is only an issue because i moved from the compact but powerful stepper to the slimline to fit between the arms and shorten the flying extruder distance for better retracts. Which is only an issue for me since I'm using custom arm spacing and effector sizes to maximize stability over a 300mm plate, once again my fault lol.
I did not buy from this particular vendor, as the vendor I did buy from was via eBay and that vendor has disappeared. However, this vendor seems to be selling exactly the same product that I purchased through eBay. I can not vouch for this vendor but his product appears to be the same exact product. The case is same, the ferrules the same count and color and has same crimper.
The 'bootlace ferrule' crimper tool is Nr: HSC8 6-4, which is the same as that marked on my crimper!
My crimper works perfectly. I haven't tracked down the wire issue yet on my delta printer, but its on today's do-list. I am satisfied with the ferrule crimper's functionality, it works finely. Things happen.
To afford easier crimper usability, I replaced the Phillips cross-point ferrule size 'adjustment 'setting' screw with a 3/4" (0,75inch/19mm) long pan head screw, so that its easy to remove without having to resort to using a screw driver to change ferrule size. Screw in/out by forefinger & thumb, etc, eg, loose.
And without them, the only thing connecting the effector to the extruder is the bowden tube. Which is subject to force in the same direction from the extruder pushing filament through it. The springs are pulling it in the same direction, adding to the force on the bowden tube. By having the wire connecting them, and the tube a bit too long, it is now only subject to the force of the filament going through it.
This has another benefit(which i just noticed): The springs for the flying extruder don't reach their slack or near-slack position, so they maintain a more constant force on the extruder. They make less noise.
DC42...I went through the wiring, checked the connectors, the logical associations and the Voltages...I don't why but it seems to be working now? I did nothing, aside from laying in a hospital bed for the past 3 months (was supposed to be a 1 day in and next day out)?!!
But s.h.i.t howdy!! It seems to be working. Now I'm waiting for some good quality filament to arrive to start doing some serious testing.
Still can't cause the Smart-Effector (E3D-V6) hot-end to attain minumum PLA printing temperatures.
Multiple issues like that can be caused by a power issue, either a bad PSU or a bad connections between the PSU and the VIN terminals of the Duet. In the M122 report, what values are given for the min and max VIN voltage?
Ok, but what about the 11.5Vdc reference issue? What does that effect directly...its important enough to display its value on the DWC? Why is it reading low? If its not affecting anything, why care? Its either a SW issue or the chip is out of spec.
I don't understand why that reading is low. The tolerance on that reading is +/-5%, but that include the 3% tolerance of the 3.3V reference. If the 3.3V rail is accurate as your meter suggests, the reading should be within +/-2%. The accuracy depends on the ADC accuracy (which is normally very good once the firmware has run auto calibration on it) and the values of R60 and R61.
2nd Problem: EtherNet Disconnecting.
Ethernet disconnection issues are usually caused by either a bad Ethernet cable or an IP address conflict. Are you using a static IP address assignment, or DHCP? Which firmware version are you running?
I started from the resistance vs temperature table and used an online calculator out what B and C values fitted the values at three temperatures of interest - I forget what I used, but something like 25C, 180C and 250C.
Well, I'm sure I did it wrongly, and it looks a bit a messy but eventually I was able to unclog by accidentally employing the 'cold-pull' strategy, as everything else I tried ended with poor result. My fully customized kossel (was originally an AnyCubic, but none of the original parts exist yet it occupies the same physical space), employs a Bowden tube with a frame mounted 'extruder' driver located about 650 mm distance from the efffector. I can see the value of a direct drive in some instances.
I unhooked the Smart-Effector, and unscrewed the nozzle. I heated it with a hot-air rework tool. I pushed an accupuncture needle through it and it came out gooey but didn't unclog. After fiddling around for a time, I let it cool down, then reheated slightly, then pushed in a small length of PLA, let it cool down a bit and then was able to pull it out. That worked.
However, I chose to replace that nozzle it with a new nozzle. It was the nozzle that was shipped in the original AnyCubic kit of parts. I did not want to use the new authentic E3D-V6 hot-end nozzle for testing and calibration. The AnyCubic nozzle had crashed into the table many times over 18 months. So at least one part of the AnyCubic was useful, afterall. I learned a lot on that printer, I couldn't get it to work as a printer, but it was useful for learning how not to do things.
So now I'm in the market for good quality nozzles, there are many being hawked by vendors, such as, --stainless steel, titanium, ruby tipped ($400 ea), chrome plated copper...yada yada yada. When I have a better feel on things, I'll upgrade to something better than this bag of 0.4mm aperature brass units that some vendor sent me a while back. But I'll go through them first.