Thanks as always for your time Gents.

Much appreciated.

Regards,

Paul

@PaulHew said in Will not reliably home on Y - Broken cable?:

Could the SD card being flaky cause my Homing issues?

I suppose it's possible. Corruption of the homey.g files.

Could also just be a consequence of estopping so many times while the sd card was being access (reading the homing files?)

Pure speculation on my part.

Try a new card and try running a new wire for Y.

Lol, it seems like once again I got fooled by a clone.
So I did a continuity test and found out that the pwm pin number 7 isn't connected to anything. So it'll be easy, I'll just have to solder a wire from it.

Also, while I'm at it, here are some prints I did with the printer during the past months:

Some large molds to pour silicone:
IMG_20210203_193015.jpg

Fairings for my electric motorbike:
IMG_20210301_214618.jpg

IMG_20210301_230103.jpg

IMG_20201216_115503.jpg

And also for fun a giant moai head:
IMG_20210210_081917.jpg

IMG_20210210_102649.jpg

Each of those prints took less than 20 hours. As you can see, the printer works very well, I havent' got any issue with it since I repaired the fried motherboard.

My next print should be much bigger and take around 36 hours, it'll be a really huge mold to make the bike's fairings out of carbon fiber. The mold should make around 3kg of PLA. Got myself a few 5Kg spools fot that job.
But before doing that, I'd like to test and possibly install the closed loop system, in order to make the printer as realiable as possible.

Hi!

I'm converting an old Therwood machine into a 3D printer with a Typhoon head / ClearPath motors.

Would it be possible to make the 5V change at the ribbon cable going into the expansion board?

Cut 3 and 43 and connect them to pin 1 (5V) ? Thereby running the exansion board at 5V? Are the ICs on the exp board 5V tolerant and would that config work with clearpath SDHP motors? Or Shall I simply do the above and wire 3 servos to the 5V heater pin?

8e6dc9e2-f322-4431-8cc3-9c8746520f90-image.png

This may be helpful then.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Test_and_calibrate_the_Z_probe

@Tricep-terry, if you connect the 100 ohm resistor supplied with the daughter board to the two middle places of the terminal block in place of the sensor, what reading do you get?

IMG_5035.JPG

Printing Size 500 x 500 x 700 mm

@Rushmere3D said in E3D Titan tool changer [Blog]:

Prusa MMU2

That MMU2 is a funny thing. Reminds me a bit of a photoshopped 5x Wade extruder I published 2015:

5x-wade_small.jpg

The interesting part is the ramming and the cooling moves I hope to have the chance to try out without having a MMU2.
But first off all, I have to disassemble my hotend to remove the Jam and do some failure cause research.

he is not running rrf3

THIS is a Cura configuration for a SeeMeCNC dual extruder "Y" setup.

Maybe it will help you get Cura configured.

@hackinistrator Correct. I didn't finish getting a more polished CAD mockup into diagram form, just was setting up the repo to support discussions I was having in realtime on Discord.

712b1cb3-c82b-43d6-9f06-6285754c35a2-image.png

Here's a bit more complete rendering of the idea, with more of the gaps filled in and specific ideas about how to approach the interconnections and belt routing. Hope that's a little clearer.

@fcwilt Don't use those springs. If the belt tension varies and you need a spring to maintain tension, the belts/pulleys are not properly positioned. It's better to fix the problem than to use springs.

One thing that people seem to understand about lead screws and linear guides is that the screws need to be parallel to the guides. For some reason, a lot of people think that belts can be positioned in strange relationships to the guides and everything will work just fine. It's not true, of course. The belts need to be parallel to the guides, too.

More specifically, the portion or segment of the belt that attaches to the part that slides on the linear guide has to be parallel to the guide, just like a leadscrew.

If the belt is not parallel to the guide, the tension will vary depending on the position of the slide, and the slide will not move in constant increments. That will lead to distorted prints whose size and shape will vary depending on where they are printed on the bed.

If the belt is positioned properly, the tension will not vary with slide position. Each incremental movement of the drive pulley will translate to a specific, equal movement of the slide regardless of where the slide is located along the guide rail. There is no need for springy tensioners.

Why has this thread been marked as solved?

Using M208 to set 0,0 or G92 in a homing file are both valid ways of doing it. The important thing is that the lead screw positions in M671 are relative to the 0,0 point.

The points used for probing should get the probe as close to the lead screws as possible.

@Thunder said in Z calibration offset:

Do you mean in the home all section? Sorry I am a little slow when programing 🙂

I don't know where you create the height map.

I have a pair of files that I created called mech_comp_map_create.g and mesh_comp_map_load.g.

The first is invoked from a DWC macro as I create the height map manually.

The second is invoked from another file that I created called print_begin.g which is invoked by the slicer at the start of a print.

The essential commands in mech_comp_map_create.g are below

G90 G1 Xaaa Ybbb ; move the z probe to the center of the bed G30 ; set the Z=0 datum G29 ; probe the bed and create the height map

The essential commands in mech_comp_map_load.g are below

G90 G1 Xaaa Ybbb ; move the z probe to the center of the bed G30 ; set the Z=0 datum G29 S1 ; load the height map

The important thing to notice is that G30 must be used before creating (G29) or loading (G29 S1) the height map.

Frederick

As far as I gathered, if it displayed the issue, it had the old firmware. Specifically, what it looked like was it would trigger twice -- once around 8-11 mm away, and once at the proper trigger height of ~2-3 mm. You could see it as a sort of intermittent illumination at the 8-11 mm distance. I don't think you could actually check the firmware directly without an AVR programmer, which I didn't happen to have. I solved the issue by buying a genuine part. 🙂

I will carve out some time to update my files this weekend. I'm now hosting at PrusaPrinters because Thingiverse is too unreliable. Will ping here when I get them up!

-j

@pawPrinter do you have link about the magnets you use ?
and do you think an external counter weight can replace the spring mecanism ?

thanks